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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Dorcy Jr. Diy RED ... Please help!!!
- Thread starter tone1132
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Kenom
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The reason I scribe the board is to electrically isolate the remainder of the board from the inputs. that way it doesn't short to the board. You can use heatshrinking if you really want. but considering that the pins end off coming out at an angle it won't be very tight. Let me see if I can dig up a picture of the board to show you why i do what I do with the scribing
Here you see the original star. If you look at the connections you have your negative on the top of the picture and the positive in the lower left. Look closely between all the pads were the LED itself is mounted and in between the other side and you will see a line. That line is the trace. by cutting the trace at the green lines indicated in the bottom picture you are isolating the board so that the only place that gets electricity is the - and + connections. thats it. Look at it as cutting a wire. cept the wire is part of the board.
Here you see the original star. If you look at the connections you have your negative on the top of the picture and the positive in the lower left. Look closely between all the pads were the LED itself is mounted and in between the other side and you will see a line. That line is the trace. by cutting the trace at the green lines indicated in the bottom picture you are isolating the board so that the only place that gets electricity is the - and + connections. thats it. Look at it as cutting a wire. cept the wire is part of the board.
Kenom
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Not a problem. Your not the only one that had a hard time understanding this one. I tried to be as clear as I could in the walkthrough. apparently FAILED!! lol
Kenom
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ya know I've tried it with an open can and every single time I have with the exception of once I've fried them. the problem is the assumption is that since it's an open can that it will survive the extra current that this driver puts out. Well, with working with dr. lava, we came to the assumption that there is an initial spike when you first turn this on without any additional resistors that is waaay more than even an open can can handle. Someone with a O-scope should hook it up and read it... I'm curious how much..
Kenom
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I had to use a 1 ohm resistor in there and it's running at roughly 180mw
cbrian4
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Kenom said:
What if you put two 1 ohms in parallel to drop it to .5ohms resistance?
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I'm working on my dorcy now and am having a hard time de-soldering the original LED on the board. any tips on getting it off???
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
There is a little dab of glue under the LED. Grab one of the led cotacts with tweezers while heating up the solder to move the contact up and away from the solder. Next pry that little bastard off and it should pop up, it will still be connected by the other contact, then just desolder the other and there you go! The reason I desolder one contact, pry, then desolder the other, this way to save the LED from flying off somewhere and losing it, its still conncted by one contact, so it stays put after prying from the glue. My LEDs still work too.
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ah Ok thanks. i got it off. I got a tip from jake21 to just use pliers and twist it off which worked well, i don't want the LED so this tactic works very well 
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got it to work out, has a really bright dot and works beautifully.
thx for the guide kenom, pretty sweet laser!
thx for the guide kenom, pretty sweet laser!
