Stripping Flashlight board, but want to keep some features.

[AaronT]

A - My soldering skills are basic, I've watched the "101" and searched (using the google bar) to see what advice I could find, I was left with (strip everything) or stuff specific to particular hosts.

B - Of all the info I'm learning the drivers/boards/circuits are the most complicated. I barley understand the diff between bucking/boosting and I haven't learned how a linear driver works.

In short I'm learning, learning quick, and I can no longer resist tearing stuff apart, buying flashlights/hosts and trying to stick with learning on the cheap parts first.

So to my problem.

I tore down this 14500 "host" and now I need to strip the board so it can serve as a direct current board for a driver.

This board has a clicky switch and a 3.5mm 5v charge port I want to keep.

Is it really as simple as just stripping everything but the port and switch?

 

[dden4012]

Nope lol. Thats my bet.

 

[RedCowboy]

If it's a low current switch that signals a chip then it won't be useful unless you using a control chip.

You can keep the charging jack but if you end up using a tail cap switch then it won't charge.

 

[AaronT]

If it's a low current switch that signals a chip then it won't be useful unless you use a relay or control chip.

You can keep the charging jack but if you end up using a tail cap switch then it won't charge.

If it is a low current switch, it and the chip, would just fry right? Is there a way to determine this? I do have a multimeter.

I wouldn't mind the challenge of modding the chip if I can determine exactly how to do it. Turning it into a proper driver would be great but I thought to keep it simple at first.

These skills I'm learning by destroying sub $5 parts will save me from destroying $50+ parts.



I assume if I were to make my own drivers that a multimeter would NOT be adequate to test it?

 

[RedCowboy]

Liners drivers are simple but less efficient.

Switching drivers are more efficient but you need some protections for the diode, laser diodes don't like spikes such as those often seen with DC to DC converters that you can buy for cheap but spike when you shut them off and at start up, plus the readily available laser specific drivers have reverse protection and overcurrent protection, plus others such as ramp up caps and bleed downs.

The information is out there, but you will have to do some reading, start with the basics and go from there, or start with what you want and learn backwards everything you don't know.

>>>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linear_regulator

Open the PDF below and start reading, it's not something I can explain in a few sentences.


http://www.thompsonrd.com/ieee_laser_driver.pdf

For a linear I used to use the LM317 and larger, but you waste in heat the excess power.

 

[AaronT]

Liners drivers are simple but inefficient.

Switching drivers are more efficient but you need some protections for the diode, laser diodes don't like spikes such as those often seen with DC to DC converters that you can buy for cheap but spike when you shut them off and at start up, plus the readily available laser specific drivers have reverse protection and overcurrent protection, plus others such as ramp up caps and bleed downs.

The information is out there, but you will have to do some reading, start with the basics and go from there, or start with what you want and learn backwards everything you don't know.

Open the PDF and start reading, it's not something I can explain in a few sentences.

>>>>>http://www.thompsonrd.com/ieee_laser_driver.pdf

http://www.thompsonrd.com/ieee_laser_driver.pdf

Thanks red, and this is right where I'm at.

I just can't wait to make solder fly and so I'm here... Hoping for a shortcut that will also lead to me making a step by step thread.

 

[94Z28]

I can link to you to some solder paste, CCBoost part list and boards from OSHPark if you want to try and make some low current boost drivers, it's really cheap (like 5$ in parts per board, maybe 10$ w/ shipping)... the paste and syringe is where the price goes up. Also, you can solder pads with a very fine tip solder iron, or using a toaster oven to reflow the boards.

I've made about 10 BenBoost drivers all in the 1100mA range in the last 3 days, I cannot believe how simple it is to solder surface mount in this toaster oven once I did the temp control stuff in arduino to actually handle a profile....

You could also just set to max temp, and monitor with a K-Type thermocouple or a IR gun... or buy the 180$ reflow work station (hot air powered).

 

[AaronT]

I can link to you to some solder paste, CCBoost part list and boards from OSHPark if you want to try and make some low current boost drivers, it's really cheap (like 5$ in parts per board, maybe 10$ w/ shipping)... the paste and syringe is where the price goes up. Also, you can solder pads with a very fine tip solder iron, or using a toaster oven to reflow the boards.

I've made about 10 BenBoost drivers all in the 1100mA range in the last 3 days, I cannot believe how simple it is to solder surface mount in this toaster oven once I did the temp control stuff in arduino to actually handle a profile....

You could also just set to max temp, and monitor with a K-Type thermocouple or a IR gun... or buy the 180$ reflow work station (hot air powered).

I really like Hiemals drives, I'll ask for his OK/Help in duplicating them.



What do I need to be able to test the drivers and make sure they work like they should? All I really have for electrical testing is a multimeter.