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What to use for the 1000th time?.?

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GSS

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Alcohol or Acetone at it purest for lenses or diode windows?:eek: and best way to apply?
I'm having a hard time with some splash when trying a G2 and G7 on a PLT520B1 at 170mw with a 3 element.
With the 3 element it's tamed pretty much but playing with the G lenses, i'm not getting good beam spec's also on top of that splash, with full consideration on the G2 and 7's specs.
Could it be just how this diode works pushed to 430mah and being a green WL.
I assume the G's are 405 to 450 rated but I tend to not special order WL lenses and swap them from builds once in while.
What would be the better choice if I were to try to clean the diode's window and also thinking of the lenses coating if any would break down?
Pure cotton Q tips? and it would have to dry on its own unless I pick up a air canister.
Ton's of threads but just trying to be more specific and mostly worried about the diode's window:can::)
 
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diachi

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I usually stick to isopropyl alcohol and lens cloths or Q-tips (Sterile Q-tips, not cheap ones, they have glue in them, more on that below). Lab grade only of course, non-lab grade isoprop can leave residue. It'll evaporate right off with the pure stuff. Same goes for acetone, although that'll dissolve acrylic optics. :)

Best solution is First Contact(TM) lens cleaner - although you'd likely need to remove the lens from the barrel in this case - not enough room to maneuver. First Contact isn't cheap but a small kit will last a long time.

https://www.edmundoptics.com/lab-pr...pouches/first-contact-cleaning-solution/3510/

Quote from Sam's FAQ:

For hard-coated (or uncoated) glass optics, you will need the following:

Ultra high purity methanol - gas chromatograph grade or spectroscopic grade.

Ultra high purity acetone - gas chromatograph grade or spectroscopic grade.

For really bad fingerprints, hydrogen peroxide (3%) and high purity laboratory distilled water.

Sterile Throat Swabs in individual packages on wood sticks without glue. Puritan(tm) and Qtips(tm) brands don't seem to have glue when purchased from a pharmacist in sterile form. Unwind the cotton carefully to look for glue. (Have your friendly Pharmacist order you a case - it's cheaper!)

Lens tissue from a lab supplier in sealed envelopes. Using generic photographic tissue is not recommended. When I did a survey of laser refurb techs and light show techs, most recommended the Kodak tissue as it is sold in sealed packs. Many inexpensive tissues have impurities that can scratch soft laser optics.
Click to expand...

Clean compressed air is good for getting dust off, but no good for grease, fingerprints etc.
 
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GSS

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Wow, thats some pricey stuff.
I can deal with the sterile Q tips and was hoping for the purer alcohol or acetone from my local Ace Hardware.
Somewhere like Staple stores should have the compressed air cans for electronic's?
Stupid question? I would think all diode can windows to be glass and no acrylic used no matter the output.?
I just got my first ever reading glasses and wonder if my eye doc's office might help with some stuff, but I can see their faces when I explain its for "laser" optic's:thinking:
It more of a dust issue where I live, till this day I can't figure why we get so much but at least it helps with "beam visibilty":rolleyes:
As far as liquid I think I might go with just the alcohol but would 99% pure do?

diachi, great links and thank you:beer:
 
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steve001

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GSS said:
Alcohol or Acetone at it purest for lenses or diode windows?:eek: and best way to apply?
I'm having a hard time with some splash when trying a G2 and G7 on a PLT520B1 at 170mw with a 3 element.
With the 3 element it's tamed pretty much but playing with the G lenses, i'm not getting good beam spec's also on top of that splash, with full consideration on the G2 and 7's specs.
Could it be just how this diode works pushed to 430mah and being a green WL.
I assume the G's are 405 to 450 rated but I tend to not special order WL lenses and swap them from builds once in while.
What would be the better choice if I were to try to clean the diode's window and also thinking of the lenses coating if any would break down?
Pure cotton Q tips? and it would have to dry on its own unless I pick up a air canister.
Ton's of threads but just trying to be more specific and mostly worried about the diode's window:can::)
Click to expand...

A Google search turns out to be productive thing to do. Try it sometime.
https://www.edmundoptics.com/resources/application-notes/optics/cleaning-optics/

https://www.newport.com/n/how-to-clean-optics
 
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BowtieGuy

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Hi GSS, I've found these special tapered & pointed swabs to work rather well, especially with stubborn debris that is stuck near the edge of the lens.
I have yet to have them do any damage to a lens, although I wouldn't use these on an acrylic lens.

These were originally posted in this thread 'First Polymer Cleaning Question'.


The special swab (bottom) compared to a typical swab for size.

1128c9b8-72fd-4fed-b60e-7e4944f99508_zpso5ewpn7y.jpg
 
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Lifetime17

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Hi GSS,
I f you want compressed air in those cans go to Walmart they are cheap there at 11.00 for 4 cans . Alcohol for lenses and acetone for cleaning up Arctic compound or epoxy.

Rich:)
 
HydroSean

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I would not use anything with fibers like cotton swabs or wipes, they will most likely leave fuzz on your glassware. Just use 99% acetone or 99% methanol and air dry with dust free air.
 
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diachi

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HydroSean said:
I would not use anything with fibers like cotton swabs or wipes, they will most likely leave fuzz on your glassware. Just use 99% acetone or 99% methanol and air dry with dust free air.
Click to expand...

