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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

2 Mode Switch Questions

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Hi all. I have an UF KF-T60 host like this:
1WVz3aT.jpg

found here : UltraFire KF-T60 HA-II XM-LT60 2-Mode 1000-Lumen White LED Flashlight DealExtreme

The 2 modes come in the switch. I really like this because the low mode comes in around 5mW, which allows me to use my 445 to play with my cat!
This is what the switch looks like:
xY5NiIn.jpg


Now, it looks just like this switch:
Clicky Switch for Flashlights (11.8mm 5-Pack) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

But, there's nothing in the listing about 2 modes.

My question is this: Is this a special kind of switch that I am going to have to find, or can I use this one, if I wire in a resistor like the setup in my UF?

I'd like to have this setup in many of my lasers so that I can use them safely indoors, and give that option to my customers.

Any advice folks?
 





csshih

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The switch you linked on DX looks to be the right kind.
ON-ON-OFF (the ON modes are actually switching between the two contacts on that switch, hence the 3 pins.)

I think they're called SPTT (single pole triple throw.) correct me if I'm wrong.

Edit: read below for proper information about the switches.
 
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Thank you, sir. I take it then, that when using those switches in a single mode build, one would only a)take out the resistor entirely w/ all pads soldered, or b)only solder two pins.

Does either sound correct? Option b seems most likely.
 
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5mW measured out? I thought the lasing threshold of most 445s is well above that? Could be wrong on this. Would be sweet to have that low of a 445 though.
 
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It metered at 15mW peak on that mode. I'd like to tune that down w/ a different resistor.

I cannot explain why this M-140 is lasing at this level, but there it is.
 
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A single throw, triple throw (STTT) isn't the right term. A STTT simply means that a single switch toggles three connections -- not have three different modes. You need to find out the actual switch function characteristics to really know if your switch has multiple modes. Check out switches like this or this.

Just to be sure for that switch on that flashlight, you ought to desolder that switch and see if it really does have two modes besides OFF in it. It could be the chip on the board that provides the different modes, not something inherent in the switch itself.

On that M-140, are you sure it's only 5mW? I thought those things didn't even begin lasing below an output of 150mW or something. Even if they did that'd require some great feedback mechanism. I wouldn't trust any 445nm laser with my cat unless it was LEDed or something.
 
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Thanks, BB. I was afraid to de-solder the switch today. I already have one faulty switch, limping along in another host, and didn't want to risk the one in this host. I will, however, take that under consideration when spending Sunday on multiple projects.

As far as the M-140's output it reads as this w/ a G-2 lens:
Mode 1: Peak 1.96W/1.75W stable
Mode 2: Peak 15mw/13mW stable

I really cannot explain why it's lasing. I only say it's lasing because I can clearly focus it and even see the beam in a smokey room. Otherwise, I would have thought it was a temporarily acting like it was LEDed.
 
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Do you have the ability to run that diode from a dc ps? My 10W 808 will produce light while being driven lower than the threshold current. There is clearly a switch in output when it beggins to lase
 
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I have not tried that with this build. I completed it before I bought my PSU. I suppose you're right that it isn't lasing at all, but just outputting some light. If it truly isn't lasing, then I feel even more safe about letting the cats play with it, since it wouldn't be coherent.

I know the phenomenon of which you speak, I've seen something similar IIRC on other diodes with my PSU. When I am testing this weekend, I will be observant of the results.
 
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If it "looks" like a typical laser beam but isnt lasing then it still neat to have 445 at that low of power.
 
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I suppose I may have to very carefully dismantle this switch and get some answers. I'd really like to mod my other lasers this way so I can use them indoors safely.

I mean if i can do driver surgery and solder to diodes, I can handle a switch.
 
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Anything after double, it's just a number (SP3T). All you'd need is a SPDT with an off position.
 
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Now, if I could just find those specs on DX...or somewhere else perhaps..

Edit: After reading the reviews on DX, I found that the very switch I linked to can be used as a 2 mode switch!

More to come...
 
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csshih

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Just to be sure for that switch on that flashlight, you ought to desolder that switch and see if it really does have two modes besides OFF in it. It could be the chip on the board that provides the different modes, not something inherent in the switch itself.

From the ones I've used it's On, On (routed through the resistor), and Off.

I guess the off isn't considered a throw?
 
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I don't know about the acronyms, but I am relieved in thinking that it's unlikely that I will have to deal with a chip.

According to a resistor band calculator, it's 6.8 Ohms. I'm not sure of the significance of that yet.
 

csshih

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According to a resistor band calculator, it's 6.8 Ohms. I'm not sure of the significance of that yet.

V= IR (voltage = current * resistance)
I'm just going to go ahead and say the 18650 is 3.7V and not deal with different voltages at different current :)

With the resistor in place, the max current draw by the xboost is .5A. I can't seem to find a datasheet for the xboost or I'd try to figure out what output the xboost is putting out but I'm pretty sure the driver is no longer in regulation.

Cyparagon halp before I make a fool of myself
 
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