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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

can i use this for a labby?

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Oct 5, 2012
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hey guys i just found a transformer that is AC to DC ok so input is just normal 120v and the output is 12v (300ma) i wanted to use this for an lpc-826 diode, but my question is how can i make this work with the dc power, can i get modules with DC female at the end? or do i strip the end off and use those wires i have a pic but its terrible quality from webcam (my phone could do a lot better lol :)) but it shouldnt really be needed as i provided info but i have it with me now if anyone has more questions about it. oh and BTW i randomly found it it says barbie on it so i guess it had something to do wit it :D dont worry its not pink with flowers just white ;)

EDIT-pics wont upload :eek: i can redo it later but im not going to post any unless if you guys need/want me too :thanks:, Justin
 
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So what you have is a AC to DC converter. (Doesn't matter if it says barbie does it?)

So you have 12V DC @ 300mA.

What you NEED is a driver that will run the diode at a constant current. I don't know of any drivers capable of running a LPC @ 12V so you'd have to wait for someone else to reply there.

However you can just use the bare wires you have if you want OR you can get a male/female adapter. Your choice really. One thing you have to check is the polarity of that transformer (which wire is + and which one is -).
 

IsaacT

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THIS is what I used for my labby(the first one on the list, product code BE227). It has different tips so I just picked one and tested the polarity using an LED. It allows you to pick the output voltage which helps A TON with heat issues for your driver.

I found mine at Fry's Electronics for 9 bucks i think? It works VERY well.

Hope that helps,
Isaac
 
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Joined
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So what you have is a AC to DC converter. (Doesn't matter if it says barbie does it?)

So you have 12V DC @ 300mA.

What you NEED is a driver that will run the diode at a constant current. I don't know of any drivers capable of running a LPC @ 12V so you'd have to wait for someone else to reply there.

However you can just use the bare wires you have if you want OR you can get a male/female adapter. Your choice really. One thing you have to check is the polarity of that transformer (which wire is + and which one is -).

This is at a constant current isn't it? and it says the polarity on the label but i don't exactly know what it means, so i will post a pic :)
:thanks:

THIS is what I used for my labby(the first one on the list, product code BE227). It has different tips so I just picked one and tested the polarity using an LED. It allows you to pick the output voltage which helps A TON with heat issues for your driver.

I found mine at Fry's Electronics for 9 bucks i think? It works VERY well.

Hope that helps,
Isaac

Thank you, its nice to have someone that did a similar build i want to do ;) and as in tips you mean wires after you cut off the male DC end right?



And just to make sure i am correct whats the min. voltage or recommended volt. for an lpc-826?
:beer: Justin (and o yea thanks for the quick replies, you guys rock! :D)
 

IsaacT

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I used the 4.5V setting. As for tips I mean the adaptor tips that are included. One of them is a standard 9V connector, so instead of chopping the wires up I connected the 9V connector to another 9V connector that had leads(the kind you can get in the battery section of radioshack). You might be able to see the wiring I did in the Thread linked in my signature under "DIY 405nm PHR-805T Lab Style Laser(125mA)". Just click on the "Review" part.
 
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Alright thanks. i will check that out. (another quick reply lol :D)

EDIT-checked out your review :) looks like you had the DC male that came w/ your transformer go into a female DC which then had leads to connect to the diode? i also see you have a DDL driver why is that needed the transformers current isnt constant?
i had this typed for about a half an hour and forgot to post it :yh:
 
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IsaacT

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Output on mine is 500mA max...a bit too much for the PHR I put in....and by a bit i mean a lot....

At any rate, I feel comfortable with a driver, since I know how it works and I built it. I have no clue what is inside this transformer or why they quote the numbers they do. Better safe than sorry IMO.
 
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The 300mA rating is the max current it is rated for. It is not constant current. It probably isn't constant voltage either - just rectified filtered AC.

ahh that clears it up thanks :) and the voltage seems like it wouldnt be much of a problem as long as its not too changing that much


So basically i could go with wannaburnstuff's advice and look for one of those or just deal w/ exess heat about how bad is 7-8 volts extra heat wise

And it seems my transformer wouldnt be too bad as it is rated 300ma and that isnt at the max current for diode so i dont think i could damage it technically, just sometimes it will be higher or lower than other times.
Maybe im wrong i mean i am kind of a noob but know more compared to others i think. besides its a $20 (actually less) diode
 

IsaacT

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1. 7-8 Volts will be a LOT of extra heat, especially if you are going straight to the diode. Runtimes would be extremely short.
2. I would recommend going ahead and making a driver for it. Just buy an LM317 Voltage regulator and solder two 10 ohm resistors in parallel across the Adjust and V-out pins. The V-out goes to one of the pins on your diode and the V-in goes to your battery/switch/other wiring stuff.
 
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You can't give the diode 12V. You would destroy the diode before you even see the red light.

If you REALLY insist on going this route I'd suggest using a cellphone charger which outputs around 5V DC at anywhere around a few hundred mA to 1A and picking up a driver for a few $ on here. There are a few really inexpensive options. I'd then use a capacitor to smooth the current. That's about the most DIY you can go about this other than using a lm317.

Hell. I'll build you a lm317 and send it to you for the price of shipping if you want or I can just send you the IC and you can build one yourself.
 
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i do have a small heat sink i could use but i should still probably find something like you have to do a build with this lpc maybe i could use the barbie transformer a different time if i make a build that can use a buck driver (like soj06 or m140)

Hell. I'll build you a lm317 and send it to you for the price of shipping if you want or I can just send you the IC and you can build one yourself.
:eek: maybe a pic (not a schematic) would be enough but :thanks: if i do fail that much i might take you up on that :) but i dont think its too hard.
i know how to calculate what to use and everything but i probably just dont have enough faith in myself :angel:

here is they crappy little heatsink that i bought a while ago that sucks, but i guess could work w/ an lpc or phr
imgres
 
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Well i would probably rather just go with a fixed resistor or maybe add a pot in after i add in maybe half of what i need in fixed and that 1n5 diode or whatever isn't that fir reverse polarity? And capacitor isn't exactly needed but good. t can also be bad if u forget to discharge it in between batt changes i believe.
Sorry for my grammar all the side i switched over to mobile, my wife acting up

EDIT- WIFI not wife lol :crackup:
 
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IsaacT

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All I ever use for an LM317 driver is:

LM317 Voltage Regulator
Resistor(s)
Wire
Heatsink

No extra features but for a cheapie build who needs 'em?
 
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I think you can switch a resistor before the driver so running at 3V how much mA need your driver ?
 




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