My Dilda broke, need help on upgrading it.

slifer · Jan 16, 2010

Hi :wave:
This is my first post, but i have been following the forum for a little while. please be patient with me if i may come across silly

I ordered my dilda from budget gadgets ( $41.06 HLP18130 Focusable Red Laser Pointer 200mW - BudgetGadgets.com ). I think this is the newer version.

So heres the story, i was powering it with an adapter an accidently turned up the voltage from 6v to 9v, i heard a loud bang and when i checked inside a component on the driver had blown.

Now after looking for a fix i realised that this would be the perfect opportunity for me to upgrade it, as mine wasnt very powerfull to start with. removing the diode from the heatsink led to braking it but now i can start fresh.

Im thinking of buying this open can diode ( LPC-815 660nm red laser diode - $13.49 : Modwerx Shop), but having trouble picking a driver as i do not know which one would be best. i do not currently have a multimeter so i am worried that i wont be able to check the ma that is outputted. I read that the micro drive can ouput a maximum of 430ma, and that is just about how much i need for the diode to get ~250mw, would this work?. or are there any alternatives?. would the dilda host be suitable for this?.

Im sorry for baffling so much, but any help would be much appreciated!. :thanks:

charliebruce · Jan 16, 2010

I think that in this situation you would probably be best off using a Rkcstr driver set at about 420mA. It's well worth investing in a basic multi-meter and test load if you want to do much laser DIY work, and you should probably ask for the LPC IR diode to be included to practice on first, unless you're confident in your soldering ability.

The Dilda host should be capable of holding this (presuming the driver fits in the host, I don't know the dimensions of a Rkcstr driver so I can't comment), I have seen a few "re-built" Dildas hosting PHRs in the past, so it's definitely possible, though I don't know how good the host is for heat-sinking. As long as you keep the duty cycle low you should be fine.

slifer · Jan 16, 2010

Thanks for your reply,
Ive never really understood what a test load is, i read on sites that it imitates the diode so you can check ma. but if you connected the multimeter directly to outputs doesnt it do that for you anyway?. (im going to definetly buy a multi meter).

I have seen some people run the laser at around 430ma. since the driver has a limit of 430ma, if i was to turn the pot all the way up, would the output be 430ma for definite?. Just wondering about this because this wound mean i wouldnt need to measure output.

Jimmymcjimthejim · Jan 16, 2010

slifer said:
if you connected the multimeter directly to outputs doesnt it do that for you anyway?

No it doesn't. The test load will emulate the actual laser diode, and will make it so you can test the driver as if it is operating with the laser diode installed. Even though it is not required to use a test load, it is recommended so you can see the exact output of your driver before you hook up your laser diode. For example, if your soldering job is messy and you unintentionally short two of the points, using a test load could quickly identify that the driver is not operating how it is supposed to. If you hook up your diode to this defective driver, then it will blow in a fraction of a second.

slifer said:
I have seen some people run the laser at around 430ma. since the driver has a limit of 430ma, if i was to turn the pot all the way up, would the output be 430ma for definite?. Just wondering about this because this wound mean i wouldnt need to measure output.

Probably, but it would be best to check the current of the driver before you hook it up.
Good luck,
Jimmymcjimthejim

Edit:
My favorite example of the dilda-mod is the Megadilda. I believe it was the first one.

slifer · Jan 16, 2010

I havnt ever made a diy laser, so it would be great if you could clarify the parts i would need and if the sites are good, or if there is a cheaper/ better alternative.

Diode; LPC-815 Open can diode ( LPC-815 20x DVD burner laser lens assembly w/ red laser diode [LPC-815] - $10.49 : Modwerx Shop). Since it is the whole assembly, does it include an IR diode to practice on? Would i be better off just buying the diode on its own already harvested, since i have no experience on removing one?

Driver RKCSTR Micro Drive from ( Surface Mount FULL RANGE ADJUSTABLE Laser Driver pre-assembled [Stonetek_RKCSTR_FULL_RANGE] - $19.99 : StoneTek Electronics, Your Laser Parts Store )

Test Load ( Laser Diode Driver Test Load KIT *MUST HAVE* [Stonetek_RKCSTR_TL] - $10.99 : StoneTek Electronics, Your Laser Parts Store)

Are these Ok?, Is there a better site where i could find these parts for cheaper?. just need a final confirmation so i can be confident that i am buying the right things.
Thanks again

charliebruce · Jan 17, 2010

Diode is good. Extraction is relatively easy as long as you have a way of removing the diode from metal collar (heat-sink) - I use a dremel but it can also be done with sharp wire snippers or 2 pairs of pliers. If you buy the sled (whole assembly) it will include IR, red and optics. The driver can be bought cheaper from Micro-Drive V3 adjustable driver (assembled) - $13.00 : rkcstr.com, Micro-Drive and laser diode electronics as can a test load, Test Load KIT (AKA Dummy load, unassembled) - $5.75 : rkcstr.com, Micro-Drive and laser diode electronics

slifer · Jan 17, 2010

Thnaks for all the help.
I just ordered the parts all from Modwerx, throught it would be easier to order all from the same place. in the comments section i asked to have the IR diode included, and if they could, set the driver to 420ma. i dont know if they will set it but it would be helpfull.
Just wondering, how powerfull is the IR diode?, i also ordered a spare aixiz module and realised it could be used for that.
I cant wait for the parts to arrive, i am now fully into diy laser building !!!.
In the meantime, i need to get a multimeter

slifer · Jan 26, 2010

I got all the parts delivered today and started by harvesting the diode. i took both the ir and red diode out, but had trouble doing it and could have been the reason for the following problems.
i set the driver to 420ma annd desoldered the positive wire and replaced it with a spring. i then tested the diode out and found that it was no brighter then an led. i rechecked the driver and all the connections were fine and it was outputting around 420ma.

