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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Flexdrive Driver Heatsink for Continuous driver duty cycle @ 1.5A
- Thread starter DTR
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DTR
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You can use the case pin(marked "Not Used" in the picture) for the driver negative input. Also if you are using a flexdrive you can just bridge the case pin and the negative pin and just run the positive and negative wires from the driver to the diode and have nothing connected to the negative input on the driver. However you can't do this with a microboost driver. That driver must be set up with the case pin to the driver negative input.
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Im using a micro flexdrive v5. i have the negative and the case pin bridged and a wire going from the negative to the flexdrive to the heatsink, but it is a bad connection, so when i breaks the laser turns off. i have tried bypassing the negative all together on the flex but it doesnt work.
You can use the case pin(marked "Not Used" in the picture) for the driver negative input. Also if you are using a flexdrive you can just bridge the case pin and the negative pin and just run the positive and negative wires from the driver to the diode and have nothing connected to the negative input on the driver. However you can't do this with a microboost driver. That driver must be set up with the case pin to the driver negative input.
DTR
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I would check to see if there is paint on the top lip that the heatsink sits on. Sometimes it needs to be sanded to allow a connection through the heasink.
Blord
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What happens to the flexdrive that is doing at max 1.3A current ? Did you find out what is wrong with it ?
I sand down the top of the Aurora C6 pill and heatsink the flexdrive on it. Artic ceramique paste was used on the chip and heat conducting silicon glue for the pcb.
The flex was set on max setting and I get max 1.3A from the flex. I measure directly the current from the 445nm diode with the Fluke dmm. No matter how I turn the pot I always get 1.3A max :thinking:
I sand down the top of the Aurora C6 pill and heatsink the flexdrive on it. Artic ceramique paste was used on the chip and heat conducting silicon glue for the pcb.
The flex was set on max setting and I get max 1.3A from the flex. I measure directly the current from the 445nm diode with the Fluke dmm. No matter how I turn the pot I always get 1.3A max :thinking:
eytyxhs
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Please Help ME! how to remove the Flexdrive From heatsink i use Arctic Silver ASTA-7G!
HELP me!
HELP me!
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DTR
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I think that the resistors may not have been soldered correctly. I ended up breaking off some components when removing so it was trash. The replacement worked just fine.
Well you can try to very carefully use a razor blade to cut it off but I have lost drivers trying to remove them after they had been glued. It is a tricky operation not to break anything off.
Blord
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I use heat conducting silicon to bond the driver to the heatsink. The bond is very strong and it is easy to remove.
eytyxhs
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@DTR i Remove it! the Driver works!! thanks!!!!!
eytyxhs
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The FXdrive at 1.25A need heatsink?
for 10min continuous.
for 10min continuous.
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eytyxhs
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:anyone:
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@eytyxhs
maybe. You will risk the driver by not heatsinking it?
maybe. You will risk the driver by not heatsinking it?
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See my thread. My V5 flexdrive at 1.3A gets to over 135 degrees centigrade after about 50 seconds of running, and hits the thermal limiter.
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^
his thread link: http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/flexdrive-thermal-limiter-60520.html
his thread link: http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/flexdrive-thermal-limiter-60520.html
DTR
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You will want to sink the driver for any current over 1A if you want to run without a duty cycle for the driver.
