Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Capacitors, info and a question please :)

Seany

0
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
37
Points
0
Ok so i've looked around a bit and my main question is about the DDL driver, or rather just the cap. I've seen so many different ones so i'm wondering, how much does it matter about the voltage and the uf rating.

From what i gather the voltage is what the cap will charge to (What happens if overloaded?) but i don't quite understand how the uf rating works.

Also when building a curcuit and testing i've read to short out the cap before you attach a diode but I don't know how to do this, Is it just putting a piece of wire across the pins?

Thanks in advance. First laser build coming soon :D :p

-Sean
 





Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,622
Points
113
The uF rating is the capacitance of the capaitor... it is what will help
eliminate spikes that could damage your Laser Diode..
Use the value stated on the DDL schematic..

The voltage rating of the capacitor should be at least two times higher
that the voltage that the capacitor will see in the circuit at any time...

Applying mor voltage than the rating of the capacitor will damage the
capacitor...:cool:

Jerry
 

Seany

0
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
37
Points
0
Thanks Jerry, but about shorting it, is it that simple as to join the pins together?

Also i'm interested in seeing this esplosive property you speak of photon. Any youtube vids? (I've seen many start fizzing and look like they'll pop but that's heat related.)

-Sean
 
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
2,738
Points
63
Just place a 100 ohm resistor over the pins, it will bleed the cap out slow.

You can just short the pins, but be ready sometimes they throw a fat spark that way.

to blow one up, just take a sacrificial capacitor and push too much voltage to it.

That "X" mark on the top is for pressure relief when the electrolyte inside starts boiling.

I have been around electronics since the 1970's so I think I have seen every failure that can happen.
 

Seany

0
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
37
Points
0
Well i'll be using the same as described in the DDL curcuit page so 16V, i don't imagine they could put out much of a spark lol. Is there a way to make some sort of "bleed switch" into the DDL curcuit so you can flip that and it'll drain it...Think i'll have a little mess around with some resistors and a little bit of extra curcuit. You gave me an idea photon :) thanks

-Sean
 
Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Messages
6,309
Points
83
Actually, a 1,500 Ohm bleeder resistor will be OK. It will discharge the cap in about one second. a 1/4 watt resistor will be fine up to 5 volts. A smaller bleeder resistor will be good at 3 volts. Do the math.
I've been preaching Bleeder resistors for years.

HMike
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,622
Points
113
Good call Mike...
as to the Meatball video... what a waste of time...:undecided:
It's like looking at some Dork pumping 220 Volts into his Iphone...
what's the point...:thinking:

Jerry
 
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
2,894
Points
0
Sorry Lasersbee... I saw it the other day, and this thread reminded me of it. I didn't think leds could be so violent... even at HV.
 
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
17,622
Points
113
Any (or most) low voltage device exibit a highly violent aftetmath subjected
to extreme high voltages...

Jerry
 
Joined
Aug 1, 2008
Messages
335
Points
0
Ever see one blow the can off??

i have. it actually was rated for around 15V but i put 25V through it... it shot off the metal can across the room. it sounded like a gunshot too.. when i looked at the can it blew off there was a hole in the top

pretty sweet but pretty scary when you're not expecting it. same with touching + and - on 120V after putting solder on them. its the bright flash you'll ever see. and the solder will pretty much vaporize n send melted solder flying everywhere
 




Top