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Old 12-08-2014, 05:36 PM #1
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Default Don't laugh at me now.

Well I just received my host from Ehgemus. Which by the way is really beautiful. He does awesome work. I have the driver and diode in the module. On this host there is a single red wire coming up through the top which is where I connect the driver positive. So here is the noob part I am unsure of. Where do I connect the negative?


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Old 12-08-2014, 05:43 PM #2
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilz Rej3ct View Post
Well I just received my host from Ehgemus. Which by the way is really beautiful. He does awesome work. I have the driver and diode in the module. On this host there is a single red wire coming up through the top which is where I connect the driver positive. So here is the noob part I am unsure of. Where do I connect the negative?
The host is probably case negative, in which case the negative wire connects to the case. Most laser diodes have a case pin which can be used for this
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:46 PM #3
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

The host is indeed case negative. But my driver is already soldered to the diode. What am I supposed to do solder a wire to the host itself?
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:05 PM #4
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

The host I got from him recently already had a negative wire attached to the host right behind the heatsink. He used some black adhesive stuff to hold the negative wire. Hope this helps and post a picture if you can I'm sure someone will tell you an exact answer.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:05 PM #5
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilz Rej3ct View Post
The host is indeed case negative. But my driver is already soldered to the diode. What am I supposed to do solder a wire to the host itself?
You could do that, but aluminium is tricky to solder to.

What diode are you using?
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:07 PM #6
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

A140 445nm. Could I just solder the case pin on the diode to the negative lead on the diode? like bridge them together? Then I just connect the positive wire only to my driver and it should work yeah?
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:09 PM #7
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

A140 - Lasers Wiki

You can solder the negative wire onto the case pin (see pin out diagram from above link) or if the driver has a continuous ground you can bridge the negative and case pins.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:12 PM #8
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

I do not believe it is continuous ground. I have an X-Drive V7 mini.
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:16 PM #9
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

You may be able to just insert the end of the negative wire between the module and heat sink or between the heat sink and host, but without detailed photos it's hard for people to advise you.

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Old 12-08-2014, 06:20 PM #10
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

I just used a multimeter in continuity mode and checked the output ground of driver to input ground of driver and it beeped. So couldn't I just bridge the case pin of diode with negative pin?
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Old 12-08-2014, 06:34 PM #11
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

Yes that will work, if there is a wire already soldered to the case pin that would be easiest, if not be careful.

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Old 12-08-2014, 06:57 PM #12
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

I got it!!!!! I soldered a wire from case pin to the negative of driver. Works great, however the power kind of sucks. I got the 1.7 amp x-drive mini v7. I am using a single 18650 battery. Is this why? Should I use 2 18350's?
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:10 PM #13
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

Yeah you need 2 batteries
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650nm dollar store mini pen 5mW X2

808nm Wicked Lasers E2 400mW (peak 598mW)

Expanders & Googles etc:
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Dragon Lasers "new" 2x Beam Expander
Dragon Lasers DGTBF
Dragon Lasers LSG02 goggles 190-548nm
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Old 12-08-2014, 10:43 PM #14
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

Two 18350 or 16340 will also fit and then it will be way powerful, my M140 is driven at only 1.5A and is about 1.5W with a 3 element lens. Just don't buy those cheap generic blue batteries or they may only take a few minutes to drain at that power, also Ultrafire aren't so good either. Be sure to charge your batteries first. If your diode is an A140 I think you are overdriving it at 1.7A. Good luck.

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Old 12-08-2014, 11:19 PM #15
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

Thanks. I am using two Efest red batteries. 800 mAh each. Maybe I have an M130 then because I've always driven it at 1.7 amps and never had an issue. I thought the X-drive v7 could accept input of 2.5 volts? I figured one 18650 would be sufficient but apparently not. I don't get it?
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Old 12-08-2014, 11:25 PM #16
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Default Re: Don't laugh at me now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilz Rej3ct View Post
Thanks. I am using two Efest red batteries. 800 mAh each. Maybe I have an M130 then because I've always driven it at 1.7 amps and never had an issue. I thought the X-drive v7 could accept input of 2.5 volts? I figured one 18650 would be sufficient but apparently not. I don't get it?
The X-Drive doesn't boost voltage, so you still need to have diodes Vf+.
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405nm SkyLaser PL 300-500 - ~500mW (523mW);| SkyLaser LP 5-80 - 5mW
405nm SkyRay 12X S06J w/450mA microboost - 485mW :|: BDR-209 16X w/700mA microboost 2X in ZeroLasers SkyRay and Chunk hosts
445nm ZeroLaser 2x18650 host 9mm w/2.3A X-drive - 2.8W :|: Trustfire A8 9mm w/2.4A X-drive - "The Sentinel" ~3W
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