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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

No spring on my driver, where to attach + & - wires?

Crosso

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Hi,
so my host arrived today, and it has a side clicky. After taking the light apart, the clicky is in contact with my battery pack via a a plate, and it "was" in contact with the circuitboard/LED's via the same sort of plate. My driver/module doesnt have a spring on it though, so im curious if i have to attach the black and red wires (from the driver) to the plate? or do i attach them to the old spring and then have it in contact with the plate.

I apologise if this doesnt make sense, its hard to describe.
 





Crosso

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Alright no worries.
So here is the button/clicky.
9XfA8.png

They are the 2 plates I was talking about.
One of them is in contact with the battery sleeve (see below) and I was curious how I was to connect the driver/module (all i have is a red and a black wire) to the other plate.
t77UM.png


I hope that covers it.
 

DTR

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You will probably need to use the case pin for your negative and the positive gets soldered on contact point that is on top. It looks like it is the same kind of clicky that is in the hotlights and guidesman hosts. You can see how I wired mine in my review.

1W 445nm Mohrenberg Hotlights Blue 18500 Host Kit
 
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DTR has the right of it, and His tutorials are top shelf. Check it out and You won't go wrong.
 

Crosso

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I dont quite understand..
So i solder the positive to the contact plate thing,
and run my negative to the case pin?
I presume that the case pin is the little metal ring that was inside my host, holding the circuit board in place? if so, mine got bent too much to go back in.. :S
 
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No the case pin is on the diode. and you solder a wire from the positive pin on the diode to the top contact of the switch.
 

DTR

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I dont quite understand..
So i solder the positive to the contact plate thing,
and run my negative to the case pin?
I presume that the case pin is the little metal ring that was inside my host, holding the circuit board in place? if so, mine got bent too much to go back in.. :S

The case pin on your diode will either be bridged with the negative pin or have a lead that goes to the driver negative input for path to ground. Which way you do it will be based on what driver you are using.:)

I am guessing that you are using a 445 diode. If it is not a 445 or 405 diode your pin configuration may be different.

PHR803Tpins.gif
 
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Crosso

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I brought the entire module, so all I have is the module (diode, lens, driver) all in one.
Its sealed off, and has 2 wires running out of it.
A red, and a black.
Its a 532nm btw
 

DTR

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I brought the entire module, so all I have is the module (diode, lens, driver) all in one.
Its sealed off, and has 2 wires running out of it.
A red, and a black.
Its a 532nm btw

Can you throw up some more shots of the host body, head and heatsink. On the guidesman's host I know some have pinched the negative lead from the driver between the top lip of the host and the heatsink.
 
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OIC! That will make it easier to assemble your laser. You need to hook the positive to the top of the switch and the negative to the case of the host.

DTR do you think this is right with His module?

Is the heatsink drilled the correct size for the green module?
 

Crosso

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Alright, apologies for the bad blur.
So this is the whole module, it's only 10mW so apparently additional heatsinking wont be necisarry, i won't be having it on for long anyway.
OZhSi.png


And this is the tip of the wire protruding from the module. I can trim it shorter of course, but thats what is inside it.
C38rQ.png
 

DTR

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I really need to see the host body, head and heatsink showing how it goes together. I am looking for somewhere you can wire in a ground.
 

DTR

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It is a blue hotlights kit? If so I think your only good alternative would be to pinch the black wire between the heatsink and the top of the host body that the heatsink sits on. The hotlights host seems a bit short for that module you have.

What is the voltage requirement of the driver?


Here is a picture. Pinch the black wire where the yellow circle is.

hotlights.jpg
 
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Crosso

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The voltage requirement is between 3 and 5V
so Im using 3 AAA batteries at 1.5V each.
Its not that specific kit, but the guts are exactly the same, as is where the parts connect.

The host is too short but I dont mind having the module sticking out the end. Looks decent to me plus it will be secured by set screws.

Since i'm not using a heatsink, would it be wise to pinch the wire between the host and the pill between the module and contact plate?
or could i just tape it to the side, so long as its contacting the metal host.
 




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