Update:



Just put a 12X diode in my blu-ray 'Ice Box' TEC build...

The build uses a Meredith mounting block, which has a 1/2" hole for the module, so instead of using a Meredith module (which does not have a 'pressed in' design for the diode), I made a 1/2" copper module so that I could have a pressed in diode.

The custom copper module is of course threaded for my 405-G-1 glass lens assembly.

1/2" Copper modules available here!
FS: Custom Copper Module - AixiZ Threads






I have it set at a fairly conservative setting for longevity...

350mA's / 480mW's

Here's a video of it cutting a wood match in half:

The blue light on the side is the Li-Po alarm. It changes colors as the batteries get lower and lower...

LiPo Alarm color code:

Bright blue - Full charge
Cyan - Very good
Green - Good
Yellow/Amber - Low warning
Red - Batteries low (70%)









Here is a tutorial of my 'Ice Box' TEC build... (before I upgraded it to a 12X)

I thought I would condense the step by step portion of the other thread into a ‘tutorial’ of this TEC build… (Now housing my latest 12X diode)

A guy could easily build a similar design using cheaper parts. (like AixiZ module instead of Meredith, different drivers, different batteries with no need for a LiPo alarm)

The peltiers are cheap. So is the box, fan, and heatsink. The big expense is because I want to use FlexDrives, twin LiPo's with alarm, and a 405-G-1 glass lens with a 12X diode...

Here are some links for you!

Peltiers: peltier junction, Business Industrial. Great deals on eBay!

Blower Fan (sucks from the bottom and blows out the side): 40MM 5VDC CENTRIFUGAL BLOWER | AllElectronics.com
(this fan fits inside the Peltier heatsink with very little modification)!

Heatsink: SOLD-OUT | AllElectronics.com

Meredith page: Meredith Instruments

Box: Digi-Key - HM151-ND (Manufacturer - 1590B)

Batteries: Thunder Power 1320-2s Pro Lite

LiPo Alarm: Spectrum LiPo Battery Monitor (WRL-SPECL)



….Starting the Blu-ray Ice Box now and I will show some pictures if anybody ever wants to follow this project...


The heatsinks that came with the peltiers, will be used as a 'base' for the Ice Box build.


Overview of box and base parts with fan and heatsink.


Heatsink fins through the bottom... I put some holes in the box, as well as the lid. I figure that some ventilation couldn't hurt right?


The fan fits nicely inside the peltier heatsink/base piece with very little modification! Just use some double sided tape...


The other base piece will house the switch and main wiring harness. As well as the LiPo alarm.


It's great how the base pieces are such a nice fit for the box!



….Next steps! - Here's some more pictures as this new build progresses...


Dual FlexDrives mounted with easy access to the pots!


Here you see the 7805 regulators. There are a couple of things I would like to mention here...

* I figure that probably just one regulator could have been used to power the two drivers as well as the fan, but I found them to be a nice way to mount the Flexdrives! They are cheap enough anyway...
* Notice the thin Mica sheet in between the peltier and the 7805 regulators. (to give a little insulation there)
* Notice also the little heatsink on top of the metal (heatsink) parts of the 7805 regulators... I put this there for two reasons, to give some more heatsinking for the regulators, and also to further 'stabilize' the build, linking the two drivers together and making the mount strong. (The metal back/heatsinks on the 7805 voltage regulators, are 'ground', so they can be connected together. Since the drivers are running in parallel from the same battery supply, they are already electrically connected)


The Meredith mounting block has the set screw on the side. This won't do, because when it's all together, you can't get to the set screw. So, just a little modification to the block...


The 5 volt fan will be given it's own regulator too! Might as well, they are not expensive.

Note: At the finish of this project, I found that using 3 separate 7805 voltage regulators robbed too much of my supply voltage. So, the fix was to run only two separate voltage regulators. One for the Peltier driver, and the other one runs both the fan, as well as the driver for the LD. Works perfectly!



….I just finished up the wiring. Seems to be the most tedious part...



Build tip: Beam alignment! Before you adhere the peltier and assembled parts onto the peltier heatsink, I recommend...

* Setting the diode driver to a low current, like 80mA's or so.
* Having the supply leads to the LD driver available to test. (ends striped)
* Adjust focus, and position module with set screw.

Now... Once everything is ready, mix the Arctic Silver adhesive and spread a thin layer on the heatsink.

Hold the Ice Box against a wall, and pointing toward a corner, use a single 3.0 volt lithium battery (or 3.6 ), to light up the LD so you can make sure your assembly is glued on straight by checking to see if the beam is 'straight', and the dot hits the corner at where it should. You will have maybe 5 minutes to make this adjustment before the Arctic silver adhesive sets up.

You not only want the beam to be straight, but you want to make sure that the module protrudes through the box, without touching the box. As the module is cooled, but the box is not.

(other adjustments in beam alignment can be made by simply loosening the module set screw, and turning the module)




….Just got it all buttoned up!





I have my peltier set at 546mA’s, the fan draws about 192mA’s...

Armed with this information, I am going to go ahead and do some adjustments in my wiring to disable one of the 7805 regulators. Then I will bring leads from the 7805 voltage regulator at the fan, to the FlexDrive for the LD…

Schweet success! The peltier driver has it’s own 7805 voltage regulator, and the LD driver and the fan share another now.


