Can splash be removed, or "blocked"

Agreed it could be just as simple as cutting a plastic cover for your lens then setting it on top... Start with a small hole, and increase the diameter as you go.

what kenom said

kenom.... send me your genome please... i obviously cant think of genius ideas like that lol. as i said once before i do believe... i CANT BELIEVE i didnt think of that before. it may look gaudy in the end it i do it cheaply with a slide over type fix. i'd rather have it flush... maybe just a longer host... and mount the module further back.... or a long heatsink would work rather conveniently i would think

and i dont mind the wings, but the splash is just too messy for me. i wish it could be JUST a dot as it almost is when you shine it on the right black surface, but im sure there will always be SOME splash as it is one heck of a bright light.

hahaha you don't want my genome! (just gonna leave this one alone though it screams to be commented upon!)

I would probably start with one of those really really cheap and thin black plastic binders, cut out a circle and poke it with a hot needle. Then using a bit of scotch tape here and there to affix it literally to the top of the lens (moving it this way and that to align it correctly) If the hole I've made is too small, I'll slowly increase the size of the hole small amounts at a time until I've acheived the desired affect. I can then find a washer or something similair with a better hole to replace said plastic bit.

I still think you'll be able to get what you're looking for by getting a $5 glass lens from Aixiz. I use them frequently, and aside from the wings there is NO splatter. Just a nice clean dot/wings. It's highly likely that your splatter is coming from the fact that you're using an acrylic lens..

Kenom said:

hahaha you don't want my genome! (just gonna leave this one alone though it screams to be commented upon!)

Click to expand...

i dont follow... or know if i want to lol

anyways, electro you very well may be right, i just never thought a regular old glass lens would eliminate ALL the splash minus the wings wich cannot be helped...easily... but i planned on buying a few to replace the 6 acrylics im using... but all of them have the easy adjust rings glued on... do they sell aixiz glass lenses WITH the easy focus ring? and if not how would i remove the lightly but strongly glued on adjusters without destroying or maming the acrylic lenses. i would use these for other things such as my spyrograph laser projector im working on ^_^ "i think its called a spyrograph... i do believe rog made a huge chrome one resembling an oversized police flashlight." mine will not be handheld though.

yes, the lens quality (acrylic isnt necessarily worse than glass!) decides on how much splash you have. best would be an ar-coated lens with no dust and no scratches. the ar-coating isnt really important for reducing splash.. you think your lens (and diode window) is perfectly clean? have a jewellers magnifier? ..or shine your laser through another lens to project a large dot on a wall..

about the wings: i dont like them neither. an aperture is the right thing against it. i think some of us talk about differnt ideas: when you place your aperture between the diode and the lens, you will have a tough time to position and align it. i would attach it directly to the back of your lens, just like the original aperture of aixiz` lenses. if the aperture is too small, you will melt/destroy it, and perhaps ruin your diode too, without being able to tell before it is too late.
i dont think its of much use to place the aperture behind the lens. when the wings are only one inch after several meters, you can imagine how precise your aperture has to be just millimeters after the lens! we are not talking about a hot needle here, at least..
i would glue aluminum foil to doublesided tape, paint the foil side matte black, punch a circle from it, and punch a hole in the middle with a needle or nail. you can adjust the diameter with how far you punch the needle in. well, two mm should be minimum, so a needle will be too small..

good luck, i will eventually try all that too!

manuel

ElektroFreak said:

...aside from the wings there is NO splatter...

Click to expand...

Agreed, even with JayRob's powerful G-405-1 lens, red still looks good (enough)

250mW DJR w/405-G-1 Glass (L), 280mW LikitBright w/AixiZ Glass (R)

A tip for those that don't find right nuts, don't have the needed tools for cut away diaphragms in the right size, and want to try a diaphragm with no expense

Go in some computer shop/repair centers, and ask for some of those pressed-fiber insulating orange washers that always they have around (They come with cases screws set, but practically, no pc service use them for assemble pc's, so they usually gift you them, if you ask)

As you see in the images, they are thin and precise, and overall, usually they have the exact diameter of the non-threaded inside part of the aixiz focus ring , so all that you need to do is paint them with a black felter pen (just for the aesthetic part, you don't need to do it also inside, cause it's already an opaque surface that don't cause reflections ), and glue it inside the focus ring with a drip of superglue.

