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Old 05-26-2011, 01:23 PM #1
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Default Fried diode and driver?

Hello guys,

Today I made a stupid mistake of inserting 2 RCR123a batteries for as total of 8 V into my laser thinking that it will replace a 18650 battery, but then i realized that max input voltage of my microboost driver is around 6 V. The laser diode doesn't give off any light anymore, so I drove it directly via one 18650 battery and the diode still wont work. I tested the output voltage of the driver and it was around 0.5 V when it used to give off around 13 V if memory serves well. Can I comfortably conclude that both my diode and my driver are fried? Where is the best place to get a new A140 diode and a flex drive v5 driver?

Thanks!


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Old 05-26-2011, 01:47 PM #2
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Default Re: Fried diode and driver?

You have probably just fried the driver.

Unless something else happens while you are fixing it, your diode MAY still be OK.

Peace,
dave
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:03 PM #3
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Default Re: Fried diode and driver?

Try testing the driver with a meter and see if anything passes through.
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:50 PM #4
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Default Re: Fried diode and driver?

Quote:
Originally Posted by elnicodor View Post
Try testing the driver with a meter and see if anything passes through.
I did, only .5 V make it through. I threw both the driver and the diode away because they were both fried and now I need to find a source of drivers and diodes.
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:55 PM #5
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Default Re: Fried diode and driver?

Try DTR or DaQuin for diodes. Flaminpyro for driver.
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Old 09-13-2012, 10:55 AM #6
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Default Re: Fried diode and driver?

I've had some success with "bricked" diodes ie ones which measure about 50 to 100 ohms on the meter in both directions.
Usually only one tiny area of the junction close to the bond wire is "fried" and my technique has revived at least one burner diode to 30% of its previous power.
Enough for a useable beam but no longer burns, ideal for board etchers and other fun stuff (tm)

Nothing you can do with a blown bond wire, I have tried this with a few diodes and only one out of six had any light at all.
I have theorised that electroplating *could* work but $Deity knows what that will do to the fragile junction and output filter/window.

I also found that often the blown diodes can be used as UV sensors if they measure at least 1K or above in both directions but no longer lase or emit a dull glow..

-A
#include "youcannotbeserious.h"

Last edited by conundrum; 09-13-2012 at 10:57 AM.
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