It is very stable with my twin 7.4 volt LiPo packs in parallel. I did a 5 minute run at 186mA's. (PHR diode) It was rock steady at 166mW's. (AixiZ acrylic lens - back opened) The temperature of the block DROPPED 2.5 degrees during the 5 minute test run! It was noticeably cooler to the touch.

Awesome!



….I'm now the proud father of healthy twins! I'm going to leave the settings as they are for a while and see how it goes...

I am amazed at the result of the 5 minute test run of the blu-ray Ice Box @ 186mA's! (PHR diode) To go for 5 minutes at this current, and the temperature of the Meredtih mounting block actually got LOWER! This will be the future home of a 12X diode!

For now, the PHR is giving a steady 209mW's through my 405-G-1 glass lens modification!
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_...ad.php?t=22497

The Long open can red is giving 316mW's through the Meredith glass lens...



I know.... all the labels and stuff look kind of 'cheesy'. But it's important information to keep track of. This way, I don't have to go looking for it...



….Beam shots!




I should have used a tripod for the camera though...
Jay





Here's a 20' match light video from my red 'Ice Box' laser...







Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!

thanks for compiling all this for us!

its a DAMN good build!

Your welcome! And thank you for those good words of yours...

I know that you are working on a TEC project of your own! Looking forward to seeing some pictures of it. 8-)
Jay

Very nice tutorial!
If i wasn't such a noob i would attempt to build one, lol

Surely this has to worthy of being stickified!

Thanks man! It is a fun and rewarding project. Perhaps cOld will sticky it for future easy access...
Jay

Nice job, you ought to sell some too. 8-)

Thanks!
Well... the Peltiers, fan and heatsink for the fan are all cheap items. If a guy wanted to use an AixiZ module, different batteries (no LiPo alarm), different drivers, etc... he could build one for a very reasonable cost.

But the way I showed it here, the parts alone are over $300 dollars. Time involved for this build? I lost track! Lol... I would guess at least 10 or 12 hours.

That said, it is probably better suited for a DIY project. 8-)
Jay

Wow, very impressive!

Very impressive! I can see that I will have a lot of room to expand in this hobby.

-Brett

Thanks for the props guys!

With a project like this, it seems like there is always something to learn...

If you read through this tutorial, you will see that I found out that I had to go with two 7805 voltage regulators instead of 3. Since I'm no electronics pro, I found this out only by 'trial and error'.

What I'm saying here, is that going through a build like this, will teach you many things. When I built my first one, I had lots of advice from helpful forum members. I took their advice, and tied it in with ideas of my own. I found this to be a very rewarding project! And I am sure you will too!
Jay

Jay -- Nice work!!! Don't start a fire :-)

Mike

wow talk about ressurecting a dead thread

I like to think that the thread was not dead, but that people still looked at it for a tutorial! I mean even if you don't follow it exactly, I believe there are some good ideas that can be used in other projects...

Thanks for the compliment Mike!
Jay

It's a nice project to build anyway.

One thing i wonder about: does anyone know where to get mouting blocks for aixiz modules, such that they can be mounted on a flat surface like the tec?

Hey BENM, You can try here. They are $15 each
you have to scroll to the middle of the page and click "HS-1a, Green Laser Module Heat Sink"

http://www.z-bolt.com/green-laser-line-generator.html#

I just got a buttload of heatsinks and thermal paste, I'm gonna make a box laser now

hi, im making a similar build as this and was wondering if there was a minimum temperature a laser diode can run at? is it possible to kill it by getting very cold?

also does anyone know if the amperes going to a peltier need to be regulated or will it only draw how much it needs?

thanks

Well, I don't know a lot about the peltiers, but I just went by trial and error...

I found that it is better to use a driver, because you can adjust the amount of cooling, depending on what power your diode is.

Very important to use a fan and heatsink for the peltier...

From what I have read, you can damage the diode if it gets too cold.

my only problem with using a driver is that it would be have to be high rated as im using an external power source possibly. it could put out upward of 10amps... not sure if i should just let it draw that much current or attempt to find a smaller supply

no problem, ive found a smaller supply which is 2amps which should be low enough. thanks for the help
hugo.

Hope it goes well...

Make sure to show your build!

lol i will... if it works haha

Update:



Just put a 12X diode in my 'Ice Box' TEC build...

The build uses a Meredith mounting block, which has a 1/2" hole for the module, so instead of using a Meredith module (which does not have a 'pressed in' design for the diode), I made a 1/2" copper module so that I could have a pressed in diode.

The custom copper module is of course threaded for my 405-G-1 glass lens assembly.






I have it set at a fairly conservative setting for longevity...

350mA's / 480mW's

Here's a video of it cutting a wood match in half:

The blue light on the side is the Li-Po alarm. It changes colors as the batteries get lower and lower...

LiPo Alarm color code:

Bright blue - Full charge
Cyan - Very good
Green - Good
Yellow/Amber - Low warning
Red - Batteries low (70%)

Looks like a cool project!

One thing though: it seems the voltage regulators are bolted to the cold side of the TEC?

Looking great as always, i have no doubt that diodes gonna last a good long time in there