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Flexdrive Driver Heatsink for Continuous driver duty cycle @ 1.5A

DTR

DTR

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Crazy Jay said:
Glad to hear that the driver was the problem ... well not glad that it got damaged DTR :D but rather that the host can still provide the ability to run this diode at high power levels.

So the resistor stays on then huh
Click to expand...

Apparently it does stay on. I just am not sure why he bothers to say to remove it in his manual?;)
 





drlava

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Hi, yes that last resistor can stay on. I've updated the shipping manual for the latest batch of V5's to fix this.
 
Crazy Jay

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DrLava how much for a V5 with wires attached?
That's if you can do that...
 
DTR

DTR

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drlava said:
Hi, yes that last resistor can stay on. I've updated the shipping manual for the latest batch of V5's to fix this.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. That will make it a little easier to set these up.:beer:
 
DTR

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Alright I threw in a new Flexdrive in the 18650 Aurora Cree and now it is running like a beast:eg:.

 
Crazy Jay

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YES!! I knew it!

Just over 200mw loss past 3 minutes! Excellent DTR, excellent :wave:

Man you don't know how happy that makes me
 
jkardon1992

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alright im kinda a n00b so i have alot of questions.
first off i dont really have to tools to sand down the dollar, is that okay if i just leave it as is?
second off, is there any difference between the posotive wire and the negative wire besides which one you solder it to and the color? like are they both just blank wireS?
also i didnt really see where the negative wire was connected too, i got that the potisitive purple wire was soldered to the screw from the other side, but i didnt really see where the green one was soldered too...

okay lemme get this striaght,
on the pill, trill a hole through the board, solder a spring on, and solder the positive purple wire in the center to the spring, then, attach the green wire to the other wire comming from the edge of the board on the inside, and put those both through the holes in the coin to the drives positive and negative pads? then attach wire to the output of the driver to the wires from the diode? :thinking:
 
jkardon1992

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do yo u think the new Rckstr driver would work fine instead of the driver you used?
 
DTR

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jkardon1992 said:
do yo u think the new Rckstr driver would work fine instead of the driver you used?
Click to expand...

I don't remember the specs on the Rckstr but I can tell you that you don't want it for a 445 build and this thread is about the maxing out a flexdrive without overheating issues. Check out some of the sticky's.

You might want to start here.:beer:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/i-want-build-laser-thread-52972.html#post740462

Also FYI double posting is frowned upon. You can use the edit button on your post to add info.;)

welcome.gif
to the forum.
 
jkardon1992

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i read that other thread, and im technically building a 405nm. do you think that would be okay?
 
Morgan

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^Only powering it and fitting a larger driver like the RKCSTR into this small space. It's a linear driver, not a buck/boost driver like the Flexdrive, (unless things have changed since I last used a RKCSTR and they are now boost drivers). Check the specs in the sales threads for both.


I've been watching this thread with interest and the simple solutions are great! I have one thing to add though. With really good heatsinking of the diode and the driver, I've noticed with my 18650 host that the body gets close to too hot to hold. This shows that the heat is effectively moved to the outside of the host but at that point you start to heat the battery compartment and that's risky with these lithium-ions. The host being so small limits how much heat can be radiated. Continuous duty cycle it may be, but if you can't touch it...

Just my observations and I still like the solutions from DTR! ;)

M
:)
 
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