Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

CLOSED - 445 build flicker problem - CLOSED fixed thank you all!

designedfor1

designedfor1

0
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
206
Points
0
Ok, so I know this was mentioned in a couple of other posts some where and it turned out to be the battery. I have checked the battery (aw 18650) and a few others and they all do the same thing (all have a full charge). I have the boost driver set to 532ma.

So what happens is it turns on for a about 2-4 seconds, then starts to flicker / strobe. Could this be the multimode? Bad solder connections? Dying diode?

Specs.
Using a ultrafire a10b host
FP's heatsink
microboost set to 532ma (bridged at the 390-750ma pad)
aw p18650 battery (full charge)
a130 diode


Thanks for the help.
 
Last edited:





chipdouglas

chipdouglas

0
Joined
Dec 23, 2008
Messages
3,948
Points
63
Re: 445 build flicker problem

with laser off see if anything rattles when you shake it.. not too hard though. i had a similar prob.... and it was a loose - connection due to my poor assembly.

michael
 
designedfor1

designedfor1

0
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
206
Points
0
Re: 445 build flicker problem

the only thing that rattles is the AL washer that goes around the spring at the top.
 
charliebruce

charliebruce

0
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
1,506
Points
48
Re: 445 build flicker problem

What's the current draw from the battery? It might simply not be able to supply enough current.
 
designedfor1

designedfor1

0
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
206
Points
0
Re: 445 build flicker problem

These are the specs. from the aw battery im using:

Capacity : 2600mAH ( rated at 0.2C discharge 4.2V - 2.8V @ 25℃ )
Operating Temp. : Charge 0 to 45℃ / Discharge -20 to 60 ℃
Max. Charge Rate : 2.6A ( ambient temp. 25 ℃ )
Max. Discharge Rate : 5.2A ( ambient temp. 25 ℃ )
Dimensions :18.52 X 68.16mm ( +/- 0.3mm )

I'm not sure where to measure the current draw from the battery with the host complete.
 
charliebruce

charliebruce

0
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
1,506
Points
48
Re: 445 build flicker problem

Are they from a reputable company? Chinese specs aren't necessarily worth the paper they're written on. It'd be useful if you could measure the actual current draw from the batteries nonetheless.
 
designedfor1

designedfor1

0
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
206
Points
0
Re: 445 build flicker problem

charliebruce said:
Are they from a reputable company? Chinese specs aren't necessarily worth the paper they're written on. It'd be useful if you could measure the actual current draw from the batteries nonetheless.
Click to expand...

It's the AW brand batteries. They are highly referred by many vets.
 
charliebruce

charliebruce

0
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
1,506
Points
48
Re: 445 build flicker problem

I'd personally measure the current draw, and try it with a second power supply (preferrably a stable bench supply, if you have one available). I'm guessing there's nothing visibly shorted on the driver, and nothing is getting too warm?
 
chipdouglas

chipdouglas

0
Joined
Dec 23, 2008
Messages
3,948
Points
63
Re: 445 build flicker problem

did you solder your jumpers on the driver yourself? well either way check with a magnifying glass that they are all clean and good connections too.

michael
 
designedfor1

designedfor1

0
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
206
Points
0
Re: 445 build flicker problem

charliebruce said:
I'd personally measure the current draw, and try it with a second power supply (preferrably a stable bench supply, if you have one available). I'm guessing there's nothing visibly shorted on the driver, and nothing is getting too warm?
Click to expand...

There is nothing visibly shorted on the driver (a few close areas). As far as the heat I didn't feel anything getting warm when setting the current. I haven't powered the laser on long enough for it to try to get warm (maybe 10 seconds at most).

I don't have a bench power supply unfortunately. Is it possible to measure the current draw with the battery?

chipdouglas said:
did you solder your jumpers on the driver yourself? well either way check with a magnifying glass that they are all clean and good connections too.

michael
Click to expand...

Yes, I did. I didn't solder the entire pad, just about have of the pad.
 
charliebruce

charliebruce

0
Joined
Nov 22, 2008
Messages
1,506
Points
48
Re: 445 build flicker problem

designedfor1 said:
Is it possible to measure the current draw with the battery?
Click to expand...

To measure the current DRAW:

With an amnmeter (multimeter) in the high range, just bypass the switch using the multimeter probes and that should give a reading. That means that, if it's a tail-cap switch, you would unscrew that, and touch one probe on the casing/threads, and the other on the battery terminal where the tailcap's spring would be touching.
 
Last edited:
daguin

daguin

0
Joined
Mar 29, 2008
Messages
15,989
Points
113
Re: 445 build flicker problem

charliebruce said:
With an amnmeter (multimeter) in the high range, just bypass the switch using the multimeter probes and that should give a reading.

If it's a tail-cap switch, unscrew that, and touch one probe on the casing/threads, and the other on the battery terminal where the tailcap's spring would be touching.
Click to expand...


Just a reminder -- This will give you the current draw at the battery. It will NOT give you the current to the diode.

Peace,
dave
 
Gryphon

Gryphon

0
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
2,237
Points
83
Re: 445 build flicker problem

Is this laser in a host that uses the case as one of the power leads? (case positive,
case negative). I have had a laser that flickered because it had a slight amount of
oxidation where the driver connected to the host. Once i cleaned it up and it made
a solid connection to the host the flickering went away.
 
designedfor1

designedfor1

0
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Messages
206
Points
0
Re: 445 build flicker problem

I found the problem! I think it was a mix of the half soldered pad and bad solder connections at the diode. I want to thank everyone who contributed to help. All of the suggestions made me rethink my solder joints.

I was soldering from one direction and it only filled half of the diode solder pad.

thank you again and +1 for everyone!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.




Top