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Please Help Diagnose This Battery Problem!!

Toaster

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This is an issue I have only with Larry DFWs Un protected cells LG2600. If you know what this is, please let me know. The diode is flashing and wont use the whole battery. Thanks

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Kevlar

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I actually had an issue with some batteries I got from Larry DFW as well. Except I think mine were Samsung 2800s. I never told Larry about it, I just chalked it up as a loss. I thought maybe I got a bad set because I never saw anyone else with a similar problem. My cheap DX ultrafire 2400s did a much better job than the Samsungs. I was using them in my 1.1W 445nm build. It was the same problem you had.

Have you talked to Larry about it?
 
Toaster

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Yeah He was like "I will replace them", which is good, but I dont know the issue. Were you using a microboost as well?

My pot went to 1.1A, Which was when The flexes were out so I was like "Ah well this is high enough"

I thought these would be some Kickass out of this world cells but sadly just a :/ For now.
 
D

Danielxv

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Even if the battery is not protected it can have some diodes, may be they're bad (If it has), let the multimeter for longer, see if it is oscillating. If possible test it with an LED and a multimeter between it (all positives together and all negatives together).
 
Toaster

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Sorry What? Its on both of the batteries so its not a defect in just one. Its gotta be something else... I guess its just the batts. Anyone else got an issue? With these.
 
Kevlar

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Toaster said:
Yeah He was like "I will replace them", which is good, but I dont know the issue. Were you using a microboost as well?

My pot went to 1.1A, Which was when The flexes were out so I was like "Ah well this is high enough"

I thought these would be some Kickass out of this world cells but sadly just a :/ For now.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was using a microboost maxed out at 1.2A (all three jumpers set).
 
Toaster

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Damn, K. Well I am looking to try it with a Flex build before I call it quits.
 
Cyparagon

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That thing is tiny and must get damn hot. I'm amazed it hasn't died yet from leaving it on for a whole minute at the time.
 
Coherent Light

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Looks like the driver is overheating. It's possible that Larry's batteries are providing higher current, but that's a long shot. You could check the current for both sets of batteries to see if that's happing.

My 0.02
 
Toaster

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Like I said, The issue is not present with the AW batteries. So I REALLY doubt its driver heat.

Why are you amazed its ok? Its an All copper build. When ambient temp is ~50º F and below, its runtime is 100% :D

I thought batteries only supplied current as it was needed. But I guess I was wrong there....
To test current, how does one go about that? Thanks
 
DTR

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That slow blink is the driver overheating. It is different than a current issue. If the driver is getting insufficient current it will pulsate rapidly.:beer:
 
Toaster

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Why does it only happen with these batteries then? And not the AWs?
 
DTR

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I will not speculate to that but the video you posted shows the driver over heating. I have seen many flex and microboost drivers over heat and I have seen them with connection issues or insufficient current and there is a difference between what happens. It is always the same. Slow blinking is the driver's thermal protection kicking in and a very fast pulsation is the driver receiving insufficient current. I would focus on dealing with the heat issue.:beer:


Also if one battery is charged to 4.2V and the other 4.1V the microboost is probably working harder with the 4.1V unit to boost the voltage and will most likely overheat quicker. Try charging both to 4.2V and test again for a difference.
 
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Toaster

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Well the blinking speeds up the longer I let it sit.....

So I know what you think the blinking is, but why does it ONLY happen with these batteries?
 
Kevlar

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DTR said:
I will not speculate to that but the video you posted shows the driver over heating. I have seen many flex and microboost drivers over heat and I have seen them with connection issues or insufficient current and there is a difference between what happens. It is always the same. Slow blinking is the driver's thermal protection kicking in and a very fast pulsation is the driver receiving insufficient current.
Click to expand...

I'd like to clarify my problem was a fast blinking, current issue.
 
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