Problem with soldering

Hi,
I have a big problem with soldering - I already two times tried to solder to driver - first time it was a laser diode and the second time it was a part fell from violet laser's driver. in those two incidents I just in mistake connected with solder two dots which shouldn't be connected (they were really close to each other). The problem is that the solder just doesn't go off! I just try to take it with the soldering machine and then I try to move it on the driver board so that there won't be connection but it just stays in the same place!
What can I do with this problem?

And another question - I really don't remember if the sharp edge of the soldering machine was hot when I turned on the soldering machine for the first time but now it doesn't get hot at all so the solder just accumulate in the side of the soldering machine!
The sharp edge can melt solder only when I push hard.
Is this happens in all soldering machines?
Or do I have to replace my soldering machine?

Thanks,
Yuval

If you will click the "diode" link in my sig, you will find links to soldering tutorials.

How many watts is it? If youre removing solder I recommend a solder sucker. They are cheap and do a veey good job. I would also recommend sone sort of flux when soldering. Helps clean the surface, solder flow, and a nice shiney look. It should melt really quick. You should aldo drag your iron through a wet sponge and then tin the tip with solder.

yuval12321 said:

The problem is that the solder just doesn't go off! I just try to take it with the soldering machine and then I try to move it on the driver board so that there won't be connection but it just stays in the same place!
What can I do with this problem?
Yuval

Click to expand...

You need soldering flux. Flux is a paste, like glue or epoxy that you apply through a syringe to the area you wish to solder. Flux attracts hot liquid solder to where it needs application, that is its only purpose. Once you use flux when soldering on a difficult level you'll find yourself struggling a LOT less

Soldering flux - what is and how to

:beer:

This method is also used when making wire-to-wire solders with small wire
Soldering diode pins takes a fraction of a second

Pre-tin BOTH the pins and the wire or solder pads

Use a small bit of flux on BOTH the pins and the wires/pads BOTH for the pre-tin and the final solder joint

I don't care if you use rosin core solder. USE THE FLUX!

Use a set of "extra hands" to align the pin with the wire/pad.

Make sure that they are side-by-side, touching, and secure

Get a small bit of solder on the tip of your soldering iron

"Touch" the melted solder on your iron to the pin to wire/pad joint

The solder will all flow together in a fraction of a second.

I recommend that you also use some shrink tubing to protect and reinforce the joint



You DO NOT "heat the joint" as with other solder jobs
You DO NOT place the solder source anywhere near the solder job

Only the melted solder on the tip of your iron should approach the pin to wire/pad joint
An exception to the above, is when soldering a wire/pin “through” a hole
If you are soldering a wire or pin through a hole, you only pre-tin the wire/pin
You DO still use a bit of flux in the hole
You have to let the iron sit a bit longer to heat the hole and allow the solder to flow
It still should be less than a couple of seconds

If you are new to soldering, I recommend that you get yourself an old PCB and some scrap wire (etc.). Practice the above procedure until you can get a good solder in a fraction of a second.

Peace,
dave

Thanks you all very much for commenting!

The problem with flux is that it is really hard to apply it in such tiny places (At least it is hard to apply it with the flux I have). Can you suggest me a flux that is easier to apply? What about pen flux? Is it good?

Anyway, how can I use it to clean solder from a joint in the driver board which should not be connected? It's just don't get away when I use soldering machine without any other tool and I've just burned a driver board trying to unsolder a joint.

And tell me, if there is it ok if I connect batteries and turn on the driver/laser when there is flux on the driver or the laser diode?

The flayminpyro has some flux thats easy to apply to small areas. To clean solder from a joint you need to first hwat it until it bexomes liquid and then use a tool known as a solder sucker to slurp up the solder. Most of the flux will evaporate with the heat but you should still clean it up.

Speedy78 said:

The flayminpyro has some flux thats easy to apply to small areas. To clean solder from a joint you need to first hwat it until it bexomes liquid and then use a tool known as a solder sucker to slurp up the solder. Most of the flux will evaporate with the heat but you should still clean it up.

Click to expand...

I didn't find "flayminpyro flux" can you show me the product?
And I found two solder suckers but one of them looks just as a soldering machine:
Antistatic Vacuum Soldering Desoldering Solder Pump Sucker Gun Iron Removal Tool | eBay
1× Solder Removal Vacuum Desoldering Pump Sucker | eBay
Which to buy?Or should I buy some else solder sucker?

Edit:
I noticed now that the solder sucker I thought to be a soldering machine is actually two tools in one page - solder sucker and soldering machine. Do you think this sodlering machine worth something? (It is only 3$)

I would just get the sucker. Also flaminpyro is a member here. Look him up and pm him about his flux.

FlamingPyro's stuff is good

I use a paste flux

To get it onto/into small areas, I just use the point of a toothpick

Peace,
dave

But one thin layer of flux would do the job? If I get pen flux will it do the job?
I'll contact the member right now
And do you know also what can I use to paste laser diode to heatsink so it won't fall if the solder falls?
Thanks!

You normally would use a thermal paste in between the diode modual and haet sink to fill in the micro-scopic gaps. The heat sink should have a drilled and tapped cross hole with a tiny set screw to hold the diode module in place.
Good luck.

Really quickly - if you have to push the iron into the solder to melt it then either the iron isn't hot enough or its dirty. You should be using around 350 to 375 degrees C for most work.

Also, lead solder is MUCH easier to learn to solder with than lead free solder.

What solder gun power should I use?