7W+ Survival Laser S4X Host w/NUBM44 diode and 4.5A SXD Tutorial

Ok thanks! Yeah instead of the wires being soldered sideways it would be better having them like this.

Update! Using the tailored heatsink and 12 mm module with drilled pill no shelf there isn't enough room. Looks like mini jst is going to be my only option.

Having a spring height problem on my s4x. The blank battery plate/brass ring and drilled pill assembly is perfect but again I notice the sound of moving or sliding batteries when I turn it on side or up. Using only button top not flat top 18650's. I found a $1.00 led flashlight from Walmart that probably has a perfect spring height. Need a breakdown or teardown sheet for the tailcap. I can make this work 100%

UPDATE!
Foujnd it! Use needle nose pliers in the 2 holes inside the tailcap turning them. It took some pressure but I loosened it enough to use multi tester leads in the holes to turn it loose. I stretched the 2nd coil from bottom using caution then the rest of the spring. When I tried to test it....I got a S4X always on same as I read in another thread. Twist the spring inward away from the aluminum plate and it should fix that. In light of what I saw, knowing the burning power of the nubm44 I will be buying a metal carrying case and probably replace the tailcap switch with a keylock. Anyone got some leads for me on a keylock?

Give it a try and come back with pics.

Hey brad I would combine your posts above before the police see. And about the sx4 host. While the idea is a good one the design of the host your experimenting on isn't the best platform. Ideally the heatsink should have the outside covered in thermal grease where it comes in contact with the host.
Is your driver board directly soldered to the diode pins or are you using the driver shelf pull from survival lasers?

I wanted to add some notes for any rookies who tries this build. I made some rookie mistakes and some were not. When you get these parts, first off you may question the colored andonized cap. If you get the Module from DTR with the G2 lens, you can unscrew the focusing lens housing from the module and simply unscrew the chrome looking focus ring and screw the andonized cap on instead but make sure that you get the external lens spring. It prevents you from screwing the G2 lens down too far and damaging the diode. If you get a half length module make sure you are grounded and confirm that it does have a driver (we live in a micro technology age) so it's easy to make this mistake. If you have a contact problem, rather than risking the (driver w/blank battery plate) or blank battery board check your spring height and that your 18650 batteries are button top before considering stretching the spring.

Please read this: Laser hazard distance chart - Laser Safety Facts

Lastly learn what laser beam collimation and divergence is. Tip research the different lens types such as 3 element vs G2.

http://www.maxmcarter.com/lasrstuf/laserrangecalc.html

*If you are simply trying to train for the Jedi Kight accedemy....before you aim any high powered laser up over 5mw question what you will do when you get one aimed back at you! Some of the satellites up there have sensative sensors etc on them. You cost some country a 5 billion dollar sattelite and you may wind up dead! The FDA is not necessarily the enemy. Please consider this before you act like a gun finatic being regulated. In my case don't ask because I am not discussing it.

Shortest distance to space 62 miles up. No way the Receiving lens area is correct but you get the general idea:
Transmitting laser/LED output power (mW) = 200000
Receiving lens area (cm2) = 0.9
Loss adjustment factor = 0.8
Receiver threshold power (nW) = 100
Beam divergence (radians) = 0.0033

Estimated range:

425724 feet
129754.3 m
129.75 km
80.63 miles

and you thought 10w was powerful¿?

Is the S4x host compatible with the DTR's all-copper 20mm/25mm/35mm module? The tapered copper heatsink by Survival Laser appears to be about 20mm so I was wondering.

Having a very hot 7W diode inside a small 12mm module is something that I want to improve upon. Sure, we can use thermal compound and install the 12mm module into a larger copper heatsink but that thermal compound is only slightly better than an air gap when it comes to having a good thermal pathway.

cncyana said:

Is the S4x host compatible with the DTR's all-copper 20mm/25mm/35mm module? The tapered copper heatsink by Survival Laser appears to be about 20mm so I was wondering.

Having a very hot 7W diode inside a small 12mm module is something that I want to improve upon. Sure, we can use thermal compound and install the 12mm module into a larger copper heatsink but that thermal compound is only slightly better than an air gap when it comes to having a good thermal pathway.

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It is not compatible in the current configuration. I have plans to design a 20mm adapter for this host but have not found the time to do it yet.

Hi if you a want a larger heat sink for the S4X have one machined and extra length can be added beyond the front bezel. That will give you adequate sinking for the NUBM44 . I have done this with a few of Gary’a Hosts . his hosts are beefy enough take it
Rich

He seems to really believe in the thermal paste not transfering heat to well. It's all in his right but I can't see a well tight fitting sink between a 12mm module to be as bad as he thinks?? 20mm of copper isn't a heck of alot I think either for a NUM44.

Hi GSS,
Even with my CU cores pressed in AL is larger that 20mm and for the 44 thats a plus. That thin coat of thermal compound will do the trick of heat transfer no problem. We been doing it that way for years.

Rich

Plain silicone heat sink compound doesn't transfer heat much better than air. If the surfaces match well, or better yet, you thread them to screw together adding silicone compound doesn't help enough to make a measurable difference. When I use heat sink compound, I use diamond powder and silver heat sink compound in equal amounts by weight. My Cyprus II all copper host from sinner uses threads to transfer heat. I don't use any heat sink compound on it as it seems totally unnecessary.

The S4X configuation as described in this thread works pretty well for absorbing and transferring the heat of the 44. Of course it can be improved upon as suggested by several of the members here.

Thank you for this tutorial. I will be doing this exact same build in a week or 2 when my parts arrive.

IWLSR5 said:

Thank you for this tutorial. I will be doing this exact same build in a week or 2 when my parts arrive.

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Appreciate the enthusiasm but please refrain from necroposting unless you want to add additional information. It annoys people. Hope to see that thread in a week or so

Unown (WILD) said:

Appreciate the enthusiasm but please refrain from necroposting unless you want to add additional information. It annoys people. Hope to see that thread in a week or so

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Sorry about that. I didn't notice the age of the post. The only difference in my build is that I will be running a NUBM4F. We will see just how thermal conductive this host really is.