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First Build - Need Advice/Direction

Tonka742

Tonka742

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Hi there,
I am new to this forum and have joined because of a sudden interest in lasers. After doing some research on YouTube and on this forum I have decided to attempt to build a 532nm Green laser for myself.

After finding a variety of videos I have come up with the parts I think I am going to use and would appreciate it if anyone could confirm if they will all work together and/or if I need something else/different.

Parts list:
Module/Diode/Driver: 200mW 532nm Green Laser Module (3V 11.9mm) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
Host: DIY C6 Host Assembly
Heatsink: Black Anodized Aluminum Heat Sink


I was also wondering, because of the host, if I would need one of these: Survival Laser Driver

I would also like to know if the Diode and driver could take the RCR123A, CR123A or 18650 which are 3.7v I believe and the module says 3v on the sale page(not sure if this would affect it or not) as well as if this will all work.

I am from the UK if it makes any difference.

Thanks in advance :):p
 





paul1598419

paul1598419

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Tonka742, I looked over what you have ordered and it looks like everything you got will work. A few things you need to know about DPSSLs. First, the module is positive because the 808nm IR laser diode in it is case positive. Second, when you put it together, You can cut the wires off because the switch on the host will turn it on and off. Third, the battery needs to go in negative side first, and you need to put a spring contact on the end of the driver board to make connection with the battery. The switch on the driver board needs to be shorted out, or removed and a piece of wire put in its place. If you do all this correctly, you will have a nice green laser. Make sure that you observe the polarity of the battery. Good luck.
 
Tonka742

Tonka742

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paul1598419, Thanks for the quick reply, so if i cut off the wires and attach a spring to the driver, I then wont need the Survival Laser Driver in order to connect the batteries to the driver, is this correct, if so, when making the laser, should i completely remove the driver pill.

Also do you recommend shorting the switch or removing it with wire and which batteries should i use?

Thanks again
 
Pi R Squared

Pi R Squared

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That module is too long for a C6, you have to use the drilled pill even with the standard 30mm modules, however there was a thread here where someone did just this and I think with the same parts and you could see that the module was sticking out the front a considerable distance.

Alan
 
paul1598419

paul1598419

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No, you will need a host. And if the host doesn't come with a heat sink, you'll need that as well. The overall length of the module is 30mm and the driver adds length to that. The place where the black wire comes off the driver board is at the end, or very close to the end of the driver and that is where the spring contact will go. The diameter of the module is about 12mm and 30mm long and you will want a heat sink that is that long. The positive contact will be through the host and at the end where the battery goes in. If you do it this way, you won't need to deal with wires at all. Hope this helps.
P.S. you will need a single Li-ion battery. They are 3.7 volts and preferably a rechargeable one. It depends on the host you use what battery you will use. I prefer the 18650 for a build like this.
 
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IsaacT

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The C6 will work fine, just don't use a pill. The module should be set in the heatsink with the set screw. Try different spring sizes until you find one that allows a 16340 or 18350 battery to fit snugly in the battery tube remainder. The module is fine to float. Just make sure the battery isn't pressing too hard on the spring. Just a small amount of pressure will do.
 
paul1598419

paul1598419

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WBS knows more about this particular module than I do. I measured the module length of my 200mW and they are 35mm long. The module with the driver is 52-53mm long. I don't know for sure the length of the ones from FASTTECH. But, a 16430 battery is probably a good battery to use for this build. You won't need a large spring for the driver. Actually, the spring is quite small, being about 20mm in length or less. You may have to try some ones out to see what works best.
 
Pi R Squared

Pi R Squared

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Tonka, if you use a C6 host then you have to use an 18650 battery, and short the switch on the module with a piece of wire, and that module with its attached driver is 60mm (a little long for a C6). If you do build it this way then please post photos of what you did, there is more than one way to do everything and others can learn from it.

Alan
 
IsaacT

IsaacT

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They are all roughly the same size. Just a note to OP: don't expect 200mW. For awhile fasttech was the hotspot for obtaining cheap powerful 532 modules. Then they got a diff supplier if I remember right and quality went down. Expect closer to 40mW or so for a 200mW version. One thing I will be attempting soon it making my own using IR diodes I have and left over crystals. For that, any cheap module will work splendidly.
 
