Collection of Laser Die/Emitter Photos

Decided to create a dedicated thread for members to add laser (diode) emitter/die photos to.

While this thread mainly used to share/view the beauty of the emitter/die of laser diode,
it may also be used as a reference photos to identify some unknown diode, by looking at its emitter/die

Please help this thread by expanding it :beer:
And, here's some of mine:

NUBM05 (and other NUBM** family):














LPC-840:

Good idea... some nice Die photos..

Jerry

Awesome close ups. I've never been able to get anything THAT close, but here's one I took with a cell phone camera of a no-can NUBM07E:



He looks so happy to be a diode!

1.2W 808nm C Mount

IMG_1044 by TwirlyWhirly555, on Flickr

This is a nubm06 @ 2 amps, you can see how the exit point overdrives the microscope camera as well as the rear mirror leakage.

The interesting part is that the exit is a small point on the front of the die.

Great new idea for a thread, good work everyone! Hopefully many more photos to come.:yh:
:kewlpics:

That is one seriously tiny exit area.

I don't know what mag my scope is, maybe 250x, there are 1000x scopes for 15 dollars on ebay and I just ordered one so hopefully I or someone can get a high mileage shot of the front of the emitter and see if any damage is visible.

@RedCowBoy: yeah just like when a 532nm exits the crystal, it's so tiny!


Here is a zombified NUBM44
The substrate beneath the emitter looks burned

Yea, I have seen that black burn at the bottom center of the emitter before, that's probably where it gets damaged as oxygen breaks down.

I have no luck running NUBM44 since my first NUBM44 window get melted,
but if the open can causes burn by oxygen breaks down, then how should we run the NUBM44?
People are getting ~8W-9W, but is it closed can?? as about 7W the window get melted away

I want to buy an NUBM44 again but fear that it may explode/melt again

I have a dozen NUBM44's that are running strong, I have only burned through 1 window and that was from contamination.

What I do is leave a primary lens in (G2) and set to focus at 20-100 feet, then I use either a 6X cyl pair followed by a BE or a 3 element primary followed by a 3X BE, but when I did use just a primary I would not remove it any more than I had to and never while it was still hot, I would let it cool down first.

As long as you keep contamination out and I recommend letting it cool down if hot then you should have no trouble with the window.

The nice thing about using a 3X beam expander after your 3 element is it's a simple set up that really lets you reach out better and it protects the diode because you do all your focusing with the beam expander, I like the 3X that sanwu sells for 60 dollars with the adaptor.

Also I run my NUBM44's @ 4.5 amps, they do well at 4.5 amps.





Interesting is the emitter sits near the edge of the waveguide because the aggressive divergence is vertical in relation to the top of the waveguide sitting horizontal, here's a pic of it on a white table, the emitter is only 1.5 inches above the table top.

Great thread. It seems that driving these NUBM44s close to foldover is causing premature diode death. They are getting pretty cheap now, so maybe changing diodes every so often is not the end of the world. I guess they were never made to produce such high optical powers, though some of this damage could be the result of waste heat. :thinking:

Those are some awesome close-ups gentleman. Very impressive :gj:

Oh this is amazing, I agree.
This is a fabulous thread with amazing images.
Thank you everyone for contributing.
I for one have never seen close ups of how the diodes laze.
Thank you!!

:beer:

BUT... where is the green diode?
We need a green! :anyone:

:lasergun:



@RedCowBoy:
That is some question needs to be answered, why is the beam's fast divergence comes out of emitter at perpendicular from the horizontal of the emitter? :anyone:

If I were home I'd add to the thread, have a nice zoom scope but many thousands of miles away! Great thread, will be looking every time someone posts. I'm wondering why there is a dark spot in the middle of the emitter in the photo RCB posted, can a camera over saturate to the point of making black?