Sterile Throat Swabs in individual packages on wood sticks without glue. Puritan(tm) and Qtips(tm) brands don't seem to have glue when purchased from a pharmacist in sterile form. Unwind the cotton carefully to look for glue. (Have your friendly Pharmacist order you a case - it's cheaper!)

Lens tissue from a lab supplier in sealed envelopes. Using generic photographic tissue is not recommended. When I did a survey of laser refurb techs and light show techs, most recommended the Kodak tissue as it is sold in sealed packs. Many inexpensive tissues have impurities that can scratch soft laser optics.
Click to expand...

They are fine to use, above from Sam's FAQ. Suggested for use with more sensitive optics than the collimating lenses we're using. Pretty sure I'll go with the word of industry experts first...
 
HydroSean

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diachi said:
They are fine to use, above from Sam's FAQ. Suggested for use with more sensitive optics than the collimating lenses we're using. Pretty sure I'll go with the word of industry experts first...
Click to expand...

I was getting the same issue the OP was having with his lens, that watery pool effect. Luckily I work in a very nice laboratory with just about every chemical resource imaginable, so I used about a 50:50 mixture of >99% acetone and methanol and a needle tip bottle then followed up with some grade-A compressed air. It worked like a charm and I didn't run the risk of scratching the lens with cotton or other agents that drag across the glass/polymer surface.
 
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G

GSS

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I think i'm going the the pharmacy route for pure Qtips / alcohol. I'm limited on high end optic's and can't see paying so much for the product out there.
Bowtie those craft store point tips look like a must have , just to have:) and would definitely have near by if I do choose to clean the window can.
All optic links say don't clean if you don't have too, and @dden I have a 2 element somewhere. :thinking:
Still though wonder about this diodes behavior?
 
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BowtieGuy

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Yes, those pointed craft swabs were mentioned just as an alternative to the traditional 'touchless' methods of cleaning lenses and windows, but if you've got some stubborn crap that just won't come off, these will do the trick.
As you say, they are great to have around for many other jobs, I've found that they clean crud out of threads fairly well, and when wet, or soaked with alcohol, they clean up the rosen residue from solder joints real well, since they are so small.
 
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Lifetime17 said:
Hi GSS,
I f you want compressed air in those cans go to Walmart they are cheap there at 11.00 for 4 cans . Alcohol for lenses and acetone for cleaning up Arctic compound or epoxy.

Rich:)
Click to expand...
Not sure what I bought and of course as usual no employee at Walmart was much help.
Only option for caned air was called "Ultra Duster" in the electronics section. It leaves a somewhat wet foam in between blasts of dry air but it evaporates quickly. Haven't tried it on a lens yet. Did I get the right product?
It also has a added bitterant to discourage inhalant abuse:eek: Wondering if this added chemical would ad an oily type substance?
 
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steve001

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GSS said:
Alcohol or Acetone at it purest for lenses or diode windows?:eek: and best way to apply?
I'm having a hard time with some splash when trying a G2 and G7 on a PLT520B1 at 170mw with a 3 element.
With the 3 element it's tamed pretty much but playing with the G lenses, i'm not getting good beam spec's also on top of that splash, with full consideration on the G2 and 7's specs.
Could it be just how this diode works pushed to 430mah and being a green WL.
I assume the G's are 405 to 450 rated but I tend to not special order WL lenses and swap them from builds once in while.
What would be the better choice if I were to try to clean the diode's window and also thinking of the lenses coating if any would break down?
Pure cotton Q tips? and it would have to dry on its own unless I pick up a air canister.
Ton's of threads but just trying to be more specific and mostly worried about the diode's window:can::)
Click to expand...
I believe this thread brought up many ways. I would check YouTube, Google, Edmund
Optics. Quick tip. Don't use isoproply alcohol. It can streak. Methyl alcohol is preferable. Dry nitrogen is also a good way to remove dust. http://laserpointerforums.com/f49/new-way-clean-laser-lens-99877.html
 
G

GSS

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steve001 said:
I believe this thread brought up many ways. I would check YouTube, Google, Edmund
Optics. Quick tip. Don't use isoproply alcohol. It can streak. Methyl alcohol is preferable. Dry nitrogen is also a good way to remove dust. http://laserpointerforums.com/f49/new-way-clean-laser-lens-99877.html
Click to expand...
It did:) I got the basic good pure swab tips, I just went to local stores basicly looking for 99% alcohol which I can't find just yet. I came across the electronics dept and remembered the canned air. I'm just going to have to order online from specialists as some point.
Good thing I didn't try this Ultra Duster on a lens as I spray tested it on a magnifying glass and the foam left some dry hard tiny spots..
 
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steve001

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GSS said:
It did:) I got the basic good pure swab tips, I just went to local stores basicly looking for 99% alcohol which I can't find just yet. I came across the electronics dept and remembered the canned air. I'm just going to have to order online from specialists as some point.
Good thing I didn't try this Ultra Duster on a lens as I spray tested it on a magnifying glass and the foam left some dry hard tiny spots..
Click to expand...

Smooth-on carries Extend-It dry nitrogen. Even anhydrous isopropyl alcohol streaks.
 
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