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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Dual LOC project w/PBS cube

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I'm pretty sure the PHR sled has a 5mm PBS cube, but you should ask sellers which have more experience on cubes than me.

If the idea above is somewhat confusing let me know and I'll make a quick drawing in mspaint to make my point understandable.

Please do, so I can get a better idea.
 





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Please do, so I can get a better idea.

There you go (quick drawing, I've gotta get back to studying):

2uj35eb.jpg


You can make the threaded lens holders larger than the lens nuts so you can sit the mirror & PBS cube flush with the heatsink surface.
 
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Beautiful....I like it .

I will make the mount this weekend.
I have plenty of coated mirrors for red.
 

3zuli

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nice...
btw I feel that there was a member which did this, but he combined first about 20 LOCs, and then 50 LOCs, so he got few watts of red... I'm right?
 
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There you go (quick drawing, I've gotta get back to studying):

2uj35eb.jpg


You can make the threaded lens holders larger than the lens nuts so you can sit the mirror & PBS cube flush with the heatsink surface.

You know ,
looking at the picture...
it might not work so well, the beams are at a different distance from the cube. The beam on the left is going to diverge so much before it reaches the cube, that half its power will be dispersed.

Let's think of a better way.
 
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I could make 2 plates 5mm thick, one diode is pressed in the front plate, the other diode is pressed in the back plate, so that will give us 5 to 6mm extra distance from the cube for the first diode, and equalize the difference. Then machine a nice round aluminum front plate for the host that will take the aixiz module, but I will cut the back end of the lens housing where the diode is normally pressed in, I just need the threaded portion, so I can then screw in the lens .
 
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I could make 2 plates 5mm thick, one diode is pressed in the front plate, the other diode is pressed in the back plate, so that will give us 5 to 6mm extra distance from the cube for the first diode, and equalize the difference. Then machine a nice round aluminum front plate for the host that will take the aixiz module, but I will cut the back end of the lens housing where the diode is normally pressed in, I just need the threaded portion, so I can then screw in the lens .

I have two solutions, one is similar to what you said. I can't draw it right now or else I'll fail the test tomorrow :p

I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
 
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I can't draw it either now, because Italy's team (the world champions) just scored against sweeden and we are just all over them hahahaha.
 
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For the sake of experimentation,
I took one of the reds out, and added a phr (de-canned) diode,
and I got a pretty crimson purple beam.

So it does look like it can combine different wavelenths.
 
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:) Of course you can. But you usually do that trough a dichro.
Combining Red, Green and Blue should give you (assuming you got the right balance 2(R):1(G):4(B)) a stunning white light :) take a look at the scanning section and you will be screaming for it :)

The best "pointing" example is the 7 colour project. Best pointing device i've ssen so far.

-Stephan
 

HIMNL9

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You don't need to put diodes close to the cube, if you use collimated beams ..... just collimate them exactly equal, and the distance from the cube become ininfluent (only remember the polarization, one must be vertical and the other horizontal)

If you try to use the bare diodes without focus them before, the result is worse (some more light lost at the borders, and also you need to keep them practically in contact with the cube, and the same also for the collimation lens)

So, the asembly suggested you from Niko will be ok, as you see, it also have the space for the lens nuts ..... just put the diodes in the right polarization plane, focus them for the same distance, then add and align the cube and the FS mirror ;) ..... i only suggest Niko a modification, to use threaded tubes for keep in place the diodes, instead press-fit them, first cause so is more easy to change them if accidents happens :p, and second, so is more easy to rotate them for get the better polarization plane position, before fit them (and a careful made fit like that, is also more efficent in thermal dissipation :)).

BTW, Niko ..... You can combine different wavelenght, if you want, if the cube coating is broadband, the only thing to respect is that one must be polarized horizontally, and the other vertically :)
 

Benm

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If you want to combine 405 and 650, you can use the cube from the PHR sled, its intended to do exactly that, and comes 'free' with the sled.

Cool project btw, i still want to do one like this, possibly with the diodes TEC'd for maximum performance. Too bad alignment is so difficult - i would probably have to improvise some system that allows some freedom in position the modules and cube before i get started on it.

Could you post some pictures of your current setup? The resulting beam looks fine, but i'm curious what it looks like up close.
 
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I only have a pic from yesterday, as I already dismantled the whole thing, it's way too cumbersome and useless for my taste.

I learned a lot from this, and how a pain in the butt it was to align.

I used shims under the lasers' beds to raise them, then glued the lasers with a couple drops of epoxy.

I see now that Niko's sketch is very good, because the beams are already collimated, I didn't see that yesterday....

I hope this picture will show what I did.
 

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I only have a pic from yesterday, as I already dismantled the whole thing, it's way too cumbersome and useless for my taste.

I learned a lot from this, and how a pain in the butt it was to align.

I used shims under the lasers' beds to raise them, then glued the lasers with a couple drops of epoxy.

I see now that Niko's sketch is very good, because the beams are already collimated, I didn't see that yesterday....

I hope this picture will show what I did.

I have the exam today, when I come back I'll expand on the drawing. :)
 
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Since you will expand on the drawing,

consider that I have to work with 5mm aluminum sheet, because that's what I have in abundance......
Therefore I can make 2-3 layers if needed, and pieces can be made to fit with each other.
The diodes will have to be pressed in, because I don't have a lathe, just a cnc mill/router
 




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