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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

EDIT : Optics question / PICTURES ADDED, because a thread is worthless w/o pics

Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
536
Points
18
Hello everyone, I'd like to repair this laser from LikeItBright.

OPTICS QUESTION : SKIP THIS POST (If you want to save time), AND GO TO THE NEXT REPLY.

However, it seems that he is majorly inactive by now (his last post was in 2010, although the last time he was here was just about a month ago, I have PMed him about three weeks ago, and have not recieved a message ever since), hence now I am asking you guys some advice.

I basically want to change the modules, because the one inside is broken.

I have very limited items at my disposal (you've got to thank this country for not being DIYers), but I probably can get ahold of certain tools such as soldering irons, antistatic wristbands, pliers and the such. My main concern is identifying if the module is press fitted or not, or some other obscure technique (like sorcery) I am unaware of which can not be remedied by simple tools.

For one, I am not sure how it is called the action of taking out the module from the host (don't know what to look for). I was wondering if special tools were needed. Also, if you notice the module (still in a anti-static bag) has a screw thread over it (see pictures below), whereas the complete laser itself doesn't show any sign of that threading. So could it be that the module is screwed in the host, and therefore I should use some pliers and remove it by twisting (in the widdershins direction) ? Or should I pull with brute force with that same tool ? Also, should I push or pull, or both, assuming the module isn't screwed in the host, but rather inserted ? I hope this question can be answered by people who have dealt with O-like green modules and the such. (Should it be taken out by some obscure method, I'll have to ask one of the guys here to do it for me :/)

Secondly, by looking at the pictures, you may notice that it is in a anti-static bag. Is it necessary to get an anti-static wristband ? Although I am not directly dealing with sensitive components, just the switch.

Finally, I am kind of guessing that the switch is to be shorted by connecting the A or/and B to C or/and D, amirite ?

Thanks for the help, and thanks for reading that fairly long text for those who are in need of time.

PS:: I would not want to rip of the circuit board from the brass diode housing (it looks pretty delicate considering how it is only connected by three solder joints). I am also unaware of the exact name of the host, but it is very similar to this one.
 

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Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
536
Points
18
EDIT : Now need help with optics.

So I went on trial and error, asking help to PhD students who provided me some decent tools, because there was apparently no one that could help me through the internet, apparently. :whistle:

Skip this part if you are in a hurry (story of my life) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Using brute force worked. I did a pretty bad job at the soldering part, and shorted three parts of the four switch that didn't work, and melted bit of the circuit board in the process (soldering iron set at 270 Celcius, I thought 350 was too high, hence the solder took more time to melt than it took for the plastic circuit boards, as well as the switch connectors -_-)

But besides my terrible DIY skills, it lases properly, which is quite relieving as I did not use ESDs or proper stuff to hold the circuit board, the solder, and the wire and the iron (just blue tack).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Still no reply ?

forever-alone.jpg


Now my problem is, it seems again that I have terrible luck when it comes to laser modules. While the power output is good (indeed well over 100mW), the divergence of this is terrible. And in terrible I mean awful, and by awful, I am wondering if there is not a missing lens, because it just look like a green polarised flashlight. Because unlike the previous module (3.8mRad), the divergence is about 13mRad. The beam profile can be found in the attachments below.


Image description:
There is a sweet spot at around 5cm from aperture (BD@A < 0.2mm), beam diameter @ aperture is 0.4mm (it is very hard to get an accurate measurement, especially at the f.l, because at the focal length, the black markings on my ruler start smoking !). The divergence calculated by pseudo's 137 calculator is 13 +/- 0.15 mRad.

So now I am asking an optics question. As long as I know the location of the f.l of the laser, I can put a biconcave lens whose "imaginary" focal length equals the f.l from the aperture of the laser minus half of its thickness (i.e in this case, about 4.75 cm of f.l is required if the lens is to be positioned at the aperture, assuming a biconcave lens of 5mm in thickness). Am I right ?
 

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