Advice about Dvd drivers

Hi, first of all want to said that what a great forum for laser enthusiasts is really complete and full of tutorials. because of that I get very motivated to do my own laser thing. Went to my local store and bought the following dvd burner drivers. I'm posting these photos because i need your advice about this diodes, everything you know about them would be perfect.

Also, saw a video in which the guy says he is grounded. What does it means? do i have to touch something metallic that goes to ground first or what other method?

img383.imageshack.us/img383/1842/laser001ly9.jpg

img139.imageshack.us/img139/9428/laser003ar1.jpg

img71.imageshack.us/img71/5654/laser002ng9.jpg


 The first two links are the back specification of the two Dvd driveers i bought. The third one is about the front view of one of the drivers. Both are Double layer burners.



      Thanks in adnvace, razeman.

**EDIT**: As everybody else here would like to have the best of my diodes, due to that, what kind of driver specification do i need. I've seen the DDL driver from the user Daedal if Im not wrong. Is that one enough to pull >200mW ?

Sorry to be so inquisitive person but I don't really know too much about this and about electronics, mine is programming so, sorry in advance too.

You can run long die open cans at about 420mA, which will give you about 250mw with acrylic lens. Closed cans at about 250 mA. And yes the DDL driver can power any DVD diode. Being grounded just means that you would have a little wrist band that hooks up to you and something metal, it keeps static electricity away. I didn't use one, and my diode works fine, just make sure to discharge yourself every once in a while.

With this on mind, how do I get the 420 mA on the DDL Driver? I connect my multimeter to the driver outputs and move the knob of the pot but the max lecture i get is 200 mA. Maybe is because i don't have a dummy test thing, is that needed?

in DDL's driver is used two parallel 10ohm connected resistors which gives u 5ohm and with them u can get max 230-240 mA but if u replace them with 3 ohm resistor max output will be 416mA.u can count this by your self like this:u should have 1.25 volts between out and adj pin on lm317 and if u divide this with your resistance (in this case 3 ohm) u get current in ampers (0.416A which is 416mA) i use dead LD for testing the driver

You should put a 2.8 ohm resistor for 420 ma.

In the following web page: candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=166188 , in the post that there's a huge image of a laser meter, the guy says he pumped with correct cooling his diode to 400mW, as the meter reads obviously. Could I be able to do this with a 20x and a 22x laser diodes? Implementing the right thermal paste, heatsink and fan?

razeman said:

In the following web page: candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=166188 , in the post that there's a huge image of a laser meter, the guy says he pumped with correct cooling his diode to 400mW, as the meter reads obviously. Could I be able to do this with a 20x and a 22x laser diodes? Implementing the right thermal paste, heatsink and fan?

Click to expand...

I believe that in order to get this extreme output you will have to use more "active" cooling like a TEC unit.

Peace,
dave

TEC unit like this one? -> cgi.ebay.com/1pc-TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-Plate-60W_W0QQitemZ180315086441QQihZ008QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Also, are those ones flexible? I think not, but never seen one in front of me so maybe I might be wrong. Also what other recommendations needed to achieve those outputs?

razeman said:

TEC unit like this one? -> cgi.ebay.com/1pc-TEC1-12706-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-Plate-60W_W0QQitemZ180315086441QQihZ008QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Also, are those ones flexible? I think not, but never seen one in front of me so maybe I might be wrong. Also what other recommendations needed to achieve those outputs?

Click to expand...

The link wouldn't work for me, but a Peltier TEC would be correct.  It doesn't have to be "flexible."  As long as it is mechanically (and thus thermally) connected to the diode's heat sink, the cooling will be effective.

Beyond that, the cooling should NOT be uncontrolled.  You CAN over-cool a diode.  

After that it is simply a matter of increasing the current while controlling the voltage

Peace,
dave

ok, the link is this one, now i can post links!

http://cgi.ebay.com/1pc-TEC1-12706-...oryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



What do you mean with: "Beyond that, the cooling should NOT be uncontrolled. You CAN over-cool a diode. "

So I just need to glue my Aixiz module with thermal paste to the cooling side of the pelt, and voila! 400mW and beyond? :

razeman said:

ok, the link is this one, now i can post links!
http://cgi.ebay.com/1pc-TEC1-12706-...oryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
What do you mean with: "Beyond that, the cooling should NOT be uncontrolled.  You CAN over-cool a diode. "
So I just need to glue my Aixiz module with thermal paste to the cooling side of the pelt, and voila! 400mW and beyond?  :

Click to expand...

That is the "basic" idea.

Re: cooling. Diodes have an optimal operating temperature Cooling it significantly below the operating temperature will cause problems as well as over heating it.

Peace,
dave

Whats the optimal ma to run a Sony 16x diode?