HOW TO: 100+mW 405nm w/ 803T Dorcy Jr Laser

el-taco said:

I already have a diode in a module

But if I order now, will I be getting a new gen flexdrive?

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yeah, he doesn't have any 1st gen. and won't be making any more 1st gen.. everything will be 2nd gen

edit: 600 posts!! woo wooo

I'm not sure if the FusionDrives will work. Here is the specs for it:
BluRay 12mA to 80mA, Red 80mA to 350mA.
Note that this is a Low DropOut (LDO) regulator, and has a theoretical 1V drop Vin to Vout. So you could (theoretically) run a BluRay diode on only 5.5V input, or a red on 3.5. That said, it can also cope with voltages up to 13V so you can run it off pretty much anything.

I'm new to using flashlights as housing but the CR123 battery is only 3 volts right? This would make the Fusion drive pointless unless I stuck it in an MXDL (that does use two cr123's right?) which i have none of, I only have two Dorcy Jr. So am I screwed unless I get the flexdrive? I know its a really good deal for what it does, but it still seems like a lot to spend on a driver. Would the fusiondrive be ok to use on a Stontech red diode?

Also, those cool Microdrives don't seem like they would work either. If I'm not mistaken the 405nm diodes take more voltage, at least I think they do. It would be nice if there was a chart that showed all of the current popular diodes and what voltage and current they need. It would make it easier to know what drivers to use.

Heh, one last thing... what does the test load do that is offered on the microdriver page? It seems to help you determine what current the driver is ajusted to, is this correct?

mmykle said:

I'm not sure if the FusionDrives will work. Here is the specs for it:
BluRay 12mA to 80mA, Red 80mA to 350mA.
Note that this is a Low DropOut (LDO) regulator, and has a theoretical 1V drop Vin to Vout. So you could (theoretically) run a BluRay diode on only 5.5V input, or a red on 3.5. That said, it can also cope with voltages up to 13V so you can run it off pretty much anything.

I'm new to using flashlights as housing but the CR123 battery is only 3 volts right? This would make the Fusion drive pointless unless I stuck it in an MXDL (that does use two cr123's right?) which i have none of, I only have two Dorcy Jr. So am I screwed unless I get the flexdrive? I know its a really good deal for what it does, but it still seems like a lot to spend on a driver. Would the fusiondrive be ok to use on a Stontech red diode?

Also, those cool Microdrives don't seem like they would work either. If I'm not mistaken the 405nm diodes take more voltage, at least I think they do. It would be nice if there was a chart that showed all of the current popular diodes and what voltage and current they need. It would make it easier to know what drivers to use.

Heh, one last thing... what does the test load do that is offered on the microdriver page? It seems to help you determine what current the driver is ajusted to, is this correct?

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you are correct, for the Dorcy, really the only option would be a flexdrive, unless you know how to make your own boost driver! (which you don't, trust me).

the Fusion or Micro driver would not work with 3V that one CR123 puts out. Yes the Dorcy uses 1 CR123 3V battery. MXDL uses two of them, so gives 6V. the micro driver would require about 7.5V, so a 9V battery is the best bet to use with the micro driver / PHR803T. you could try to get some 3.6V rechargeable CR123 from DX but would have to wait a month.... and it might not even work with 7.2V anyways.

plus if you use a MXDL, you have to figure out a way to hold the [link=http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9]Aixiz module[/link] in place. I've used hot glue before but it looks horrible. Jayrobs heat sinks are really the best way to do it, but then you're spending ~$25 anyways that would have gone to the cost of the DrLava flexdrive.

the fusion drive might work for a 16x red diode, you could just ask SenKat, he'll help you out.

sk8er4514 said:

[quote author=mmykle link=1214285108/40#49 date=1217042518]I'm not sure if the FusionDrives will work. Here is the specs for it:
BluRay 12mA to 80mA, Red 80mA to 350mA.
Note that this is a Low DropOut (LDO) regulator, and has a theoretical 1V drop Vin to Vout. So you could (theoretically) run a BluRay diode on only 5.5V input, or a red on 3.5. That said, it can also cope with voltages up to 13V so you can run it off pretty much anything.

I'm new to using flashlights as housing but the CR123 battery is only 3 volts right? This would make the Fusion drive pointless unless I stuck it in an MXDL (that does use two cr123's right?) which i have none of, I only have two Dorcy Jr. So am I screwed unless I get the flexdrive? I know its a really good deal for what it does, but it still seems like a lot to spend on a driver. Would the fusiondrive be ok to use on a Stontech red diode?

