lazeerer
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Oh, I thought this was A DIY that you were doing yourself. I understand now. :thanks: Just wanted to make sure you dint loose a diode
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Help with my first DIY please
- Thread starter oic0
- Start date
Oh, I thought this was A DIY that you were doing yourself. I understand now. :thanks: Just wanted to make sure you dint loose a diode
Toke
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Cleanliness is important in soldering, both pipes and electronics.
If the solder will not flow over the tip of the iron it needs cleaning, one of those little sponges will do. (or a wet rag) Just wipe it when hot, then reapply solder.
If the solder will not flow over the tip of the iron it needs cleaning, one of those little sponges will do. (or a wet rag) Just wipe it when hot, then reapply solder.
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I used to burn through tips like crazy. At first it was because I would leave my iron on for way to long. I solved this by using a by using a box with a dimmer switch.
Second was learning how to take care of the tip before, during, and after use.
I also have been using a brass scouring type pad thing every now and then. This little thing makes your tip look like new every time.
Check out my 1, 2, 100 switch
Second was learning how to take care of the tip before, during, and after use.
I also have been using a brass scouring type pad thing every now and then. This little thing makes your tip look like new every time.
Check out my 1, 2, 100 switch
oic0
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I did the soldering of the resistors. When I hit the one on the end, as the droplet hit it, the sucker popped up. Ohwell, manual says that one can be removed at that setting so I did so.
The pot didnt seem to have a stop! I didn't want to spin it too many times and break it so I just stopped. I can't even guesstimate what the amperage is at. The laser runs good though and I can always mess with that later.
Edit, compared it to an arctic, arctic was much brighter, so I guess I dont have it turned up much. Probably 500-600mw. I'm not sure how to adjust that pot though how many turns do they go?
The pot didnt seem to have a stop! I didn't want to spin it too many times and break it so I just stopped. I can't even guesstimate what the amperage is at. The laser runs good though and I can always mess with that later.
Edit, compared it to an arctic, arctic was much brighter, so I guess I dont have it turned up much. Probably 500-600mw. I'm not sure how to adjust that pot though
how many turns do they go?
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Kevlar
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good "small" wire is must with these builds because of the small space plus they won't break the pins of your diode. Check with flaminpyro, he sells some of the best wire around for this stuff.
Also, you mentioned a cracked part on your driver? Could you take a picture of it and post it?
Also, you mentioned a cracked part on your driver? Could you take a picture of it and post it?
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If you're seeing copper on your soldering iron tip YOU'VE DAMAGED IT. The copper is only there to transfer heat, but it's a poor metal for actually dispensing solder. That's why the tips are nickel plated. The only reason you should ever sand or file a soldering iron is if you've already ruined it and you want to get a little more use out of it in desperation before you throw it away for a new one.
Keep your soldering iron tinned (i.e. covered in solder) at all times. When you first buy a soldering iron, the first thing you should do is coat the tip in solder (feed it). Put a blob of solder on the end of your soldering iron any time you're going to leave it for more than a minute (and that includes turning it off). The flux cleans the tip, the solder protects it from oxidizing. Wipe it off on your wet sponge when you're ready to do the actual soldering, and put a new blob on when you're not. When you do wipe off the blob after some time when you're ready to solder again, look at how gross and leathery the blob looks. Now imagine that happening to your iron when left in the air. Treat your tips right by coating them at all times!
Your soldering iron tip should last nearly forever when treated right. The wire tip cleaners are only there to catch and wipe off debris, and should not be used to the point that it is abrasive to the tip. It's probably not even necessary if you have a sponge.
Keep your soldering iron tinned (i.e. covered in solder) at all times. When you first buy a soldering iron, the first thing you should do is coat the tip in solder (feed it). Put a blob of solder on the end of your soldering iron any time you're going to leave it for more than a minute (and that includes turning it off). The flux cleans the tip, the solder protects it from oxidizing. Wipe it off on your wet sponge when you're ready to do the actual soldering, and put a new blob on when you're not. When you do wipe off the blob after some time when you're ready to solder again, look at how gross and leathery the blob looks. Now imagine that happening to your iron when left in the air. Treat your tips right by coating them at all times!
Your soldering iron tip should last nearly forever when treated right. The wire tip cleaners are only there to catch and wipe off debris, and should not be used to the point that it is abrasive to the tip. It's probably not even necessary if you have a sponge.
Kevlar
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Aww, nickel plated, not zinc as I had said, thanks for the correct info!!!
BTW, this is some of the best soldering advice I've seen!!! Nice one BB!! Thanks!!
oic0
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/sigh I must have messed up the jumpers or something. It doesn't even melt trashbag all that fast.
oic0
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Hows this look for the jumpers?
