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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

The Dilda Family gets longer ...

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This weekend I made a dilda laser based on 2 x 16340 (CR123) lithium. The idea came from the other thread about the 322mw dilda, where Artix and thesk8nmidget were referring to a dilda viagra. So, I figured why not make one ...

The top laser in the photo is "la dilda viagra". It uses 2 x 16340, LM317 regulator at 380 ma, open can diode from DVD burner producing 262 mw. No aixiz housing used, all machined parts. The "business end" is anodized red. This came out wider and longer than the standard dilda.

The next laser is of course the real dilda, the DX200 red. (This one has 210 mw)

Next, we have the mini-dilda. This is a 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (245 mw)

Last, the micro-dilda. Switch is in tailcap. 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (238 mw)
This is just over half the length of the DX dilda.

Bill.

(Power measured on Lasercheck set @ 660nm, measured just prior to photo.)
 

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artix

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;D That thing is way bigger then the original!

Now, the beam shots!
 
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Here are two photos of "la dilda viagra" in action.

First, a beam shot across a dark basement.
 

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Second, some tape burning.
 

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Switch

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LOL!! :D it just looks perverted ;D The button looks just like the buttons I made on my builds, how did you make it? :p
 
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Switch - The button is a small hemispherical brass cap I glued to the top of the switch. The switch is a tiny pc board switch salvaged from a dead stereo amp that I scrapped for parts. To make the button, I put a small brass rod in the lathe, rounded the end with a file, and parted it off the rod, leaving me a button.
Yes, this laser has a certain look to it ... long, large red head ... ;D
 
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billg519 said:
This weekend I made a dilda laser based on 2 x 16340 (CR123) lithium. The idea came from the other thread about the 322mw dilda, where Artix and thesk8nmidget were referring to a dilda viagra. So, I figured why not make one ...

The top laser in the photo is "la dilda viagra". It uses 2 x 16340, LM317 regulator at 380 ma, open can diode from DVD burner producing 262 mw. No aixiz housing used, all machined parts. The "business end" is anodized red. This came out wider and longer than the standard dilda.

The next laser is of course the real dilda, the DX200 red. (This one has 210 mw)

Next, we have the mini-dilda. This is a 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (245 mw)

Last, the micro-dilda. Switch is in tailcap. 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (238 mw)
This is just over half the length of the DX dilda.

Bill.

(Power measured on Lasercheck set @ 660nm, measured just prior to photo.)

If I am correct... :-? you ARE using the original RED LD that came with the Dilda....
NOT an open can Red LD like Rattlehead built (the Meg-Dilda) into a Dilda. :-/

If so... that should be mentioned... just for those that still think the Dilda LD is under specs..  ::)

Nice builds.... looks like a complete family... ;D ;D ;D ;D
 

artix

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lasersbee said:
[quote author=billg519 link=1224465471/0#0 date=1224465471]This weekend I made a dilda laser based on 2 x 16340 (CR123) lithium. The idea came from the other thread about the 322mw dilda, where Artix and thesk8nmidget were referring to a dilda viagra. So, I figured why not make one ...

The top laser in the photo is "la dilda viagra". It uses 2 x 16340, LM317 regulator at 380 ma, open can diode from DVD burner producing 262 mw. No aixiz housing used, all machined parts. The "business end" is anodized red. This came out wider and longer than the standard dilda.

The next laser is of course the real dilda, the DX200 red. (This one has 210 mw)

Next, we have the mini-dilda. This is a 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (245 mw)

Last, the micro-dilda. Switch is in tailcap. 1 x 16340, DX 350ma regulator, DVD open can diode. (238 mw)
This is just over half the length of the DX dilda.

Bill.

(Power measured on Lasercheck set @ 660nm, measured just prior to photo.)

If I am correct... :-? you ARE using the original RED LD that came with the Dilda....
NOT an open can Red LD like Rattlehead built (the Meg-Dilda) into a Dilda. :-/

If so... that should be mentioned... just for those that still think the Dilda LD is under specs..  ::)

Nice builds.... looks like a complete family... ;D ;D ;D ;D[/quote]

The dilda LD is the same as an open can except there is a can! So to mod it, well, you only need to raise the current.
 
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lasersbee - I kept my stock dilda, and used a DVD diode (open can LG 20x) for the dilda viagra build. My stock dilda will get warm if run for a while. The large head on the dilda viagra keeps its cool. It may also help that I am not using an aixiz housing, the diode is set directly into the aluminum head, so I get good heat transfer to the aluminum. I also used white heatsink compound to help the heat transfer. This diode keeps its cool.

I've been tempted to change drivers in my real dilda, but I got a really nice, well made one, so I've kept it stock. Maybe I'll get another one from DX (still ships to Canada) and see what it can be made to do. That big closed can diode should be able to give me more ...
 
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I dont think that laser could get more phallic looking if it tried ;D ;D

Nice work as always, bill! :cool: :cool: :cool:
 
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GooeyGus - Yes it does have that phenorbate, protuberent look to it. ;)
Montana64 - Just a bigger dilda ... :)

Thanks for the feedback.

Bill.
 
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laserman55 - as mentioned in the first pot in this thread, I used an LM317 driver for dilda viagra. In the photo I attached to the first post, the two small lasers at the bottom of the photo both use the second DX regulator you mentioned in your post. I bought the sku.3160 350ma 20-pack. The only difficulty (minor) in using them is that they are negative side. If you look carefully at my photo, these two lasers have an insulating ring between the laser body and laser head. Negative side regulators are great for IR diodes like c-mounts or bars because larger IR diodes are usually positive ground. For negative ground red diodes, I either separate the head and body by an insulating ring, or locate the regulator in the tailcap of the laser.
 

Switch

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billg519 said:
laserman55 - as mentioned in the first pot in this thread, I used an LM317 driver for dilda viagra. In the photo I attached to the first post, the two small lasers at the bottom of the photo both use the second DX regulator you mentioned in your post. I bought the sku.3160 350ma 20-pack. The only difficulty (minor) in using them is that they are negative side. If you look carefully at my photo, these two lasers have an insulating ring between the laser body and laser head. Negative side regulators are great for IR diodes like c-mounts or bars because larger IR diodes are usually positive ground. For negative ground red diodes, I either separate the head and body by an insulating ring, or locate the regulator in the tailcap of the laser.
I've been meaning to ask: do these drivers offer enough regulation for diodes, being flashlight regulators and all? :-/
 




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