Also, those cool Microdrives don't seem like they would work either. If I'm not mistaken the 405nm diodes take more voltage, at least I think they do. It would be nice if there was a chart that showed all of the current popular diodes and what voltage and current they need. It would make it easier to know what drivers to use.

Heh, one last thing... what does the test load do that is offered on the microdriver page? It seems to help you determine what current the driver is ajusted to, is this correct?

Click to expand...

you are correct, for the Dorcy, really the only option would be a flexdrive, unless you know how to make your own boost driver! (which you don't, trust me).

the Fusion or Micro driver would not work with 3V that one CR123 puts out. Yes the Dorcy uses 1 CR123 3V battery. MXDL uses two of them, so gives 6V. the micro driver would require about 7.5V, so a 9V battery is the best bet to use with the micro driver / PHR803T. you could try to get some 3.6V rechargeable CR123 from DX but would have to wait a month.... and it might not even work with 7.2V anyways.

plus if you use a MXDL, you have to figure out a way to hold the [link=http://www.hightechdealz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9]Aixiz module[/link] in place. I've used hot glue before but it looks horrible. Jayrobs heat sinks are really the best way to do it, but then you're spending ~$25 anyways that would have gone to the cost of the DrLava flexdrive.

the fusion drive might work for a 16x red diode, you could just ask SenKat, he'll help you out.[/quote]

Do not forget the obvious option, the reason the Dorcy Jr is such a popular host: The "stock" Dorcy-driver circuit is a booster-driver. This driver-alone will drive a Senkat 16x diode, or an "long-die open-can" at up to 350mA with a 3v battery, at over 500mA with a 3.7v battery, you can add resistors to limit the current lower. You can run a PS3 diode with it, and a PHR-803t diode up to 60-70mA, (it cannot boost the voltage high enough to deliver more than this to the diode, but you would ahve a 40mW 405nM pointer that would last forever). I have also read about using the stock-board to drive a IR-diode. This driver is not a "constant-current" driver though, which is why it is so versatile, but this is not usually a problem with most builds. So you can "light" anything, (diode-wise),  with what you have right now, if you want to upgrade later, the Flex-drive is a great driver.
The heat-sinks you bought are specifically designed to support the original modification of the Dorcy Jr, made popular by Kenom's video and thread: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1181635652 , and I made another thread about using Kenom's technique except with a PS3 diode from a kess-4000 sled, (this was before the 803 became popular): http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1207864937/0#0 So if you would rather save money for awhile, just go with what you have, the addiction will set-in from there.
I hope this helps,
DH

oh man this helps so much, thanks! I gave in and bought a flex drive, but just one, the 803 is the only diode that needs it. Other diodes will be fine with Dorcys driver.

While both of you helped a ton, niether answered my question about what the test load does? This one: http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=223

I get what it does... I think. It just simulates a red or blue diode, but I don't see how this would help. Wouldn't a multi-meter tell u if the driver is working okay?

mmykle said:

oh man this helps so much, thanks! I gave in and bought a flex drive, but just one, the 803 is the only diode that needs it. Other diodes will be fine with Dorcys driver.
While both of you helped a ton, niether answered my question about what the test load does? This one: http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=223
I get what it does... I think. It just simulates a red or blue diode, but I don't see how this would help. Wouldn't a multi-meter tell u if the driver is working okay?

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The test load simulates the current draw and use of a diode. Using it to set the driver protects you from blowing the diode while setting the driver AND is MUCH easier to get a current reading from

Peace,
dave

daguin said:

[quote author=mmykle link=1214285108/40#52 date=1217142586]oh man this helps so much, thanks! I gave in and bought a flex drive, but just one, the 803 is the only diode that needs it. Other diodes will be fine with Dorcys driver.
While both of you helped a ton, niether answered my question about what the test load does? This one: http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=223
I get what it does... I think. It just simulates a red or blue diode, but I don't see how this would help. Wouldn't a multi-meter tell u if the driver is working okay?

Click to expand...

