Guide to Harvesting the Lite On 12X Diode

With the the availibility of these sleds I thought I would update my 12X Lite On Harvesting Tutorial with a lot more detail.


Also if you would like to see more of my reviews and tutorials please visit my compilation page.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/d...ting-compilation-thread-56450.html#post797151





First get a Lite On 12X Sled.









Here are some shots of what the sled looks like.










Remember to use good ESD precautions. You can get an ESD wristband or there is a spay in a can that will take any static charge out of you workspace. Don't risk your new shinny diode to the evil static monster because you did not want to take the right precautions.:banghead:






I start with cutting all the ribbons on the top of the sled.








Then flip it over and cut all the ribbons on the bottom side.









Remove all the screws on the back.









Then just pry it off with your screwdriver.







When you get it off you can now see the diodes.








Now flip it over and take out the screw holding the board in.







There are two tabs that hold the board in place.








Just break them off with a flat screwdriver or with a pair of needle nose pliers.






Now the board is free and you can make sure that you have all the ribbons cut.









Next flip it back over and use a small flat head screwdriver to work the diode out.






When you get it out you have the diode in a heatsink and an optical assembly attached to the front.






Get you small screwdriver and pry it off.









When you are done you are left with the diode and heatsink.







I like to put it in my helping hands while I remove the ribbon.





The rest of the process I did with video.




First to get the ribbon off the diode I preload some solder on my iron and dab it on the pins while pulling on the ribbon.








Once the ribbon is removed I like to take two pair of pliers and contort the heatsink back and fourth. This loosens the diode inside the heatsink.










The final step is to remove the diode from it's heatsink. I have been told on my previous tutorial that this step should be described in better detail. I use a small flat topped screw that is the same diameter as the diode head. Please be very careful to make sure that the diode is now loose from when you contorted the heatsink in the previous step. If the diode was not loosened in the previous step you can damage your diode window.







I screw it into the head of the heatsink and it pushes out the diode very nicely.











And your done. You can now mount your diode in an module.:beer:

For more info on pressing your diode and soldering the wires see my hot kit assembly tutorial. It was done with a 445 diode but the pinout is the same as the 405.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-3405-build-tips-50930-2.html#post754769




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Man! That is a sweet tutorial... !

... I pushed the diode out too...

... Be careful not to break that window folks ... !

I'll copy the link if you don't mind... :beer:

(P.S. ya'll doing this fo' yo'selves? Please cushion yo' diode 'fore it fall! :na: )

M

Nice pictures and explanation of the sled harvest!

Getting the diode out of the stock heatsink is definitely the tricky part. I don't think there is really and 'easy' way to do it...

But I would say that using something to push on the can is kind of taking a chance on damaging the diode window.

But if your sure it's nice and loose inside of it's heatsink, then I'm sure it's fine.

But it better be loose!

DTR is talented enough to know he could use a bolt. But if you don't know that the diode is loose enough, then you could easily damage the window...

Pushing the diode out is the hardest part of the whole job. That is why I use the two pliers to try and loosen it. Typically after that it comes out pretty easy with the screw that I use.

The adhesive used seems to break pretty easily. It's a clean, "Snap!", when the joint goes. At least on the ones I've tried it's been that way. Some glues hold really tight but this one, (is a kind of black translucent glue), gives way early and cleanly.

M

I harvested one the other night (thanks for sending that Morgan!), and I must say that it is the hardest diode harvest I have seen yet. (removing it from the stock heatsink)

I was able to break one of the corners off after clipping the edges slightly.

After that, the edge of the diode case was visible, and I could pry it with a sharp knife.

But no method is easy for this one...

Maybe Mohrenberg's file method would be a good alternative...

Flaminpyro's 6x GGW extracting tool works quite well once you've clipped the corners off the heatsink, even a tiny bit. You have to use a dead, canned diode as a die but it works well enough.

It will take some refining but I do think the best and least destructive way is to find a nice, 'flat', push on the front of the diode, avoiding the window.

M

jayrob said:

I harvested one the other night (thanks for sending that Morgan!) , and I must say that it is the hardest diode harvest I have seen yet. (removing it from the stock heatsink)

I was able to break one of the corners off after clipping the edges slightly.

After that, the edge of the diode case was visible, and I could pry it with a sharp knife.

But no method is easy for this one...

Maybe Mohrenberg's file method would be a good alternative...

Click to expand...

No problem... !



Flaminpyro's 6x GGW extracting tool works quite well once you've clipped the corners off the heatsink, even a tiny bit. You have to use a dead, canned diode as a die but it works well enough.

It will take some refining but I do think the best and least destructive way is to find a nice, 'flat', way to push on the front of the diode, avoiding the window.

M

Now that the 12X is obtainable for those on a tight budget this tut comes at an excellant time. The hoopla over the Kasio has subsided somewhat and the 12X is a must have.

Thanks for another great contribution to the forum. Def. 'Rookie of the Year' skillz.

rep you again when I can--TY for the personal help too!!!!:wave:

cheers Hak

:thanks:

hakzaw1 said:

Now that the 12X is obtainable for those on a tight budget this tut comes at an excellant time. The hoopla over the Casio has subsided somewhat and the 12X is a must have.

Thanks for another great contribution to the forum. Def. 'Rookie of the Year' skillz.

rep you again when I can--TY for the personal help too!!!!:wave:

cheers Hak

:thanks:

Click to expand...

Anytime.:beer:

Glad you found the tutorial helpful.

Bookmarking this!

I didn't happen to see any type of static protection, either a wrist strap or a grounded matt to work on, did you use static spray ?
The bolt is good if you know how to use it but I can see people sending me there diodes to DE-CAN in the furture !
why not use something like my diode "outie" press that can't dammage the diode's window as it can't touch it.
if you just put it in place and push the diode should just pop out, esp if you break the glue seam first !

Peace All...

I love it. Keep the suggestions coming guys.

I will add a bit about ESD protection to the OP. Any suggestions on products that I should recommend.

I cut the 'female' end from an extra PC power cord and removed all but the round ground plug from the other end.

. I hardwired my wriststrap to the green wire and just plug it into the wall. If for some reason this is not a good idea someone plz let me know.

hk

Updated the OP with a little info on ESD protection but still waiting on some input on suggested products. For instance do some wrist bands work better than others is one antistatic spray better than another? Is Hakzaw's Idea a good one?

hakzaw1 said:

I cut the 'female' end from an extra PC power cord and removed all but the round ground plug from the other end.

. I hardwired my wriststrap to the green wire and just plug it into the wall. If for some reason this is not a good idea someone plz let me know.

hk

Click to expand...

It could be a problem for someone colour/stripes blind.
The wall outlet should have the best earth in the house.
I recommend testing it first, a neutral to ground should give you a blackout.