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- Dec 11, 2015
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It's about time I put this thread together, here's how to assemble my hosts. I'd say it's easy to grasp, and the process is identical for every host I make.
Materials
All are included unless otherwise stated:
Heatsink: The one shown in the image is threaded, however some are not and will require the thermal adhesive (or any adhesive of your choice) to bond to the host body
Thermal adhesive: While it's best to use a thermal adhesive so the host body can be part of the heatsink, the most important factor is mechanical stability. The last thing you want is that heatsink coming loose, so chose your adhesive (I'd recommend epoxy) wisely. Keep in mind that the bonding surfaces will already be roughened and sometimes include machining marks, which is good for the adhesive to latch onto. And saves me from having to treat the surface
Host body: The handle/battery bay of the host
Contact plug: 3D printed with plastic, and therefore insulates the two power lines (positive and negative) from each other. Uses a bolt and a nut, very simple, no soldering required.
Case negative module: Any laser module of your choice with an integrated driver, as long as the amount of batteries meet the input requirement on the driver. The module needs to be case negative, or at least have some sort of case connection. This is very easy to do by just having the negative input of the driver soldered to the case pin on the diode with a very short wire, all internally. I haven't even done this myself, because if you ask DTR nicely he'll do it for you
It can be done without a case signal, but the way of doing that with my build method is pretty unconventional.
Tools
Vise: I make the heatsinks with an interference fit (AKA press-fit) for DTR's modules, which can be pressed in with a vice using moderate strength. An interference fit is best for thermal transfer, no thermal grease necessary. The type of vise I'm using here is a 4" drill press vise.
Trigger clamp (or any clamp really): Used for holding the contact plug in while the adhesive is drying. A good idea might be to use a larger clamp when gluing the heatsink to the body if it's not threaded.
Tutorial
It's easy!
This is optional, but I like to line the bottom of the vise with duct tape to prevent any scratches:
Start off by pressing the module into the heatsink:
Once that's done, strip the wire and make a "hook" shape as shown:
Hook the wire onto the bolt and tighten down the nut:
Put on a thin coat of adhesive on the contact plug, and clamp it in place to dry. Set time will depend on the adhesive you use
Your heatsink should look a little something like this:
Remember, if the heatsink isn't threaded, make sure to be aware of the importance for this part - Mix the adhesive for a good minute or two (if using a type of epoxy), spread evenly (light coat) and clamp together. Wipe off any excess while you can, because you won't be able to get it off once it's cured.
Ready for batteries!
-E.P.
Materials
All are included unless otherwise stated:
Heatsink: The one shown in the image is threaded, however some are not and will require the thermal adhesive (or any adhesive of your choice) to bond to the host body
Thermal adhesive: While it's best to use a thermal adhesive so the host body can be part of the heatsink, the most important factor is mechanical stability. The last thing you want is that heatsink coming loose, so chose your adhesive (I'd recommend epoxy) wisely. Keep in mind that the bonding surfaces will already be roughened and sometimes include machining marks, which is good for the adhesive to latch onto. And saves me from having to treat the surface
Host body: The handle/battery bay of the host
Contact plug: 3D printed with plastic, and therefore insulates the two power lines (positive and negative) from each other. Uses a bolt and a nut, very simple, no soldering required.
Case negative module: Any laser module of your choice with an integrated driver, as long as the amount of batteries meet the input requirement on the driver. The module needs to be case negative, or at least have some sort of case connection. This is very easy to do by just having the negative input of the driver soldered to the case pin on the diode with a very short wire, all internally. I haven't even done this myself, because if you ask DTR nicely he'll do it for you
It can be done without a case signal, but the way of doing that with my build method is pretty unconventional.Tools
Vise: I make the heatsinks with an interference fit (AKA press-fit) for DTR's modules, which can be pressed in with a vice using moderate strength. An interference fit is best for thermal transfer, no thermal grease necessary. The type of vise I'm using here is a 4" drill press vise.
Trigger clamp (or any clamp really): Used for holding the contact plug in while the adhesive is drying. A good idea might be to use a larger clamp when gluing the heatsink to the body if it's not threaded.
Tutorial
It's easy!
This is optional, but I like to line the bottom of the vise with duct tape to prevent any scratches:
Start off by pressing the module into the heatsink:
Once that's done, strip the wire and make a "hook" shape as shown:
Hook the wire onto the bolt and tighten down the nut:
Put on a thin coat of adhesive on the contact plug, and clamp it in place to dry. Set time will depend on the adhesive you use
Your heatsink should look a little something like this:
Remember, if the heatsink isn't threaded, make sure to be aware of the importance for this part - Mix the adhesive for a good minute or two (if using a type of epoxy), spread evenly (light coat) and clamp together. Wipe off any excess while you can, because you won't be able to get it off once it's cured.
Ready for batteries!
-E.P.
