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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Driver not putting out full power

Joined
Mar 5, 2012
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161
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Im using a Mitsubishi ML101U29 diode with a adjustable x-driver.

This is not in a host except built on a bread board and powered by a 12v wall power supply.

Everything is soldered for the best contact.

Driver has been tested with a load and is putting out .200ma which is what i wanted it set at.

12v going into the driver, and 12v coming out of the driver when no diode connected.

BEFORE when I connected the diode, it was putting out about 7v but now its only a little over 2v.

Did I short my driver or whats going on?
The laser diode is coming on but not to its full potential.
 
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oahu99

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How do you know it's not reaching "it's full potential"?
Do you have an lpm to measure the output of the diode?
Also not all diodes reach the same power level, even the same model of diode.
Sounds like everything is working fine to me, the voltage is supposed to drop because the diodes are voltage limiting devices, they only draw as much voltage add they need.
Hope I've helped.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
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How do you know it's not reaching "it's full potential"?
Do you have an lpm to measure the output of the diode?
Also not all diodes reach the same power level, even the same model of diode.
Sounds like everything is working fine to me, the voltage is supposed to drop because the diodes are voltage limiting devices, they only draw as much voltage add they need.
Hope I've helped.

I know this because the first couple I tried were very bright and the voltage drop was from 12v to about 7v.

The last couple ive tried are very dim and the drop is from 12v to about 2v.

So I know these are suppose to be alot brighter.
 
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You need to make connections to the load with the driver off. If you connected the diode while the drive was turned on, you've killed your laser diode. Laser drivers operate in constant current, so you can ignore the voltage of the load for the most part.
 
Joined
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Messages
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You need to make connections to the load with the driver off. If you connected the diode while the drive was turned on, you've killed your laser diode. Laser drivers operate in constant current, so you can ignore the voltage of the load for the most part.

I know this.

The driver was tested without a diode because the test load simulates the diode.

The diode was not connected to the driver while the driver was on.
 
Joined
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A test load only simulates a laser diode if you set it up properly. You were using too many diodes in series if it was dropping 7V. If you want to simulate a 2-3V diode, you don't set your test load at 7V.

If the driver is outputting 200mA, and the laser output is very dim, then your laser diode is dead. If it's just "dimmer than you expected," then that's probably normal.
 

rhd

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"12v going into the driver, and 12v coming out of the driver when no diode connected."

This tells me that you were powering up your driver without a load or test load attached. I'm guessing you just attached a volt meter to the output and powered it up - I can't think of any other explanation for the statement.

You may have damaged your driver.
 
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Now there's your problem. 0.200mA = 0.0002A = 200micro amperes.

Thats not my problem because the diode calls for 200ma

"12v going into the driver, and 12v coming out of the driver when no diode connected."

This tells me that you were powering up your driver without a load or test load attached. I'm guessing you just attached a volt meter to the output and powered it up - I can't think of any other explanation for the statement.

You may have damaged your driver.

I did this with a test load attached

A test load only simulates a laser diode if you set it up properly. You were using too many diodes in series if it was dropping 7V. If you want to simulate a 2-3V diode, you don't set your test load at 7V.

If the driver is outputting 200mA, and the laser output is very dim, then your laser diode is dead. If it's just "dimmer than you expected," then that's probably normal.

I attached a image of the pin settings for the test load. I have the pin at 3.
 

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Zeebit

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If the test load is at setting 3, then there is no way there can be more than 3V across the
output. Even if there was your "low" figure of 7V, the diodes would be getting so hot they
would be smoking. In that case, the driver would have to be putting out over 4A and
something would end up catching fire.

So let's start back at the beginning. Tell us more about your 12V wall supply.
 
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rhd

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When your test load supposedly dropped 12V, how many diodes was it using?
 
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h7uF3jN.gif


I give up. I can't have a conversation with someone that contradicts himself at every turn.
 
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Ok ill start from the beggining again. I got the x-drive in the mail. Before I hook up any diode I test it with a load. I have one of those load testers from a member who builds and sells them on here.

The driver was set at 200ma. I hooked up my test load and had the jumper pin on the 3rd pin. Everything was working fine. The wall power supply is a 12v power supply. Ive tested 2 diodes with it. Works great. Then all of a sudden the diode that was connected was alot dimmer than before. So I tried 4 other of the same diodes and they were alk the same. All dim.

The driver has not been turned on without a load or a diode.

I just want to know if I shorted the driver somehow so if I need to buy a new one I can
 

rhd

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The driver was set at 200ma. I hooked up my test load and had the jumper pin on the 3rd pin. Everything was working fine. The wall power supply is a 12v power supply. Ive tested 2 diodes with it. Works great. Then all of a sudden the diode that was connected was alot dimmer than before. So I tried 4 other of the same diodes and they were alk the same. All dim.

If you hook the X-Drive up to your test load NOW, and measure the current, is it still supplying 200mA?
 




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