75mw laser not working.. looking for advice.

I have one of Destructive Gear's old 75mw Sirius lasers from ~2007.. I've used it very lightly over the years, but today I pulled it out of my closet and tried to use it when I found it wasn't turning on.

Naturally I assumed the battery was dead since I hadn't used it in a while, I checked it and it turns out the battery was fine.. So now I have a non-functioning ~$175 laser from a company that isn't around anymore. Since thats the case, contacting them for repairs isn't an option unfortunately and I don't have the knowledge to do it myself. I don't even know how to get to the module. It appears the only way the module could be removed is to pull it out of the housing through the battery compartment with a pair of needle nose pliers and that seems like it ruin everything for sure.

It worked perfectly fine the last time I used it.. is my laser just garbage now?

some pics would help us aid you better
did you try recharging the battery?
did you take apart the laser yet? (so you have access to the electronics inside)
is the tailcap clickie (assuming its a tail clickie) contact "rusty"?

Yes, pics would help a lot!

You tried simple things like new batteries already, right? You tested the replacment batteries to see if they work?

blue bumblebee said:

some pics would help us aid you better
did you try recharging the battery?
did you take apart the laser yet? (so you have access to the electronics inside)
is the tailcap clickie (assuming its a tail clickie) contact "rusty"?

Click to expand...

Actually.. It started working again.

It does have a push button tailcap, so I'm guessing it just had a bad connection. There doesn't appear to be any rust or corrosion.

Thanks for the quick replies, hopefully it was just a bad connection with the battery and not something else that may cause it to not work down the road.

LOL
glad we could help
the thing i find with newer lasers nowadays (may or may not apply to you), is that the tail clickie button must be released all the way for the connection to be made. however, most rubber on the back button is a bit too "stiff" so the actual button never gets released all the way...
you would need to "squish" the button a bit to warp the current "stiff" shape