New DX green module's optics

So, instead of pot-modding, could I buy one of the new DX green modules and replace the IR diode with one designed for higher power? Or is there a risk with that, too, 'cause the circuit board and/or optics wasn't meant for higher powers? If that's really a risk, is it a high risk or low risk?

Bearded_Galaxy said:

So, instead of pot-modding, could I buy one of the new DX green modules and replace the IR diode with one designed for higher power? Or is there a risk with that, too, 'cause the circuit board and/or optics wasn't meant for higher powers? If that's really a risk, is it a high risk or low risk?

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I believe the risk comes with you taking apart the module. the 2 crystals are very precisely positioned and aligned. If you replace the diode I'm thinking you'd screw all that up.

and the driver wouldn't be set up to run a higher power diode.

to be honest: all in all, a very horrible idea.

-Kendall

Good point. I think the CB could handle it, since it has a pot that I know is turned down, but I don't actually know if it can. And yeah, the optics alignment might be an issue.

I don't know the structure of those green modules, but I've taken a green pointer appart, and it used a hybrid crystal with the diode just put very close to it. I've taken the diode in and out without problem.
Depending on the construction, it's easy or hard to do. But you'd need an open can diode as replacement. The driver may also need to be replaced to provide a higher current. With the lower power modules, the crystals won't be the problem.

Sounds great! Now, where can I buy a nice-ish but cheap IR diode...

I would not count on the crystals not being a problem. Just pumping them harder will rarely get you the desired result - you can get odd beams at best, or damage the crystal set at worst.

Overdrivng a crystal set is only a good idea if you are fairly sure it can handle more power than its original application. Otherwise, problems mihght be as mild as not absorbing any more pump light, or as bad as frying the coatings right off, which would be a total loss for most sets.