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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Blu-ray labby (lots of nice pics)

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Each picture is worth a thousand words so...


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Yeah! :cool:
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Here's how I made the heatsink by soldering some washers together. A dremel is a must! I used five but it wont give a full duty cycle, so my advise is to use more of them or bigger. (If you want to attempt of course, this is damn hard to achieve)
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Rough surface is the key to success.
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Some normal solderwire. I flatten it with a hammer.
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I heated it all up with a hot air gun at full power.
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Here's how I get the diodes out of the modules unharmed with an old piece of radio antenna. I got the "vise thingy" from an old desk lamp.
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Rough surface again.
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This jig puts pressure on everything so it doesn't move around and keeps the molen solder from getting into the threads.
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Pretty.
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Nice and clean.
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Done.



I also removed the diode window for more power with nothing else but a humble knife. It took me about 15 minutes (my very first try too).
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Cuting masking tape
http://youtube.com/watch?v=SSaNViSaYmk

Lights matches
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lN3J9t7_3XU


That's all folks, hope I brought some inspiration. :D
Ask questions or whatever.
 





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nice work. looks like a lot of time spent on the heat sink & getting the module in it :)

any idea how much current you're driving it at?
 

JLSE

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Nice build :) Did you use the knife like a pipe cutting blade and rotate the diode?
 
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The current is at 150mA.


I carefully "sawed" into the can by rubbing the blade about 5mm back and fourth, and slowly worked my way around.

To hold eveything I put the diode upside down in the heatsink/module and I held it kinda like a fishing rod (I'm talking about the grip) with my left hand, and the knife in the right + quite a bit of pressure.
 

JLSE

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FireMyLaser said:
The current is at 150mA.


I carefully "sawed" into the can by rubbing the blade about 5mm back and fourth, and slowly worked my way around.

To hold eveything I put the diode upside down in the heatsink/module and I held it kinda like a fishing rod (I'm talking about the grip) with my left hand, and the knife in the right + quite a bit of pressure.


That must have taken a while. I was first thinking you put the diode in a dremel or drill chuck and slowly rode the blade in. I have done it with a drill and it works quite well, but risky.
 
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wannaburn said:
[quote author=FireMyLaser link=1216229362/0#3 date=1216232662]The current is at 150mA.


I carefully "sawed" into the can by rubbing the blade about 5mm back and fourth, and slowly worked my way around.

To hold eveything I put the diode upside down in the heatsink/module and I held it kinda like a fishing rod (I'm talking about the grip) with my left hand, and the knife in the right + quite a bit of pressure.


That must have taken a while. I was first thinking you put the diode in a dremel or drill chuck and slowly rode the blade in. I have done it with a drill and it works quite well, but risky.[/quote]

Not a bad idea, I might try that next time. I belive it isn't that risky when the right technique is found. The key is to put enough pressure to cut, but at the same time put enough resistance back so it won't go in too deep.


brtaman said:
Very nice mod [smiley=thumbsup.gif]!

Very clean!


brtaman

Lol thanks! :)
 
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Nice job on that heatsink!

I may have to try that, I've been trying to drill through some coins for a while now, and so far I've put a nice dent in one coin after dulling two drill bits. :-/

By the way, it's really easy to get the can off with a dremel, I used a a cutting disc and rotated the can between my fingers.
Be careful if your window is broken though, a shard of glass got launched at the die on mine, causing catastrophic damage.
 

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I don't like using a dremel for this because of the vibrations and all of the metal fragments being thrown around. That can't be good. :-/

As for trying to make a heatsink, good luck, it's pretty hard. But if you're a problem solver you'll make it. Solering skills is plus too, but don't use a soldering iron. A hot air gun is the way to go.
 

Zom-B

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I wish I had a hot air gun for this kind of job. Nice work on the de-windowing too. pleudolobster, I also fear that it is metal dust from the dremel that killed your chip, and not the broken glass. You have to approach these kind of jobs very slowly and without creating dust or mechanical stress.
 

IgorT

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FireMyLaser said:
Each picture is worth a thousand words so...

Nice work man! :)


I like how you soldered the washers together and to the module.. You must have some monster hot air gun! :eek:


But since you're using an external power suply, connected to mains (i'm guessing), be careful in winter! I lost many a diode simply because i powered the driver from a PSU.. :(
 

IgorT

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Zom-B said:
I wish I had a hot air gun for this kind of job. Nice work on the de-windowing too. pleudolobster, I also fear that it is metal dust from the dremel that killed your chip, and not the broken glass. You have to approach these kind of jobs very slowly and without creating dust or mechanical stress.

I've read of people succesfully using a diamond plated dremel, but i would not want ANY particles on the die. It has to be a clean cut.

So the knife approach is superior. I need to practice on some dead diodes with a scalpel.. :D
 
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IgorT said:
[quote author=FireMyLaser link=1216229362/0#0 date=1216229361]Each picture is worth a thousand words so...

Nice work man! :)


I like how you soldered the washers together and to the module.. You must have some monster hot air gun! :eek:


But since you're using an external power suply, connected to mains (i'm guessing), be careful in winter! I lost many a diode simply because i powered the driver from a PSU.. :([/quote]
Thanks for the comment!

Yeah, I know :-/. I'm not sure but I think the diode is safe. There is not much that is exposed and the heatsink is not connected to any of the pins. Still not sure.

Here's the powersupply, a 3 to 12V, 1500-800mA battery adapter. Stabilised.
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The hot air gun can reach 600 Celsius or 1112 Fahrenheit. I guess a blow torch will work too.
 

IgorT

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FireMyLaser said:
Yeah, I know  :-/. I'm not sure but I think the diode is safe. There is not much that is exposed and the heatsink is not connected to any of the pins. Still not sure.

But the heatsink.. Oh! Right! :D Stupid me... I wanted to say the heatsink is connected to the base, but this is a PHR...

Hmm, never thought of it this way.. But the thing is, with the juicy sparks i was drawing that day (loud painful sparks!), i think it could easily arc over the base into the diode, just to get to the GND pin and discharge into ground.


I'm preparing something similar for Scopeguy, but i opted against an external PSU, just for this reason....
 
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I never ever feel any sparks. But, of course, that doesn't mean it's nothing there. :-/


Well, my powersupply stays, I don't like batteries.
They do this thing you see, they drain and become useless. ;D
 

IgorT

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FireMyLaser said:
They do this thing you see, they drain and become useless.  ;D

I heard about that, but i didn't want to believe it... ;)


Otherwise, a metal case, that would be grounded, would protect it.

Another thing to do would be to insulate the part of the heatsink sticking out...
I'm thinking of letting 1.5mm of the module stick out from the heatsink, to mount it through the box, with the heatsink only on the inside..



BTW, here it is so dry in winter, that i just have to move from one table to another and i'm all charged up.
 




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