Is soldering necessary?

Exerd said:

While on the subject of diode sockets, they sound interesting for me. I can mount a diode test block, and run many diodes through the test block quickly to test and plot each diode, without needing to solder every diode being tested.

I'm ordering a mounting block and diode sockets from Thor, but I have a question. There is a tool listed there which pulls the sockets off of the diodes. Now, is there also a tool which presses the sockets onto the diodes? If these are a tight fit, it seems risky without a proper tool to push them on...

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Seems like a lot of trouble and expense for something that can be done WAY cheaper. If all you are doing is testing new diodes, a standard breadboard is more than sufficient. Then you won't have to worry about the fit. The same rules apply to using a breadboard as apply to sockets (never touch the diode while in operation, keep test burns short - no heatsinking, apply and increase voltage and current slowly) and they can be used for all kinds of other electronics work. With harvested diodes the sockets might be better suited to the shortened pins, but the solder remnants might screw things up completely.

hey there, Im reposting this from my origional from kenom's kryton groove page.. seems to have relevance here.

i picked up a couple of 2 pin connectors from frys electronics,

2-Pin Connector with Header | CNMAT

gotta find the one with the right diameter but it'll fit right onto the diode pins without any mess or soldering near the diode. only problem is that it might come off with a little force i remedied that with a little electrical tape or shrink tubing.

*later response to a question.

As for the connector, a little residual solder doesn't hurt the connector, in fact i have a very slight coating on the pins of my diode for a little tighter fit, and the slight movements issue can be easily solved using electrical tape or a more recent find, a little silicone glue... a small bead under the connector holds it in place no problems.

as for the corrosion, i doubt youll have any issues, these are the same type of connectors used in toys, calculators, RC's, and computers.. given the stuff that these other things would go through i'm thinking that by the time the connector corrodes your laser or components will be shot long before then.

at any rate jsut saying what ive found to work nicely, As an alternative bonus, if you have multiple heads for the kryton or, for jay rob's builds, extra modules with the diodes pressed in, the connector makes for a simple swap out for the diodes.. not saying its practical but the same connector can be used in a similar fashion for driver swapping as well, or if you have a BR and a A140 working at the same amperage