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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Argon Connection Help

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Be CAREFUL with the conclusions you draw from continuity. For example: the filament is rated for a mere 2.5-3V so it may very well look like a short. I suggest you follow each pin to find out where it goes.
 





Things

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Jay, killing an argon tube can be quite complicated. Really all you can do is burn out the filament, overheat the tube, or kill the igniter circuit. I believe that you can fire up the filament, and look down into the tube for a orangish glow, to make sure it is working.
 

jayrob

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I'm trying to get the data sheet from the maker of the JDS power supply that I bought:

JDS%202.jpg

JDS%201.jpg


Let's say I get the pin connection figured out. And even if the PSU has a higher voltage for the fan, and I have to use a different supply for the fan, do you think that I will need the remote for the PSU?

Is it needed to run and control the laser?
 

Morgan

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Don't know if this'll be any help either jay, (You have probably come across this in your search so far anyway but hey... ), but it seems to be a similar answer to a similar question -

Pinout JDS Uniphase Laser Power Supply

There's a link to a manual too but I couldn't match the picture in it to the PSU you have.

M
:)
 

jayrob

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Thanks for your help and research! :)

Looks like this is going to be a tricky project...

I wonder why these Showa lasers are out and about, but none of the power supplies that went with them??
 
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Morgan

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I reckon Dave's just palming you off with hard to recycle gear! :na::eg::crackup:

I'm sure a resourceful man like yourself will unearth a manual soon.

M
:)
 

jayrob

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I've been talking to Mark Csele who has built many lasers of all kinds. (contacted him from a list in Sam's)
The Professor's Homebuilt Lasers Site

And I'm a little discouraged because he says that he thinks my JDS power supply would still need a remote to control the laser even if I did get the wires configured properly...

JDS%202.jpg
 

LSRFAQ

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Two oranges, one side of cathode
Two blacks, other side of cathode
Two reds, anode voltage, current limited by PSU

Ignitor is self controlling in that one, which may confuse the JDSU psu.

Showa bought NECs argon line, that is the NEC glass tube design.

This is a start:

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/nec3hsch.pdf

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/2214hsch.pdf

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/cu2214tm.jpg

http://www.laserfx.com/Backstage.LaserFX.com/Systems/Pinouts/cyonics2201.pdf

I'm trying to find my NEC manual, it covers that head.

Steve
 
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jayrob

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Wow thanks man! :cool: Sounds like you may be familiar with this unit...

I'm getting hopeful again now!

If I am reading the information correctly, it looks like maybe I can use the PSU without the remote if I just jumper a couple of pins??

Do you think my JDS 2111 power supply can work for this laser?

Do think I will need the remote?
 
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LSRFAQ

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If I am reading the information correctly, it looks like maybe I can use the PSU without the remote if I just jumper a couple of pins??

You'll need a potentiometer, the connector, and the pins. Dont try connecting without the proper pins, the supplies WILL glitch without solid connections, and glitches are bad. If you have to, the round pins on the control connector can be removed by sliding a piece of brass tubing over the pin to release the catch inside, but once you do that, you need to replace the pin. Square pins, ie the cathode connections, do NOT release once installed.

Also NEC/SHOWA glass tubes do NOT survive overdrive for ANY length of time, keep Itube below 8 amps.

A correctly heated cathode is orange hot, not white hot, but not dull red either. Too cold and they sag, too hot and you damage the electron emission layer and bury gas, and on NECs, also that cruds up the internal optics.

Digikey sells the connectors. Those are Amphenol CPC series 5 or Series 6

The jdsu supplies are/were matched to the tube with a internal card, known as a "personality board" data on which has never been released or reverse engineered, so if your tube characteristics are close enough, and the supply works, you have a chance, but generally JDSU supplies are too smart for their own good.

JDSU also controls the ignitor in the head with a optocoupler, where NEC/SHOWA does not. You may need to hold off ignition for the 30 second warmup delay.

I'd just find a old linear Spectra 261 or 262 power supply, much easier to convert. Ie you just change the head connector and add the SP required programming resistor. NEC and SP competed head to head for bio and printing applications of these lasers,and tended to make the stuff so customers did not need to exchange PSUs when they changed tubes. This drove sales down to price point, making it easy to "steal" a customer.


And yes, I know these beasts, guess who wrote most of the ion chapter at the FAQ...

NECs are not one of my favorites, they tend to die a quick death if operated even remotely outside of parameters. Its been 15 years since I've had my hands on one.

JDSU is the ONLY one I've never been able to reverse engineer or document or social engineer. But that might have something to do with not having a pile of working ones to compare.

PS, there is a bit of ART required when measuring ion laser power supplies with a voltmeter and the power on. My general advise is to NOT do it. Usually results in a smoked voltmeter, operator, or supply , or all three, if you do NOT know where to put the probes. Never place a meter probe to CASE or EARTH ground when working on a ion laser power supply. Never connect the control connector ground to any part of the tube circuit through a meter. These supplies are "hot chassis" sets that work directly off rectified AC line. Some parts inside are opto isolated or transformer isolated to protect the circuit from itself, and cross connecting any isolated part to B+ or Ground is VERY bad. And on these self controlling ignitors.. Well, you need to find a way to disable them if you want to keep your voltmeter alive when checking for anode voltage.

Be careful, you have unlimited (120 vac * 1.414) 169 Vdc minimum across a unlit tube, and often more then that... Omnis for example, have 600-800V boost.

Steve
 
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jayrob

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Hmmm... Thanks for all of the information...

I'm for going the easier route of finding the SP 261 if I can. (depending on if I can find one, and how much it costs)

If I get one, can I bother you for some help on getting the connections correct?

Will I need a controller for the 261?

But since I already bought the JDS, I may try that first...

I could not get a picture for the part at Digi-Key, but I found this at Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1040.pdf (I don't have my meter in hand yet)

Do you think that Mouser page has the plug you are talking about?
 
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daguin

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To work with a stock JDSU or Spectrta-Physics you will need to at least jump some remote pins to allow it to lase. If you want to control the current, you will have to build or buy a remote.

I don't know about if you will need a remote if you adapt it to work withthe Showa.

It would appear that these Showa units are being used in DNA sequencers in Japan. The heads are probably being replaced, but the PSUs are being re-used in the units. (pure speculation)

Peace,
dave
 

jayrob

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Thanks for the link!

Hmmm... he says he doesn't know if it's fried or not. But there are a couple of good links to Sam's there for diagrams... :)
 
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Check with your guys at Meretith. They have had experience w/ surplus Argons, as well as their knowledge of HeNe.
 

jayrob

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Thanks Will, I'll e-mail them the link to this thread and see if they have an answer for me...
 




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