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FrozenGate by Avery

DIY: How to build a Burning Violet Laser

Joined
Jun 13, 2007
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Yeah, I know this has been posted somewhere else but it was written by me and I don't feel like finding the other thread. The reason why I am posting this is because I need a working link to a written tutorial of my video that doesn't link to a dead site.

Before you think "Oh that DIY stuff is too hard to understand", you should know that this guide has every electronic problem pre-calculated. In other words you don't need to know nearly anything about electronics to use this tutorial. Just follow the instructions and ask a few questions if you need to, and you should be set.

Here's the video link:




To build a ~100mW Violet Laser, here are the parts you'll need:

A PHR-803T Sled
A 100mA Driver (Just pick the 101mA driver)
An Aixiz Module

Start by pulling the Metal Protector off of the sled.
1.JPG


From there you'll see two laser diodes exposed, the one with three pins is the violet laser diode, the one with four pins is a weak Red/Ir combined diode. Practice extracting on the red/IR, if you mess up one the red/IR one it won't matter because that diode is useless for our purposes..
2.JPG


Next pull out the laser diode in its mini heatsink, you may have to put a little force into breaking it off from the rest of the sled. Be careful not to touch the diode during extracting because the glass window on the front can break easily
3.JPG


After that pull the diode in its mini heatsink out by grabbing the little ribbon cable and pulling on it.
4.JPG


To get the diode out of its little heatsink, grab both sides of the heatsink with two pairs of pliers and twist in opposite directions, this will crack the heatsink metal and the diode should fall out. If it doesn't just drop out, clip at the heatsink with some diagonal cutters (or something like them) until the diode falls out.
5.JPG


Now that you have your diode exposed, treat it with care because it is very fragile, the glass window on the front of the laser diode shatters easily.
6.JPG


Now drop the laser diode in the top half of the Aixiz module, put the back half of the module over the diode pins so the diode pins fit through the small hole in the back of the module.
7.JPG


Put this diode/module "sandwich" in a vice, try to keep the laser diode as aligned straight with the Aixiz module as much as possible.
8.JPG


Tighten the vice until the laser diode is flush with the Aixiz module (the little PCB on the back won't be flush, it will stick out a little which is fine)
9.JPG


Now put the top half of the Aixiz module in the vice
10.JPG


Now turn on your soldering gun and put a blob of solder on the tip of the gun
11.JPG


Drop the blob of solder on the diode pins and use you needle nose pliers to pull the PCB off while the solder is melted. Don't keep the soldering gun on the laser diode pins for more than a few seconds because your laser diode will die if it is heated too much.
12.JPG


For what you are going to do next, you will need to use this pin-out diagram.
brpo.JPG


To make things easier, you can just break off the "Not Used" pin of the laser diode
13.JPG


Now solder the "+LD" of the driver to the positive pin on the Laser Diode, and solder the "-GD" of the driver to the negative pin of the laser diode.
14.JPG


Now screw on the back half of the Aixiz module
15.JPG


Put the spring and lens back in the module
16.JPG


Grab a power supply that puts out 7.25v-12v, a 9v battery works perfect for this. Hook it up to the laser module and you are ready for some playing around!
17.JPG


You can light matches with ease:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHNOOGg1B9A



That is all for now, I'll add more if you guys think it is needed.
 
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Remove the PCB and ribbon cable BEFORE removing it from its heat sink. Pressing the diode into the module with it still attached can damage the pins and/or break the pin loose. Also, you need to add a step in which the diode is pressed into the module until it is recessed below the back surface of the module. If it is only pressed "flush" it may not be able to be focused at a distance.

Peace,
dave
 
awesome, I ordered all the parts. Also Stonetek doubled my order for free because it was the owners birthday (note for next year). cant wait!!! Also how long is the lifespan? My 75mw greenie needs a buddy!
 
daguin said:
Remove the PCB and ribbon cable BEFORE removing it from its heat sink. *Pressing the diode into the module with it still attached can damage the pins and/or break the pin loose. *Also, you need to add a step in which the diode is pressed into the module until it is recessed below the back surface of the module. *If it is only pressed "flush" it may not be able to be focused at a distance.

Peace,
dave
Very true. you have to remove that PCB with the diode in the heat sink. I like to put the heat sink in a vice and use a sharp flat tool (like a little knife) to get under the plastic and twist it up to remove it easily, then use the same tool to poke off the organe PCB ribbon.

As for focusing the PHR803T laser, you just need to not use the silver focusing knob on the end if using an Aixiz module (for $3.78 shipped, sorry had to throw this in here) if you just take it off you can twist the lens in further to focus it. Or you can use a Sure Electronics module's silver focusing lens which lets you screw the lens in further and closer to focus it out to infinity.

thanks,
Kendall
 
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WOW This is cool. I will make one, but PSX Boy's items are shipped from china. I live in the US and it says it could take 3 - 5 Weeks. I'm not waiting that long, so I did a little research and found the same sled for 14 $ (USD) At Laser Surplus Parts.

It uses UPS and ships in 2 - 5 days.

EDIT:
Why is "spammer" replaced with "sur-plus" (Without hyphen.)
 
Clickey said:
WOW This is cool. I will make one, but PSX Boy's items are shipped from china. I live in the US and it says it could take 3 - 5 Weeks. I'm not waiting that long, so I did a little research and found the same sled for 14 $ (USD) At Laser Surplus Parts.

It uses UPS and ships in 2 - 5 days.
There is many members on this forums that can provide you with PHR-803T & Drivers.

jake21,drew,Mohrenberg,charlie bruce,http://stonetek.org/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65&zenid=859ef272aa02007d477b5d07b10251b3Senkat


-Greg
 
is a 100mA Driver circuit the same as a DDL circuit with a 25-ohm pot instead of a 100-ohm pot. Cause I don't want to risk this diode's life.

I might use the red one for practice.
 
The amount of voltage you recommended, that's for a rckstr driver, right? I think this was the guide I was following a year ago and never finished and I've got a 90mA rckstr driver and need to know how much power to give it. 2 18650 3.7v batteries should do the trick, right?
 
I was confused about the process of inserting the diode into the module but the video cleared it up.

j03
 
styropyro, this is a great tutorial for new ones! :cool:
I will be referring everybody here now that I saw this...

Good job!
Jay
 
As for focusing the PHR803T laser, you just need to not use the silver focusing knob on the end if using an Aixiz module (for $3.78 shipped, sorry had to throw this in here) if you just take it off you can twist the lens in further to focus it.
People keep saying that, however I have no problem focusing the PHR in an Aixiz with the focusing ring. It goes in farther than with an LPC, but there's still maybe 0.5mm airspace (focused to infinity). I got the diode pressed into the module from Drew, so I don't know what method was used. It looks flush.
 
Great Blu-Ray Guide Styropyro, I wish I had seen this befor now.

Best Regards Flaminpyro...
 
awesome, I ordered all the parts. Also Stonetek doubled my order for free because it was the owners birthday (note for next year). cant wait!!! Also how long is the lifespan? My 75mw greenie needs a buddy!

can you tell me the exact day that you ordered from stone tek i despretly need free stuff:)
 
So I guess I'm just confused of what to do with that extra pin...break it off or not?
 
So I guess I'm just confused of what to do with that extra pin...break it off or not?

If it makes it easier to solder the + and - pin to the driver you can cut it off, just be sure you cut the correct pin or you are kinda screwed. If I am using a V2 rkcstr Micro-Drive drive (older version) I like to leave it on and solder it to one of the pads on the back of the board for extra stability.
 
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