PHR dorcy JR build

LordKaramazov · Feb 12, 2010

Ok, after almost 3months of having to wait for a PHR and a dorcy to arrive, i got everything running, and realized the dark horse dorcy heatsink (not the full body one, the laser head only one) doesnt fit that well in the dorcy, and its kinda loose, but if one is care focusing to infinity or a dot, it wasnt a problem (well, i had to redo almost every connection, cuz i had wires that were too long, and some of them snapped).

well i was trying to get a beamshot, but not quite respecting duty cicles, and had it running for almost a minute. its cold out here, and the flashlight wasnt very hot.
I turned it off, and unscrewed the lens a bit, but when i turn it on again, one flash, and no more lasing. And this happens all the time, one flash of laser, then just a really faint light, and the PHR or the flexdrive is "squeaking"(dunno which one, but id go for flexdrive).

So, is the diode dead or not, cuz its strange for it to lase for like 0.3s and then nothing.

Thanks in advance
José Andrade

chipdouglas · Feb 13, 2010

its probably a loose connection somewhere. i had a similar problem on a 6x and it broke a few cycles later. take it all apart and check your solder joints before its too late.

LordKaramazov · Feb 13, 2010

just one question, what kind of wire do u guys usually use?? The ones with only 1 copper wire inside (usually those are used to connect stuff on breadboards) or the ones with lots of very thin wires.
im using the first ones and they are always snapping. Not the solder, the wires...and they do offer a lot to resistance to movement..

Lonewolf · Feb 16, 2010

Look in the Laser Pro Shop for -- FS: Laser Parts -- Flaminpyro has some silicone wire that is the best. Very flexable, easy to work with, and easy to solder.

daguin · Feb 16, 2010

Someone else just posted a similar problem. The result of his investigation was that he still had the stock driver in between the flexdrive and the battery.

Peace,
dave

Eudaimonium · Feb 16, 2010

What Dave is saying is, you have a PCB in your tailcap where the switch is.
You need to remove that PCB or simply jump it, so no curent goes through it. Flexdrive will do all the work of driving the diode, itself must not be regulated further.

LordKaramazov · Feb 16, 2010

really?? in the dorcy?? never saw such a thing...in all the tutorials no one mentioned it...let me just check...well i think theres only a spring...and the flashlight is case negative...and i soldered one wire to the case, and the other one almost directly at the +...

I havent touched it since i posted the OP, but im kinda worried now, because my sis said the other day that the flashlight was hot when compared to the surroundings...not very hot, but warm... And i dont remember letting it on... we shall see..

thanks all for the answers, i will check those flaminpyro wires, cuz mine kept breaking (and it wasnt the first time in DIYs that that happened)

daguin · Feb 16, 2010

It is not in the tail cap. It is under that black plastic disc at the top of the housing. If you unscrew the head from the body, you will see a black plastic disc. Under that disc is the original driver for the flashlight.

Use a rod or dowel from the tail to push it out the front. sometimes it is hard to push out. Sometimes it is easy. You want to retain the spacer ring that it fits into so you can still hold that plastic ring in place. The black plastic ring acts as a spring guide to keep it centered.

I'll get a picture up for you in a minute

Peace,
dave

Eudaimonium · Feb 16, 2010

I must have misunderstood something then.

SORRY

I could have sworn I saw someone removing the driver from the tailcap.
Thanks Dave!

daguin · Feb 16, 2010

Here is the top of the body with the plastic disc

Under that disc is a driver. This one has already had the electronics stripped from it

Here's what it looks like after it has been pushed out

You can either strip it of electronics and use it as the battery connection or just leave it out and let the spring make direct contact with the top of the battery

This part of the Dorcy is the same in both the old and new styles.

Peace,
dave

Eudaimonium · Feb 16, 2010

Dave you should refocus the last one...
It is kinda difficult to tell what the hell is it

I'm sure you already know this but I cannot help myself: If the flash 'burns out' your photo like in last pic, you should prolong the distance between a camera and the object, and use the 'zoom' to get nearly the same picture. Except the flash will be on some distance and won't scorch it.

Either that, or use a flash 'diffuser', like a thin white paper. Might require longer expo then.

daguin · Feb 16, 2010

Eudaimonium said:
Dave you should refocus the last one...
It is kinda difficult to tell what the hell is it

I'm sure you already know this but I cannot help myself: If the flash 'burns out' your photo like in last pic, you should prolong the distance between a camera and the object, and use the 'zoom' to get nearly the same picture. Except the flash will be on some distance and won't scorch it.

Either that, or use a flash 'diffuser', like a thin white paper. Might require longer expo then.

LAWL! I point the camera, push the button down part way until it beeps, and then push it the rest of the way down. My crappy photos are legend :tinfoil:

In order to adjust anything, I would have to read the manual :shhh:

I was actually going to learn how to do this once, but got side-tracked. I still have a complete set of "Cloud Dome" < Cloud Dome- Products and Accessories > rings (dome, 7inch, and 12inch extensions) in my workshop. Never used, but they are there "just in case."

Peace,
dave

Eudaimonium · Feb 16, 2010

daguin said:
LAWL! I point the camera, push the button down part way until it beeps, and then push it the rest of the way down. My crappy photos are legend :tinfoil:

In order to adjust anything, I would have to read the manual :shhh:

I was actually going to learn how to do this once, but got side-tracked. I still have a complete set of "Cloud Dome" < Cloud Dome- Products and Accessories > rings (dome, 7inch, and 12inch extensions) in my workshop. Never used, but they are there "just in case."

Peace,
dave

Hahaha, no actually you don't have to read no manuals. I know I haven't

Just don't put the host into your lens like that, put it like half a meter away, and use zoom to get the same viewpoint.

If you can build a laser, you can sure as hell adjust some options in your camera.

daguin · Feb 16, 2010

Eudaimonium said:
Hahaha, no actually you don't have to read no manuals. I know I haven't
Just don't put the host into your lens like that, put it like half a meter away, and use zoom to get the same viewpoint.

If you can build a laser, you can sure as hell adjust some options in your camera.

I am an over-educated, arrogant, elitists. I CAN do virtually anything that my body can handle

However, one must also have the motivation to learn something.

Peace,
dave

LordKaramazov · Feb 16, 2010

oh! i took the black thing apart, and i soldered everything directly. In that center piece, with the original driver, there is one center "metal dot" that goes directly to the other side, where the battery is, and that is the +. U can easily check that. i soldered my + wire there...ill try to post a pic...

daguin · Feb 16, 2010

LordKaramazov said:
oh! i took the black thing apart, and i soldered everything directly. In that center piece, with the original driver, there is one center "metal dot" that goes directly to the other side, where the battery is, and that is the +. U can easily check that. i soldered my + wire there...ill try to post a pic...

Did you strip the electronics off of the stock driver before you soldered to the center point?

Peace,
dave

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