115D harvest

I just bought a 115D to harvest out the diodes and I've gotten this far. Can anyone tell me the best way to take the LD out? I'm still yet to solder off the ribbon cable.
Here is a photo from the back

and one from the front

I learned from Gazoo about harvesting these. (112D, but it's the same thing) You have to carefully cut the heatsink as shown in the picture. I believe Gazoo uses wire cutters, but I'm not sure. I like to carefully conceal the die area by using blue painters tape, then use my dremel with a fine cutting wheel. After cutting the heatsink, you can pry it up enough to get the diode out...
Jay

Thankyou, I've filed it away and got it out, my only worry now is if it got damaged in the process, lol.

Is the positive and negative af the 115D the same as all those I've seen in the forum (negative @ top, positive to the lower left)?
I connected the diode that way to my circuit from yobresal's laser and nothings happened. I think I damaged the diode taking it out. (I also discovered at this point I've lost my focusing lens)
The circuit looks fine and my friend who is electronic savvy says its working fine after probing with the multimeter.
I've ordered a preinstalled from Stonetek, so hopefully that shouldn't be as much of a hassle to install, and then I'll have a lens.

i will be purchasing two of these burner soon the diodes can run in an aixiz case at 300mw with no problem

I wouldn't say no problem.
Depends on how long you expect the diode to last. At 300mw your pushing this one to it's extreme limits. Lava just got done doing a plot on the open cans and based on the plot, 250mw is the sweet spot. He ran it for 24 hours no active cooling (tec) without any hitches.

i know someone who has one of these diodes and runs it at 300mw and he has had no problems so far

Check out these 650nm 350mW+ diodes...

http://cgi.ebay.com/350mW-Burning-L...ryZ14954QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

nvmextc said:

Is the positive and negative af the 115D the same as all those I've seen in the forum (negative @ top, positive to the lower left)?
I connected the diode that way to my circuit from yobresal's laser and nothings happened. I think I damaged the diode taking it out. (I also discovered at this point I've lost my focusing lens)
The circuit looks fine and my friend who is electronic savvy says its working fine after probing with the multimeter.
I've ordered a preinstalled from Stonetek, so hopefully that shouldn't be as much of a hassle to install, and then I'll have a lens.

Click to expand...

These open can diodes connect the same as the Sony/Senkat reds.

We have been running them at 420mA's (3 ohm resistor at the LM317)
This gives you about 250mW's, using an acrylic lens. Or, around 300mW's, using a Meredith glass lens!
From looking at drlava's graph, 380mA's would be a good spot to be too. A 3.3 ohm resistor would put you around there.
Here's a picture of drlava's graph (112D - same thing)...
Jay

Dose the beam shoot straight out? It looks like it shoots out the side.

Can I power one of these with 6V. Using a driver to convert it to (I think 3.2V) correct? And I need to know how many ma's to run off of, for the best life/highest output power. Also what would you recommend for heatsink? Because thats the biggest issue in getting the best life/highest output power. Also what kind of heatsink do you get using an Aixiz Module?

Midknight said:

Dose the beam shoot straight out? It looks like it shoots out the side.

Can I power one of these with 6V. Using a driver to convert it to (I think 3.2V) correct? And I need to know how many ma's to run off of, for the best life/highest output power. Also what would you recommend for heatsink? Because thats the biggest issue in getting the best life/highest output power. Also what kind of heatsink do you get using an Aixiz Module?

Click to expand...

If it shoots out to the side I think you misaligned that crystal with the 2 wires coming off of it.

Midknight said:

Dose the beam shoot straight out? It looks like it shoots out the side.

Can I power one of these with 6V. Using a driver to convert it to (I think 3.2V) correct? And I need to know how many ma's to run off of, for the best life/highest output power. Also what would you recommend for heatsink? Because thats the biggest issue in getting the best life/highest output power. Also what kind of heatsink do you get using an Aixiz Module?

Click to expand...