The Diode continiesd to be as dim as an led. i then tunrned the potentiometer to other ranges, but no change.
I tried the IR diode and it was also outputting dim red, but not enough of anything to burn stuff ( ifigured there would be ir in the diode so judging by looks wont be enough).

So i guess i ruined my red diode aswell as the ir diode, or maybe the ir diode is too weak to do anything anyway.

Is there a way to fix this, or should i go ahead and order another diode from modwerx?. i dont even kno if it was me who did something wrong, or maybe it was sent busted. i did everything in the process of harvesting/pressing that i read 100's of threads on. i even grounded myself. i probably just got unlucky.

hydrogenman15 · Jan 26, 2010

slifer said:
I got all the parts delivered today and started by harvesting the diode. i took both the ir and red diode out, but had trouble doing it and could have been the reason for the following problems.
i set the driver to 420ma annd desoldered the positive wire and replaced it with a spring. i then tested the diode out and found that it was no brighter then an led. i rechecked the driver and all the connections were fine and it was outputting around 420ma.

The Diode continiesd to be as dim as an led. i then tunrned the potentiometer to other ranges, but no change.
I tried the IR diode and it was also outputting dim red, but not enough of anything to burn stuff ( ifigured there would be ir in the diode so judging by looks wont be enough).

So i guess i ruined my red diode aswell as the ir diode, or maybe the ir diode is too weak to do anything anyway.

Is there a way to fix this, or should i go ahead and order another diode from modwerx?. i dont even kno if it was me who did something wrong, or maybe it was sent busted. i did everything in the process of harvesting/pressing that i read 100's of threads on. i even grounded myself. i probably just got unlucky.

I would recommend that you stay away from IR (only if you haven't got goggles that are designed IR). (IMO)

Anyways, I think you probably fried it... But maybe the driver is shorting out. Try checking the current going into the driver. If its not over 430 its probably dead. Also, you didn't turn the driver on until AFTER you soldered the diode to it right?

--Hydro15

slifer · Jan 27, 2010

I did double check the driver and the current was constant. and did solder the diode on first and then turned the driver on.

i just ordered 2 more lcp-815 diodes from moodwerx, this time already harvested. only home this time all goes smoothly.

On the instruction pdf of the rckstr driver it does say that attaching a multi meter directly to ouputs does give you accurate readouts of the current. does this mean that a test load is not needed?. i did use one, but it was difficult holding the wires of the dummy on to the driver, at the same time testing dummy.

mdjd07 · Feb 2, 2010

Im pretty sure I read somewhere on here that you only need the test load for a boost driver...I didnt use a test load for my rkcstr driver, the output was 89.1 ma. I left it at that for the phr.

slifer · Feb 3, 2010

I got my two diodes today and this time succeeded in putting it all together. 1 off the diodes seems to not be working but the other is fine. it was such a pain press fitting it in the dilda heatsink, but managed to do it.
This thing is burning like crazy, i will post pics soon. i have black marks all over my table from the burning.
One thing though. sometimes randomly the diode comes up as dim as an led, this scares me alot thinking it has turned like my other diode. but after a little while it goes bright again. when i check the current on the driver it shows as 30ma. i think theres something wrong with the driver but most of the time i have it on full (420ma) and its fine.

I have long duty cycles because the new dilda host has quite a better heatsink then aixiz.
I had to also change the position of the lens because it wasnt focusing properly, but now its fine.

More pics to come.
Thanks for everyones help

mdjd07 · Feb 4, 2010

Cant wait to see pics!
Thats wierd that your driver is acting up

slifer · Feb 7, 2010

Here are the pictures;

I had to unscrew the lens abit so that it focused properly. i used teflon tape to make it secure and not wobbly

Heres the laser with focusing head off, used teflon tape to stiffen up focusing

Here is the lPC-815 diode press fitted in the heatsink

Here is the where all the work went in to. you can see the microdrive with the spring soldered to it and the drive epoxied to the heatsink after soldering the diode

#
From the top

Here is a really bad photographed beamshot. i might include more soon

slifer · Feb 7, 2010

So to conclude this project, i really have gained a siginificant power boost from upgrading the driver and diode. the host is really good and because of the good heatsink i can have some really long duty cycles and only after 7-10 minutes does start to warm up
I like the dilda focusing head better then the aixiz modules so thats a bonus.
Ill include a video and some more beamshots soon.

mdjd07 · Feb 7, 2010

Is that hot glue you put around the driver? Beam pic looks cool

My Dilda broke, need help on upgrading it.

slifer

0

charliebruce

0

slifer

0

Jimmymcjimthejim

0

slifer

0

charliebruce

0

slifer

0

slifer

0

hydrogenman15

0

slifer

0

mdjd07

0

slifer

0

mdjd07

0

slifer

0

slifer

0

mdjd07

0

Online statistics

Forum statistics

Share this page