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Pioneer-115D 300mw open can red diode

drlava

drlava

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why did you add heatsink fins to the TEC cold side? I don't imagine it is above ambient temperature? :-?
 





drlava

drlava

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if the tec cooled side is cooled below your room air temperature (and they usually are) then the heatsink fins act to warm the diode by drawing in heat from the room air, instead of adding cooling. In this case insulation is appropriate for the cold side.
 
andy_con

andy_con

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Gazoo said:
So now that you are running it with a TEC, what do you think of it using a TEC? You seemed to be a bit anti TEC, so I am curious if you notice anything different. For me the greatest advantage is the output stays stable.
Click to expand...

im not anti tec, there just a pain in the ass lol

after 20mins the diode was to hot, so had to shut down.

i do have a bigger tec which i need to dig out.

that tec is only 10mm big
 
Benm

Benm

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If you are using TEC it would be best to insulate the brass block, and add heatsinking to its warm side. All the TEC is doing now, is pumping heat away that's quickly replenished from ambient due to the fins on the cold side. Generally it's best to keep the cold side as small as you can (the brass block would be okay), and have the warm side heatsinked as good as you can (those alu fins look good for that).

The guide for removing the diode is excellent work btw!
 
andy_con

andy_con

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i know how a tec works OL

the cold side is on the brass case and the hot side on a heat snk

glad you like the guide
 
H

hydro

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Does any one know how the open can LD from the Sony 20X at NewEgg compair to the Pioneer 115D open can LD? Thanks
 
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