The beam shoots straight out. I recommend running it with ~420ma's.

The LM317 is no mystery and very easy to work with. The following calculations always apply since it uses 1.25 volts for its reference voltage.

To calculate the resistor needed for a given current, take 1.25 and divide it by the current. So say you want to drive a SenKat diode with 250 ma's. 1.25 divided by .250 = a 5 ohm resistor.

Another way you could do this is to take 1.25 and divide it by the resistance. 1.25 divided by 5 = .250.

Next you will want to calculate the wattage of the resister needed. We know 1/2 watt resistors are common for use with the regulator. But to figure it out, simply take the 1.25 and multiply it times the current. 1.25 times .250 =.3125 watts.

The rule of thumb for the voltage going into the regulator is it should be 3 volts more than the voltage going to the diode. A SenKat diode running at 250ma's will have about 3 volts across it. Therefore a minimum if 6 volts is needed.
I recommend 6 nimh batteries or 2 RCR123's for use with Daedal's driver.

I would suggest ordering an MXDL from DX

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4171

The resistor that is already on the MXDL circuit board should be a 3 ohm resistor. Some have 2.4 ohm resistors. If it comes with a 2.4 ohm resistor you will need to find some 3 ohm resistors.

And a heat sink from Jay.

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202452073/0

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1199846835

Midknight said:

Dose the beam shoot straight out? It looks like it shoots out the side.

Can I power one of these with 6V. Using a driver to convert it to (I think 3.2V) correct? And I need to know how many ma's to run off of, for the best life/highest output power. Also what would you recommend for heatsink? Because thats the biggest issue in getting the best life/highest output power. Also what kind of heatsink do you get using an Aixiz Module?

Click to expand...

I will 'second' everything Gazoo just wrote! This is good advice, he knows what he is talking about. I have learned many a thing, listening to Gazoo. (and others too)
Jay

Gazoo said:

[quote author=Midknight link=1203489333/0#10 date=1203628150]Dose the beam shoot straight out? It looks like it shoots out the side.

Can I power one of these with 6V. Using a driver to convert it to (I think 3.2V) correct? And I need to know how many ma's to run off of, for the best life/highest output power. Also what would you recommend for heatsink? Because thats the biggest issue in getting the best life/highest output power. Also what kind of heatsink do you get using an Aixiz Module?

Click to expand...

The beam shoots straight out. I recommend running it with ~420ma's.

The LM317 is no mystery and very easy to work with. The following calculations always apply since it uses 1.25 volts for its reference voltage.

To calculate the resistor needed for a given current, take 1.25 and divide it by the current. So say you want to drive a SenKat diode with 250 ma's. 1.25 divided by .250 = a 5 ohm resistor.

Another way you could do this is to take 1.25 and divide it by the resistance. 1.25 divided by 5 = .250.

Next you will want to calculate the wattage of the resister needed. We know 1/2 watt resistors are common for use with the regulator. But to figure it out, simply take the 1.25 and multiply it times the current. 1.25 times .250 =.3125 watts.

The rule of thumb for the voltage going into the regulator is it should be 3 volts more than the voltage going to the diode. A SenKat diode running at 250ma's will have about 3 volts across it. Therefore a minimum if 6 volts is needed.
I recommend 6 nimh batteries or 2 RCR123's for use with Daedal's driver.

I would suggest ordering an MXDL from DX

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4171

The resistor that is already on the MXDL circuit board should be a 3 ohm resistor. Some have 2.4 ohm resistors. If it comes with a 2.4 ohm resistor you will need to find some 3 ohm resistors.

And a heat sink from Jay.

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202452073/0

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1199846835
[/quote]

I should tell you I'm putting it in a Sonar II DIY. So my main problem is getting a heat sink to fit in there. And a driver. I have three Sonar DIY's one 210mW Blu Ray one 1000mW 808nm and the ~?mW 650nm And they are all using 5.6mm cans.

So what are you using for a driver with the Blu Ray?