DIY 100% PHR-803T Violet Laser Tutorial

DIY 100% BluRay Violet Laser Tutorial (PHR and KEM)

Hey everyone! This is my first tutorial, but I do have experience with other tutorial making! So I will be fine.

As a side note, my camera is not working ( So I don't have pictures yet.)

Also keep in mind that this tutorial is all DIY, You will be building the circuit for this project.

PHR 803T Laser Tutorial

Requirements:
PHR-803T/ Xbox 360 HD DVD Drive Laser Assembly
Laser Diode Module
Soldering equipment (Iron, Solder, maybe a solder bulb)
Needle nose pliers
Vice

DDL driver circuit equipment:
Multimeter with a mV (Milli-volt reading)
10 - Ohm Resistor
LM317T Voltage Regulator
47µF 35v Capacitor
Switch

Section 1 - Extracting the 405nm Laser Diode (Violet laser diode)

When you get your hands on a PHR-803T, Remove the screw that is glued in to the casing. This will reveal two laser diodes. The Protector will be on the side of the assembly. It will have two holes in it and one screw. (That's the screw you want to remove.)

When the casing is removed, you will see 2 Diodes, One with 4 pins, this is a red / IR laser diode. The one with 3 pins is the diode we will be using for this tutorial.

Put the PHR in a vice, allowing you to have access to the diode's circuit board. you will have to remove it. This is where a solder bulb will be very useful.

Use pliers to remove it from the rest of the assembly. It will be in a mini heat-sink attached by silicon.

There are other ways of harvesting the diode. Here is a video on YouTube.

When the circuit board is removed, try not to break any pins, break the wrong ones, you just destroyed your laser diode.

Take two pliers and slowly twist opposite ends of the heat-sink, NOT THE DIODE and slowly and carefully twist it. It will break easily. Now slowly break more heat-sink until you can remove the diode safely.

Be very careful with the diode, they are very fragile.

Installing the diode in a housing.

Remove the lens and spring from the module

Now take the 3 pins and put them through the back of the laser module. The longer half. and place it on the top half so the diode is in place, just not press fitted in. It might be easier to use thermal grease or paste to line the inside of the diode housing with for better heat transfer so it expands the life of the diode. Put it in a vice so it looks like this.



Tighten the vice so it looks like this:



Make press the diode in the module further. This is known as recessing the diode. This is so that the beam can be focused to infinity. (You cannot burn if it is set to infinity.)

Build a driver circuit based on this schematic:



Be sure that you run don't run anything above 30v through that circuit.

Also, If you wish to, you can hook up your DMM (Digital Multimeter) to the output leads and check your output levels. If everything runs good, you are ready to move on. But you MUST MUST MUST discharge the capacitor before doing anything. This is simply done by shorting the cap out. You could discharge on something else too, but just shorting it is enough to drain its power.

Solder the output leads from your circuit to the laser diode like so:



Enjoy your new PHR Laser.



KEM 400AAA Laser Tutorial

Requirements:
KEM-400AAA / Playstation 3 BluRay Drive Laser Assembly
Laser Diode Module
Soldering equipment (Iron, Solder, maybe a solder bulb)
Needle nose pliers
Vice

DDL driver circuit equipment:
Multimeter with a mV (Milli-volt reading)
15 - Ohm Resistor
LM317T Voltage Regulator
47µF 35v Capacitor
Switch

Start with the sled, and remove the screws to get the diode in it's heat-sink.

De-solder the circuit board and remove the diode from the heat-sink. This can be done by filing the heat-sink down, and bending it away from the diode.

Anyway let's move on to the circuit. The circuit is configured like so:


Replace the LD and PD with VLD and GND so you get the correct pin-out.



Install the diode in an Aixiz Laser module, the same way you would with the PHR 803T. (Read above this tutorial for instructions)

Once you solder the wires to the diode from the lead outputs from the circuit, you are done.

If you test the driver circuit before connecting to the diode be sure to discharge the capacitor. Just short the cap prior to diode hookup.

I know this tutorial is really vague, I plan to fix it up later.

There have been many of these threads, and most with the same content, but good thread anyway. Used good images and good descriptions.

Some constructive comments :

When the casing is removed, you will see 2 Diodes, [highlight]One with 4 pins, this is an open can red / IR laser diode.[/highlight] The one with 3 pins is the diode we will be using for this tutorial.

Click to expand...

This is not an open can. It's a close can (thus the metal jacket). Open cans look like the ones from the LPC-815 sleds.

In other words, [highlight]make the diode flush with the housing.[/highlight]

Click to expand...

You want the diode to be more then flush. It needs to be incearted deeper. I recommend using a simple metal tube you can find at the Home Depot. It needs to be thick to resist the pressure.

[highlight]It might be easier to use thermal grease or paste[/highlight] to line the inside of the diode housing

Click to expand...

You need to be careful you don't get some of it on the lens of the diode or too much on the metal jacket (can). This can give bad results, especially for open cans.

[highlight]remove the dummy load, and solder the pins on the diode like[/highlight] so:

Click to expand...

First, "remove" needs a capital letter. Second, you need to short the capacitor, or you will kill the diode.

the phr diode needs to be more than "flush" with the back of the housing, it actually has to sit down inside of the housing otherwise you won't be able to focus it to "infinity" (assuming you use the lens nut from the aixiz module on your lens)

Could the AMC7135 be used for this tutorial?

Mohrenberg said:

the phr diode needs to be more than "flush" with the back of the housing, it actually has to sit down inside of the housing otherwise you won't be able to focus it to "infinity" (assuming you use the lens nut from the aixiz module on your lens)

Click to expand...

Incorrect. You don't need to make it more than flush. you can either not use that Aixiz silver focusing "lens nut" and just get your hands on the lens, or you can use a Sure Electronics module's silver focusing piece, it doesn't extend as far down as the Aixiz's and lets you focus the laser out to infinity.

-Kendall

I have always only pressed 'flush' too...

It's just what you get used to. My answer for the Aixiz focus ring, is to just trim the back of the focus ring 'thinner' on the lathe. That way it will allow the lens to thread down a little farther to get focus.

By the way, this focusing issue is not a problem with my 405-G-1 glass lens modification in case anyone was wondering...
Jay

Thanks for the replies guys. will fix images tomorrow.

pseudonyms said:

There have been many of these threads, and most with the same content, but good thread anyway. Used good images and good descriptions.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I have seen many of these tutorials. They all seem so different, So I made one very simple. You don't need to buy a driver circuit. It is very easy to build one at home. I had success with the DDL circuit. So I am happy!

OFF TOPIC... Somewhat
The images where made by me. Thank you Adobe Photoshop CS3!
-Sorry there

Yes I know this is a major topic bump, but I really felt like I needed to rewrite most of the tutorial. I added new images, and better details.

Thanks for all who read this.