Double check this please.

I'm building a M462 into a Kryton. I came up with this and need to know if there is a problem with my idea. I soldered a spring to the neg lead at the contact boards to make contact with the host. The spring is stiff enough to ensure good pressure and solid contact. I made sure the anodizing is sanded off inside the host. So my plan is to connect the pos and neg leads to the driver.

I installed a battery and connected the contact board leads to a hobby motor using this spring idea and the motor ran fine.
Am I good to go?

Just a few questions

Does the motor draw the same current as
the laser will?

Did you let the motor run for a while?

What metal is this spring?

If you quickly take the board out and the
spring is hot, that is a problem.

Check your PM's. BTW you dont need the case pin, the way you have it wired to the driver is correct.:beer:

The Lightning Stalker said:

Just a few questions

Does the motor draw the same current as
the laser will?

Did you let the motor run for a while?

What metal is this spring?

If you quickly take the board out and the
spring is hot, that is a problem.

Click to expand...

Not sure what the motor draws. Its a 3V-9V hobby motor. The spring came from a contact spring made for electronics so I assume its a good conductor. Motor ran for only 20 seconds maybe less. It ran inconsistent but was hooked up direct to the battery. No driver.

grainde said:

Check your PM's. BTW you dont need the case pin, the way you have it wired to the driver is correct.:beer:

Click to expand...

Thanks again for your help buddy. Ill give the copper nail a try. Its so hard getting solder down into the host which is why I went with the spring idea but see now that its flawed.

Just because it's from electronics, that
doesn't mean it can handle over an amp of
current. The test device should draw at
least as much current as the load you plan
to attach, preferably more. The copper
nail will work much better. Just make sure
it is actually copper. There are such
things in the world as copper plated steel
nails.

It'll be fine. Although I can't reconcile why LPF is in love with copper because it's "such a good conductor" and yet still uses steel springs. 26awg for 3A never made sense to me either. I mean... sure it'll work, but copper wire is free if you pull it from old electronics, so why use something as teeny as 26awg?

It is good practice to use the thickest
wire that will fit into the holes in the
board, unless the holes are really big. In
that case it would depend on the current.
I actually prefer using aluminum for
heatsinks and hosts. Copper is such a pain
to machine, and touching it makes it smell
funny. It would make okay wire, too, if
solder stuck to it. There are only a few
cases where a copper heatsink is actually
necessary. It does look nice when it's
polished. It's just a shame it doesn't
stay that way.

The Lightning Stalker said:

... [aluminium] would make okay wire, too, if solder stuck to it.

Click to expand...

Solder does stick to it if you put a minuscule coating of copper on the outside. It's quite common.
Copper-clad aluminium wire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia