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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Testing of the New 650nm/660nm 5W Diode.!

lazeerer

lazeerer

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ARG said:
If they are at 12V it should be fine to read up to 10W. Did you check with a DMM to make sure?

If the rails aren't at +/-12V you've found your problem :)
If they are at +/-12V then there's something else wrong with your LPM.

Can the display read up to 5V? Is the display getting enough power? You can measure the signal voltage with your DMM up to 4.2W to make sure it's not the display.

If it's not any of those it might be your head :(
Click to expand...

The Wall wart is 12V. THats it.

I dont know how to test for the rails. (I know nothing about LPMs)

Iam feeding 12v into the Meter.

The Display can read 20W. "Same display as Nospins."

Iam using a 5V regulator to regulate 5V to the display. So thats fine for sure.

I think with a 12V wallwart that means my rails are at only 6v.

or no.?
 





ARG

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lazeerer said:
The Wall wart is 12V. THats it.

I dont know how to test for the rails. (I know nothing about LPMs)

Iam feeding 12v into the Meter.

The Display can read 20W. "Same display as Nospins."

Iam using a 5V regulator to regulate 5V to the display. So thats fine for sure.

I think with a 12V wallwart that means my rails are at only 6v.

or no.?
Click to expand...

I read up on Jib's supply circuit for the Ophir heads and it looks like a voltage divider so from 12V you'll get +/-6V. That's what is limiting you to 4W :)
A 15V supply should work.
 
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lazeerer

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ARG said:
I read up on Jib's supply circuit for the Ophir heads and it looks like a voltage divider so from 12V you'll get +/-6V. That's what is limiting you to 4W :)
A 15V supply should work.
Click to expand...

Sweet. I would have never figured that out.!

Thank You.!
 
lazeerer

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Weeeeeee:whistle:

It works now ARG.:)

Thank you. It was due to me only having a 12v input.

Now i have about 18V.

So that would give me ~6W you would say.?

SO if i get a 24v supply i should be able eot read at around 10W.?
 
Speedy78

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Mother of god. As if I didn't have enough things to spend money on already!
 
ARG

ARG

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Yay! Glad it's working :wave:

It should be good for 6-7W :)

24V will be good for 10W, but at that power you should get a heatsink, as the Ophir will heat up from the laser power on the sensor and make the readings look higher than they are.
 
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Livinloud

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heat sink it and protect your sensor! there is a shortage of ophirs right now and they are hard to find and cost a bunch more now (just talked to a guy who paid $290 for a used one and he was lucky to even find one for sale)

Keep us updated to the new output :beer:
 
scumbagatheist

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I suppose it's time to drop Mrcrouse a line...I really want one of those heatsinks! Jesus, I'm gonna need a much bigger case.
 
Fiddy

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lazeerer said:
I would have loved to see them in that package.

However those packages are "Usually" Left for diodes that are TEC cooled and a 5W diode like such i dont think can be tec cooled in such a small package like those 670's fro ex.....
"By the way i got some info on those 670 that i think you will like.:)"
Click to expand...

Dam, i can make to-3 heatsinks pretty good now :( guess ill have to investigate how to mount a C mount, oh yeah what detail you find out?
 
bloompyle

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Waiting on updated numbers for dat output!

Are these "rated" 5W? Can more me expected? Not trying to be greedy, just excited.
 
ARG

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Fiddy said:
Dam, i can make to-3 heatsinks pretty good now :( guess ill have to investigate how to mount a C mount
Click to expand...

The way I make heatsinks for it is to take a flat slab of aluminium and drill a small hole and tap it. Then use a flathead (counter sink) screw to hold it in place, you don't need it to be very tight. It also helps to put a dab of thermal paste in between the diode and heatsink.

If you have one of those old b&w labbies crack it open and check out how they mount the diode. :)
 
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lazeerer

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ARG said:
Fiddy, the way I make heatsinks for it is to take a flat slab of aluminium and drill a small hole and tap it. Then use a flathead (counter sink) screw to hold it in place, you don't need it to be very tight. It also helps to put a dab of thermal paste in between the diode and heatsink.

If you have one of those old b&w labbies crack it open and check out how they mount the diode. :)
Click to expand...

Indium foil would be even better. I can get 200pcs made pre cut for C-mount diode for these.:)

???


Oh and the video:


5 WATTS:


I dont think there is much room above the 5W rating.

It seems they got a little more to go then how far i went but i would not push it for what an extra 500mW.LOL

Plus the temp and this heatsink was bouncing around so Use your best judgment on power MAX.

I would say these can do 4.3W+ easy after Lens at room temp.

We can probably get another WATT out of them chilling them down.
 
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Lazerbeak

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This is some really exciting pioneering work. :thanks: for all your efforts!

~ LB
 
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