Once the glue it's hard, tadah, instant zero cost diaphragm

looks promising, thanks for the hint and pics!

manuel

HIMNL9 said:

A tip for those that don't find right nuts, don't have the needed tools for cut away diaphragms in the right size, and want to try a diaphragm with no expense

Go in some computer shop/repair centers, and ask for some of those pressed-fiber insulating orange washers that always they have around (They come with cases screws set, but practically, no pc service use them for assemble pc's, so they usually gift you them, if you ask)

As you see in the images, they are thin and precise, and overall, usually they have the exact diameter of the non-threaded inside part of the aixiz focus ring , so all that you need to do is paint them with a black felter pen (just for the aesthetic part, you don't need to do it also inside, cause it's already an opaque surface that don't cause reflections ), and glue it inside the focus ring with a drip of superglue.

Once the glue it's hard, tadah, instant zero cost diaphragm

Click to expand...

FLAWLESS idea IMO dude. thank you so much! i actually walked right around the corner today to KT&C computers and they gave me a 100 OF THEM!!!!!!!

none of them have been used either! i have already completely fixed the nastydisgusting splash of my 135mW PHR, and it has a BEAUTIFLY clean dot, and tiny wings about half the size that they used to be. it helped SO much, and only cost ME another acrylic lens, as all my focus rings were glued on already. so i grabbed a lens and a ring. droped it in, center it. tacked it with krazy glue, and VIOLA!

NO MORE SPLASH!!!!

your the man, +rep for that for sheezy!

Dark

hmm, sorry guys, but as it is tested/discussed here, the wings cant be removed at all. that is, if you dont want to massively lose power (-50% anyone?) nor want a one-meter-long pointer.
splash can be removed, at least.

manuel

Here is an excellent article on scatter from my Edmund Optics Master Source book. I have used the edges blackened technique for at least a year or so now and it always works great. I simply apply three to four layers of black perminent marker and the scatter is greatly reduced. You may also try using black nail polish, it's thicker so less applications.

That's not really readable, unfortunately. Does it say to just blacken the edge of the lens? (Better yet: link?)

Edit: here

edge-blackening is a technique used a lot in photographic objectives, also ..... especially in good quality ones ..... but, also, sanding he edges of the lenses (as in glass ones for combined doublets / triplets), or doing both the things, especially sanding AND then painting the edges with opaque black .....

I had a doubt that the "wings" from the dot depends from that ..... so wanted to do a test ..... took an acrylic aixiz lens, darkened both the edges and sides with an identipen (it's a black permanent marker, with an ink so black, that can dirt your fingers also if you just look at it in the wrong way, LOL), and put it back in the module, then used both on a 100mW red module i have here ..... with the normal lens, it display the wings (on a black cardboard, otherwise there's no way for see them), and with the darkened lens, the wings are practically invisibles, but the halo around the dot increase a bit, so, apparently, at least with my module, they depend mainly from the lens, than the diode chip itself (but MUST be caused from the axis differences, anyway).

As a counter test, i tried the same module with a special lens that i have , 2,5mm FL, AR coated for red it have almost no edges, but have a "ring" around the active part of the lens, that remain in the field of the beam from the fast axis), and a glass Aixiz triplet ..... the single lens do a smaller dot, but the wings are long the double than with the aixiz acrylic one and with more halo around the dot, the glass triplet do a dot small like the short FL lens, with wings small as the aixiz acrylic, and practically no halo around the dot ..... AAARGH

guess that for eliminate it completely, without cause halo, need to study some different triplet, or use a fast axis corrector on the diode

Actually i'm opening the glass aixiz triplet for try to darken the edges of the 3 lenses and see what happen .....

Edit: done, no differences, at least for that what i can see bare eyes ..... i was not expecting too much, anyway, cause their glasses lenses are already sanded on external side.

dr-ebert said:

That's not really readable, unfortunately. Does it say to just blacken the edge of the lens? (Better yet: link?)

Edit: here

Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for finding that link. Sorry I couldn't upload anything larger than 800x600.