The test load simulates the current draw and use of a diode.  Using it to set the driver protects you from blowing the diode while setting the driver AND is MUCH easier to get a current reading from

Peace,
dave[/quote]

Exactly, plus it is very important to note: The Flex-drive is a Constant Current driver, which means you have to always have a load on it when powered-up or it will try to power-up to infinity, (it will blow just shy of that ). So the test-load also provides an approx. "load" for your driver, otherwise you would have to risk your diode as the load, you cannot just clip the driver-leads up to your multi-meter.
There is also a large resistor on the test-load board that you can clip your MM-leads onto, and measure the voltage, which on this resistor, 1mV=1mA, so, like Dave says, you get a really easy and accurate way to measure your current-setting there.
I have 2 of them, I leave one set-up for "red" and the other for "blue", although they are very easy to change.
Also, the Dorcy-driver will work for the PHR 803t's, but it will "only" put out a max-40mW beam, after we get Igors lenses, that will be over 50mW of 405nM from the little-guy, not that bad, (of course I am running one at over 125mW right now from a Flex-Drive, so you do kinda' get what you pay for).  
DH

That helps a lot... again  . The flex drive will only die if the positive and negative leads are shorted then yes? Not if you just give it power with nothing on it.

Oh, I picked up two rechargeable 123 batteries this weekend at Fry's while I was getting some artic silver and I noticed they are only 700mAh. Doesn't seem like a charge would hold that long on one of those batteries, but with the flex drive will I get some decent use out of one charge?

Oh and Dark Horse, I got the heat sinks yesterday, thanks a lot!

mmykle said:

That helps a lot... again  . The flex drive will only die if the positive and negative leads are shorted then yes? Not if you just give it power with nothing on it.

Oh, I picked up two rechargeable 123 batteries this weekend at Fry's while I was getting some artic silver and I noticed they are only 700mAh. Doesn't seem like a charge would hold that long on one of those batteries, but with the flex drive will I get some decent use out of one charge?

Oh and Dark Horse, I got the heat sinks yesterday, thanks a lot!

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You would have to check with Dr.Lava, but I would not energize the Flex-drive without anything hooked up, (a load of somekind),even if the output wires are not shorted, (open-circuit).
Using the Flex-drive you will not believe how long even a single litium battery will last, mine last for a couple of months of occasional-use.
I am really glad the 'sink arrived safely.
Happy building,
DH

Good to know how fragile those the flex-drive is, I would NOT want to buy another one. lol, I don't know why this is the only component I'm hesitant to buy. You don't even need (although they are helpful) heat sinks and I got two! :

I noticed they shipped from Washington, I'm heading up there for vacation on saterday. My friend owns a vacation house up on the San Juan Islands and he invites me up there a lot.

mmykle said:

Good to know how fragile those the flex-drive is, I would NOT want to buy another one. lol, I don't know why this is the only component I'm hesitant to buy. You don't even need (although they are helpful) heat sinks and I got two! :

I noticed they shipped from Washington, I'm heading up there for vacation on saterday. My friend owns a vacation house up on the San Juan Islands and he invites me up there a lot.

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I would not say they are fragile, that is just the nature of a constant-current boost, they are a great laser-driver.
I can see the San Juans from my house, you will likely drive very near Stanwood on your drive north up I-5, before you get to Anacortes, or are you getting there by sea-plane? Have a great time.
DH

Hm, I've never heard of Stanwood before, and I'm taking the ferry over.

Hey I was wondering if I could take my 100mw green laser on carry on? Iv taken it on checked baggage multiple times but I'm worried they would confiscate it if I tried to take it on carry on and I'm not checking any bags on this trip.

mmykle said:

Hm, I've never heard of Stanwood before, and I'm taking the ferry over.

Hey I was wondering if I could take my 100mw green laser on carry on? Iv taken it on checked baggage multiple times but I'm worried they would confiscate it if I tried to take it on carry on and I'm not checking any bags on this trip.

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I'm curious about that also. I've taken laser packages to be shipped with me on planes that I needed to ship but didn't have time to. I usually put them in my checked baggage, one time i did this and i got the "random" search (was because we were 3 or 4 hours early, they search you if you're too early because they know u have plenty of time)... i was glad i didn't have the laser package on me.. might have thought i was going to try to blind some people or something

I've never had problems with checking the laser.

have fun on your trip, should be lots of fun! beautiful place up there.

It's probably best to just leave it at home. Oh well :-/

haha, I remember the tsa officer searched me cuz they thought i had hand grenades in my bad once. Turned out to be these cool looking rocks I picked up at the beach.

mmykle said:

It's probably best to just leave it at home. Oh well  :-/

haha, I remember the tsa officer searched me cuz they thought i had hand grenades in my bad once. Turned out to be these cool looking rocks I picked up at the beach.

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Lol

Just to add the Dorcy Jr has a boost circuit already good for driving blurays, you have to set current though.