Making a set screw?

Wolfman29 · Apr 18, 2011

Hey everyone. How does one make a set screw? Is there a way to go about putting a set screw in a heatsink without a lathe/tap? And wouldn't a heatsink being loose just make the heatsinking properties worse?

I am trying to get the Aixiz module to fit my copper heatsink, but my drill is just a bit too small... so I have no idea how to go about getting the perfect fit without just filing and trial and error....

Thanks.

shhh · Apr 18, 2011

Get a small screw and nut and countersink them to the sink. Make the hole for the nut real tight fitting and ram it it with a hammer. Gonna need a small rod or something to stuff nut into sink. Insert screw and tighten down.
I dunno thats all I got lol.

Benm · Apr 18, 2011

I don't think there is a practical way without a tap... but those aren't that expensive, and threading a hole isn't exactly rocket science either. Just make sure you are using the proper diameter drill before tapping. There are charts on which drill size is required for which thread diameter, usually included with a tap kit.

123splat · Apr 18, 2011

shhh's idea is a quick and dirty fix that will work well if you don't need too much tension. Another option is to aneal your sink material and use a selfthreading screw (grind or cut off the head and cut a slot with a Dremmel cutting wheel). Best thing to do, however, is gut it up, go to Harbor Frieght, and get a tap and die set. either way, aneal the copper before machining, especially if you use a small guage tap. And, don't forget oil.

Wolfman29 · Apr 18, 2011

Hmm. Damn it not being very familiar with all of this! I have a feeling that if I tried this I would end up ruining my sink, at least aesthetically, if not practically. I may just make it a press fit for the Aixiz module -.-

123splat · Apr 18, 2011

Anealing is just a simple process of making the copper softer. get a metal (steel, usually) pie tin or cake pan. turn your oven on at it's highest temp (500F), put the copper in the cake pan, put the cake pan in the oven for 30-50 minutes. after that, take the cakepan out of the oven, turn the oven off, put the cake pan some where where it can cool slowly (just let it sit until it reaches room tempreture, don't blow on it, son't throw cold water on it, ect.) That's it. doesn't hurt the copper, doesn't mess with it's ability to suck up heat as a sink. It DOES make the copper softer, so you can work it easier (drill, cut, ect.) drilling any holes for set screws is not going to mess up the sink as long as you drill them straight, in fact, it may even increase the sinking and dissipation ability, as it increases surface area, but that's another issue.

Don't be timid. be bold! no guts, no glory.

Mohrenberg · Apr 18, 2011

wolfman

You can buy the thread tap for about $3.50 at the hardware store. It should also say on the thread tap packaging which drill bit should be used for the starter hole.

all in all you can buy the starter bit, thread tap and the screw for like $6 at the most.
Just drill the starter hole with a regular hand drill, and then using some kind of drill chuck, you need to thread it by hand. Don't forget to use some cutting oil when threading it as well.

When i first got my lathe i didn't have a drill press, i used a regular electric drill and the drill chuck from my lathe to do all the set screws.

Wolfman29 · Apr 18, 2011

Err. What's a drill chuck? Sorry. I'm not a hardware guy

Mohrenberg · Apr 18, 2011

it's the thing that you use to hold the drill bits.

You can al get these little T shaped handles that are made for this specific purpose.

Wolfman29 · Apr 18, 2011

Alright. And so the lesson here is:

1. Place copper in oven at 500 degrees for an hour, take out and let it cool slowly to soften the metal.
2. Go the store and get an allen screw that is really small, find dimensions of screw (and get associated allen wrench).
3. Get drill bit and tap for size of the screw I am looking to use.
4. Get T-shaped handle for hand-threading the set screw. Also get some cutting oil for the threading.
5. Get the correct bit to drill out a hole in my heatsink that is only slightly larger than the Aixiz module.

Step five is where I am having problems - where I live, we can only find imperial units for drill bits... so I can't get a 12mm drill bit. I think the closest without being too small that is a common bit would be like 31/64"? But even then, I doubt Home Depot sells that. 15/32 is slightly too small, so... yeah. And one half is just wrong =p 1/2" is off by about 28/1000s of an inch.

Ra1nfade · Apr 18, 2011

Wolfman,

This must be hard for you when people with experince with machining are trying to explain what and how to do complete your task at hand. What I would suggest is google how to tap a hole and dig around a little bit into machining processes (tapping and drilling with some images) then it should become a little more clear as to what these guys are referring too.

But what the members in the previous posts say is correct and good advice once you get a hold of what they're saying

sorry if I interfere with anybody currently trying to help out Wolfman

Guess my post was a little late... anyways for a 12mm drill check out automotive stores its a common size in automotive tap and drill sets. And not sure if everybody agrees with this but 31/64 is a little large youll have .008 of clearance on both sides of the diameter of your aixiz module.

Wolfman29 · Apr 18, 2011

It's alright. I did some more reading on tapping a hole. I think I got it down... maybe? And I will do that. Now I just need to find some sort of automotive store where I live. Wish me luck! Maybe by this afternoon I will have successfully drilled out my heatsink and got a nice set screw going. Thanks!

Ra1nfade · Apr 18, 2011

It might take a little time to find the tools but then youll have them and your good to go after that

If you have absolutely no luck finding tools in your area there's always places to order exactly what need online

Good Luck to you sir :beer:

Wolfman29 · Apr 18, 2011

So I have done some searching online... others have this problem in Scottsdale, as well.

What was recommended to me, though, was to use 15/32" drill bit and then just "wiggle it around" once the hole has been bored out. Think that would work?

EDIT: May have found something, but missed it earlier due to misleading names of drill bits at Sears. Woo!

Mohrenberg · Apr 18, 2011

Wolfman29 said:
So I have done some searching online... others have this problem in Scottsdale, as well.

What was recommended to me, though, was to use 15/32" drill bit and then just "wiggle it around" once the hole has been bored out. Think that would work?

EDIT: May have found something, but missed it earlier due to misleading names of drill bits at Sears. Woo!

yeah it works but the hole will be a little rough and might have some nasty grooves on the inside.
i work my way up to a 15/32 and then pass through it with a 12mm reamer.

Ra1nfade · Apr 18, 2011

Mohs got it right. If you straight drill with 15/32 most likely the hole will be tapered and create a fitment issue but it would work although i wouldnt ream a 12mm hole if its drilled to 15/32 already. If its a brand new drill and you feed slow and center drill you could get a nicely finished hole since and may not need a reamer since nominal 15/32 is .4687 and the nominal aixiz is 11.9mm (.4685) but you will always have tool variation and since and drill wobble from the chuck which may still require you to have a set screw but youll have a nice snug fit

Making a set screw?

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