The Kryton Groove Build (Unique Driver)

A while ago I finished building my Mits (ML501P73) 500mw diode into a Krypton Groove host.
After a few revisions and dead drivers it was completed.:wave:
Special thanks to Jufran88 for his posts about the amc3117 drivers and polarity. (Here)

While there is nothing fantastically exceptional about the build, I would like to point out
that the driver is a possibility for anyone wanting a driver for low voltage diodes with multiple modes.

The Components:
Diode: Mit's 500mW (P73), from DTR - Link
Driver: 3*AMC7135 3-mode -1050mA, from FastTech Link
Host: Kryton Groove from GB
Lens: 3-element 445nm coated?
Battery: 1* 18650, Case negative
Driver heat sink: Link


About the driver:
A special note to make, is that the driver is continuous + ,(the + from the battery connects directly to the diode +, and the – from the battery goes to the driver, and from the drivers output to the diodes -).

This driver has 2-5 mode: "Low=5%, Medium =30% and High = 100%"
Options are:
Low, High, Strobe.
Low, Medium, High. (I chose this one)
Low, High.
Low, Medium, High, Strobe, SOS.

The driver DOES have mode memory.

High power at 1050mA it is constant current, which give 814mW for this build (3-element 445 coated lens).
Medium is pulsed at approximately 5.7 kHz, - 114mW
Low is <1mW, may not be laser emission. – I added a 50uF tantalum capacitor after the driver to lessen the peak of the pulses.

Pictures: From the Beginning...



Some tools for assembly.



The actual build begins...
Starting out with the case connection. I built it so that there is a connection from the case to the driver and again from the diode's case pin to the driver. So this thing can actually run with the head separated from the rest of the host.



Driver with copper heatsink.


Diode Pressed and driver being attached. Because I wanted to make sure that there wasn't any ripple in the output to the diode I added some tantalum capacitors after the driver.



The finished build.

-----------------------------------------

To measure the frequency of the pulses (at medium mode) I used a computer fan and a mirror at an angle on it, I also put a little tape on the side so as to make a "click" for every complete revolution.
I then took a picture of the laser (below), and put a recording of the "click's" on Audacity to find the fan speed. To find the pulse frequency I used: (pulses/revolution)*(fan revolutions/second) = frequency, the actual numbers are: 204*26Hz = 5304Hz. Thought to state it more correctly it would be 5.3kHz

From left to right: this build, 515nm @35mW and 450nm @94mW.


I am quite happy by the fact that this laser has an excellent run time, the longest I've run it was about 5 minutes straight, after which it was slightly warm. I'd estimate it could do 10 minutes or maybe more.


CATION!
Keep in mind that because medium and low modes are pulsed, they may not be a safe as the average power would make it seem. Because they might actually be 600mW on for only 20%, or 0.5% of the time. They could still be almost as dangerous as a 600mW laser.

Thanks for looking,
Mattronium

Wow. I might have to try one of those drivers out. Super cheap
Edit: just ordered 5@ 11$ shipped

Awesome build

Great build and write up!

Thanks for the responses guys.

10fenny, just remember that these drivers are linear, so I they only work for lower voltage diodes. The drop out voltage is quite low though, so the output can get close to the input voltage. And remember that they're continuous +.

Well thanks for the info. I got quite a few lower powered diodes ide like to try out.

Very nice build. Where did you purchase the copper heatsink on the driver?

I think that you did well. I like your pictures and your beam shots are quite nice. :gj:

Nute said:

Very nice build. Where did you purchase the copper heatsink on the driver?

Click to expand...

I get them from Dealextreme RHS-03 Copper Memory Heatsink Pads - Copper (8 PCS) for Cheap.

vortish said:

I think that you did well. I like your pictures and your beam shots are quite nice. :gj:

Click to expand...

Thanks. It took me some time to track down some of the pictures.

great job

Thank you, I will have to buy a few.

Great build thanks for sharing this with us. I hope you don't mind me asking a question.

I see you used a three element lens in this build. I just finished a Kryton with a 638nm and this same lens you used but am having a problem getting it to focus. The focus knob on the Kryton is so deep that very little threading is left exposed to screw into the top/heat sink so it wont focus into a tight beam/dot. I flipped the lens around to see if maybe I installed it backwards but that's not the problem. I am wondering if you encountered this and if so what did you do to correct it.
Should I put a small washer down into the focus knob hole so the lens doesn't bottom out so deep leaving more threads available to screw into the heat sink?

nwfreefly said:

Great build thanks for sharing this with us. I hope you don't mind me asking a question.

I see you used a three element lens in this build. I just finished a Kryton with a 638nm and this same lens you used but am having a problem getting it to focus. The focus knob on the Kryton is so deep that very little threading is left exposed to screw into the top/heat sink so it wont focus into a tight beam/dot. I flipped the lens around to see if maybe I installed it backwards but that's not the problem. I am wondering if you encountered this and if so what did you do to correct it.
Should I put a small washer down into the focus knob hole so the lens doesn't bottom out so deep leaving more threads available to screw into the heat sink?

Click to expand...

Yes, I had a hard time with that too. Honestly, what I did was put some Teflon tape on the lens barrel and screw it into the Kryton Groove Head FIRST, and then screwed the focus nob on. It does change focus when I turn the nob gently, but I don't really know of a permanent/fail-safe method.
Sorry I can't help more.

Nice build and informative write upMattronium! +3

The teflon tape method is the best. I add a few layers of tape to the part to be threaded in, and then using cardboard to protect the lens barrel threading, I screw it in with a pair of pliers. It should be tight, but not difficult to screw in. If you do this properly the lens will not turn when you adjust the focus and you can remove it later if wished.

If you wanted a more permanent solution you can screw the lens in to the correct depth (ie infinity) and then add one tiny drop of super glue to the join between the lens barrel and the focus adapter. This is difficult to remove and so more or less permanent. If you want to swap it out later youll have to carefully break it out with a vice and gentle twisting.

Please note: If you use the latter method let the superglue dry on the join outside of the laser. You dont want the fumes messing with the lens, or diode window.

Edit: Sorry Im going to have to spread some...