Help...Solder which pin to what on the driver??? phr 803t

Hi,
As you can see at the bottom of this picture the two pins of the diode are put onto the two little pads of the driver, however there is a third pin on the back which I assume is soldered onto the pad on the back. What is the point of doing this? and do I even need to?
I just want to check everything is right before I put batteries in as I have seen so many stories on here of people killing their drivers or diodes.
As you can see this is my first post and I'm also quite new to lasers, while I have done quite a bit of research I'm just still a little doubtful about things.

here is the link to the site with the picture:
http://s243333424.e-shop.info/shop/page/13?shop_param=
This is also where I got most of my stuff.

Hmmm, interesting. Here's a useful link to diode pin outs. The PHR is 1st in the list. http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/diodes-compilation-all-diodes-data-one-thread-45042.html From the picture of the driver however, to work it must be that the pads are linked as the case pin is not used. It is possible that is the way this driver is setup but do you want to risk your LD finding out? I'd drop the supplier a line and ask them specifically.

Good luck with setting current on that thing too! Would be nice to have a pot in there somewhere. Have a look for alternative drivers on the forum, or build your own DDL driver. Lots on drivers can be found using the, "Search", button. May take time but all good info.

BTW:wave:Welcome the the forum!!!

M

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Laser Resources (for n00bs and veterans alike!)

http://laserpointerforums.com/f36/looking-build-laser-read-me-47684.html

Sam's Laser FAQ (The Laser Bible)

Sam's Laser FAQ - Preface, Introduction, What is a Laser?, Safety

RP Photonics Encyclopedia of Laser Physics and Technology

Encyclopedia of Laser Physics and Technology - an Open Access Resource of In-Depth Information, Free Articles, Nonlinear and Fiber Optics

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thanks for that:yh:

I have read most of those diy laser guides and that's how I got this stuff and started making it, its just nowhere explains precisely where the pins are soldered to. I have everything else done like the double stacked 1R0 resistors using a 5mm soldering iron(that was tricky).
thanks for the help

connections for a phr.

hi
thanks for the help people, have finally got batteries and my laser is working great, still need a spacer to move the lens further back but it burns stuff......including people who doubt the power of a photons

actually, the push button switch at the back keeps getting stuck, when I strip it down, the actual switch doesn't jam so I'm guessing its the button, it seems pretty smooth but is there some kind of grease or lube that's good for this kind of thing?

molykote (I hope I spelled that right)

jackh said:

hi
thanks for the help people, have finally got batteries and my laser is working great, still need a spacer to move the lens further back but it burns stuff......including people who doubt the power of a photons

Click to expand...

A spacer... ?

This is not normally required. Particularly if you're using an Aixiz as they are designed for the job. How is the focus inadequate? Close up or infinity? If you are having a problem with focus I am supsicious that the diode may not be seated properly in the module. It's unlikely to be misaligned but, with BRs especially, if the diode isn't pressed completely into the module then the it ends up too far away from the lens, even when screwed all the way in. Difficult to rectify once everything has been soldered and assembled etc. but something to be aware of when you come to installing your own.

This issue is just one of the many facets of the hobby and should in no way discourage you. Once learnt, they things become engrained.

Glad you got it up and running though. Well done.

M

hi,
The diode is all the way in the case it's just that when the lens is fully screwed in it is too far away from the diode, (the case is built for a red laser) so I struggle to focus on very near targets, I now leave it only partially screwed in and a little piece of tape stops any wobble.
And I discovered that when the spring on the switch is cut it reduces pressure on the switch and it works fine.
thanks for all the help!

ps: the diode is labelled as being 405nm with a difference of +or- 10nm, I think mine is minus as it causes things to light up in a way UV light would, however it is still very visible to me, Should my diode be giving out only one wavelength as this seems to be giving out a small span of different wavelengths.

Hmmm, I have seen BR diodes that sit flush with the module when installed and still turn out to be not fully pressed in. Without seeing the module itself it is hard to say, (any pics? Is it an Aixiz?), but I wouldn't have thought that being, "built for a red laser", would have much affect. PTFE tape works well on the threads to reduce that wobble you mention. (Anybody know what PTFE stands for, BTW? I always knew it as the acronym Plumbers Tape For Everything! :crackup: )

Yes, it should only be outputting one wavelength. (Correct me if I'm wrong readers but isn't that what defines it as coherent light? I know there are multiline argon lasers out there but each line has a specific wavelength, right?)

Even a 415nm Bluray will fluoresce like UV lights. It's close enough to the UV range to be lumped in with UV.

M