-_- well ive tried everything on this laser that i can. Can i just send it to one of you so you can build it? I just dont understand what i did wrong... Ive tried building 2 lasers so far and both failed. Why though? The SL kits are SOOOOO easy to build but i just dont understand why i cant build that laser. I MUST be cursed! I'm following the instructions soldering the module to the driver screwing the driver in then the HS holder the putting the module in the HS tightening the set screw popping the HS in and tightening the crown not letting the HS rotate. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT I DID WRONG THERE?! I did EVERYTHING just the way i was told and still... No laser for me!
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My laser doesnt work?!?!?!?!
- Thread starter Rewkie
- Start date
danefex
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Stop complaining and yelling already. You've been asked to post pictures of what you're trying to do so people can continue trying to help you but you keep whining like a spoiled child. It's clear you dont know what you're doing so you need to take your own pictures of what you're trying to do so we can get your laser working. Whenever you get around to doing this, check all your connections again & make sure the polarity on everything is correct. Also make sure the batteries are not loose & making good contact between the tailspring (-) and contact board (+) inside the laser, they should not rattle around at all.
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danefex
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Why don't you just buy a completed laser from someone here? With the price of that kit and one of DTR's diodes in module, you've spent around $250 and all you have to show so far is some nice eagle gargles. You could get around 2w in one that's already built for less than that. I wouldn't wanna see that nice stuff go to waste but maybe you should buy a premade laser, and find someone else to take a crack at the spare parts you have now. At least until you progress in the hobby and acquire more of the necessary equipment
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Well i THOUGHT everything would go fine and dandy but it didn't! so NOW everythings is thoroughly SCREWED. And ive lost $250 for no reason at all. And i cant post pics because ive got no camera! Unless of course you want me to use an iPod.
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DTR
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Here if you want to send me what you have I won't build it for you but I will troubleshoot and test all the components for you. Just pay shipping both ways.
jcranmer
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No one can tell you what went wrong unless you can take a photo. Since you don't have a camera you may be out of luck.
There are scores of things a new builder (or even en experienced one) can do wrong.
Some of the typical mistakes:
1) Static Discharge. Did you use a wrist strap that was connected to an earth ground?
2) Reversed the polarity of the battery(s)
3) Too much heat. These diodes can only take a small amount of heat. No more then 1-2 seconds with the soldering iron or you may very well kill the diode
4) Intermittent connection to the diode. If you apply power and the diode becomes disconnected your driver will be fried
5) Powering the driver with no test load or diode attached. (See above)
Do you get the idea now? There are tons of way YOU can mess up a build, so the very fact that you use the phrase "for no reason at all" is just not true.
Edit: Very good of you to offer to help him, DTR!
There are scores of things a new builder (or even en experienced one) can do wrong.
Some of the typical mistakes:
1) Static Discharge. Did you use a wrist strap that was connected to an earth ground?
2) Reversed the polarity of the battery(s)
3) Too much heat. These diodes can only take a small amount of heat. No more then 1-2 seconds with the soldering iron or you may very well kill the diode
4) Intermittent connection to the diode. If you apply power and the diode becomes disconnected your driver will be fried
5) Powering the driver with no test load or diode attached. (See above)
Do you get the idea now? There are tons of way YOU can mess up a build, so the very fact that you use the phrase "for no reason at all" is just not true.
Edit: Very good of you to offer to help him, DTR!
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Garoq
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I just saw this thread. FYI all our driver modules are tested and the measured output current is written on the pill. The host tailcap switches are tested as well.
Jcranmer's checklist is a good one.
Jcranmer's checklist is a good one.
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AnthoT
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The case is isolated if you wanted when it's not soldered to a + or - you can touch it anywhere you want
Hmmmm... I cant think of anything else that could mess with it.
1)What does that even mean?
2)Did that.
3)I didn't get the iron any where near the diode.
4-5)Yep. My friend came over and thought he was doing me a favor and i TOLD him not to touch it but he's,well,not smart... And he disconnected the diode and turned it on and touched the driver wires together and stuff? I dont know what he was doing...
1)What does that even mean?
2)Did that.
3)I didn't get the iron any where near the diode.
4-5)Yep. My friend came over and thought he was doing me a favor and i TOLD him not to touch it but he's,well,not smart... And he disconnected the diode and turned it on and touched the driver wires together and stuff? I dont know what he was doing...
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Garoq
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No, that would not be a problem here.
Garoq
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That probably killed the driver.