IsaacT

IsaacT

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Brb with a picture diagramming how to achieve this. BTW it will be easier with an Aurora SH032 host. Simply because you won't need to strip any anodizing.
 
paul1598419

paul1598419

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If that module with driver is 60mm long, then it must also include the spring contact at the end of the driver. My 200mW modules with driver and no spring is 52mm long. And that is a long module too. There are modules that are less than 35mm in length. I don't know the C6 host, but it may take an 18650 battery. That would give you more time between charges than a 16340 battery would.
 
IsaacT

IsaacT

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The C6 host is 122mm long or so.
My Fasttech 532nm module is 40mm from base of brass to front optics.
My fasttech module's driver takes up an additional 18mm.
Need a spring as well.


58mm + xmm(spring) + 34mm(16340) =~= 100mm(C6 - Tailcap)
So use a spring roughly 5-8mm in length.

DONT forget to strip the anodizing off the interior of the C6 host. If you don't want to bother, check out the Aurora SH-032 Host. Send it to Mrcrouse and he can make a heatsink for it.

Here is a link to my SH-032 Fasttech build for reference. Feel free to ask for the same heatsink I did.

It appears I didn't put an assembly pic up in that thread. But if you link the thread to Mrcrouse I bet he will remember. It was a great laser. Sold it to an international member a while back or I would take it apart and show you pics.
 
Pi R Squared

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According to the specs that module is 2.44 inch or 61.976 mm, and 60mm is a common size for modules like that.

A C6 normally uses an 18650 or two 16340.

Alan
 
IsaacT

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Pi R Squared said:
According to the specs that module is 2.44 inch or 61.976 mm, and 60mm is a common size for modules like that.

A C6 normally uses an 18650 or two 16340.

Alan
Click to expand...

Think outside the box man. If you don't put the pill in there, instead allowing the modules length to extend into the battery tube, you can take up one of the 16340's spots with the driver and spring. Or half of an 18650. You are not required to use whatever battery setup is most common in anything. You can use whatever you want if you set it up right. The method I showed above, which I have done multiple times, is completely viable and works flawlessly provided you can either (a) strip the interior anodizing off of the front(where it touches heatsink) or (b) use a shall of a pill which would only be there for a contact point(which would have to be obtained either through soldering(difficult to do with the aluminum pill shell due to its heatsinking properties) or some type of adhesive bond capable of conducting current).

As mentioned however, I recommend an Aurora host or some other unanodized host much more than a C6. Weird. I would use the EXACT same method for an Aurora host even though it is usually an 18650 host.

PS - I have the module in my hands and it is 57.42mm long.
 
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Pi R Squared

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wannaburnstuff said:
Think outside the box man. If you don't put the pill in there, instead allowing the modules length to extend into the battery tube, you can take up one of the 16340's spots with the driver and spring. Or half of an 18650. You are not required to use whatever battery setup is most common in anything. You can use whatever you want if you set it up right. The method I showed above, which I have done multiple times, is completely viable and works flawlessly provided you can either (a) strip the interior anodizing off of the front(where it touches heatsink) or (b) use a shall of a pill which would only be there for a contact point(which would have to be obtained either through soldering(difficult to do with the aluminum pill shell due to its heatsinking properties) or some type of adhesive bond capable of conducting current).

As mentioned however, I recommend an Aurora host or some other unanodized host much more than a C6. Weird. I would use the EXACT same method for an Aurora host even though it is usually an 18650 host.

PS - I have the module in my hands and it is 57.42mm long.
Click to expand...

Ok I agree, it sounds like it may fit well without the pill and using a 16340 or a 18350.

I think your right about using another unanodized host, that would certainly make it easier, and in the OP he was also planning on using an anodized heat sink. The heat sink should also be unanodized.

Alan
 
Tonka742

Tonka742

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Okay, thanks all,

I'm now a bit lost as what to do, could someone clarify exactly what I need to buy or get made and exactly what I have to do, De-anodizing for example?

Again I am in the UK so it may be difficult to get parts made for me but I don't really know.

Sorry if i'm being silly but this is my first build and i would like to get it right:p

Thanks again

Tonka
 
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