Scanner Build, Help.

Update again.
Okay got a new sound card and dac pre built coming so that should solve my problems.
I want to know how to setting up the lasers so they dont interfere with each other aka the common ground.
I want to mount them in a 1.5x1.5x4.5in block of aluminum but if i do they they will as share a common ground.
Is that a bad thing?
If yes might there be a way around it?
1Could you heat shrink the axis housing and still get it to dissipate enough heat?
2 Super glue that rubber heat transferring material to the housing then install axis modal.
3 Let them share a common ground
i think 2 would be the best way, i am confident that i could wrap it perfectly around the housing and then apply a bit of mineral oil for lubrication and press it into the heat sink.
What are your ideal and suggestions?
The reason i want to use one solid block is it will make sure everything is on the save level and be perfectly parallel.
extracted my 50mw green led shop laser, was a bit of a pain but it went well.
Video for others who dont know how to do it.

For all things scanners start here
Photonlexicon
but other then that it looks like you have a good start but i am unable to help you with the galvos
but most people use the DX usb sound card and their are even how to's on how to do it and most of your sound card drivers i believe will just be ttl as i don't know of any cheap analog set up. but really head over to that forum and they will be able to help you out a lot more then we can here.

Any sound card will provide 16bit analog output. Also, any sound card can be used, but you'll need to determine where the main output capacitors are. The DX card has already been worked out, which is why it's simpler.

Yep looks like i was wrong elektro will know more about the sound card set up then i will... i use FB3 : )

Is there any advice on how to find the right caps? things to look for. or just run a sound file threw a single channel at a time and keep checking the caps till i find it?

Unless you can visually trace the circuit path, you will need an osciloscope and a program that can output a signal to a single channel at a time.

I tried to trace an old Audigy and gave up and bought a DX usb card.
Probing a live card could fry the computer its connected to if you accidentally cause a short.

For the amount of time it'd take you to find the direct DAC outputs on that thing, you'd be better off spending the $18 or whatever and buying a tried and tested card.

Also, I am not sure using that type of soundcard would work with drlavas easylase drivers, as I think it expects to output to USB (Like the easylase)

On your galvo amp board, the large connector labelled with +15, G and -15 is your power input. I do not know the config of your PSU, but I guess +15 should go to +V1, G to G, and -15 to -V. The other +15 G and -15 might be a link so oyu can connect to another amp board without more wires to the PSU? Have a look (or take a pic) of the underside of the galvo amp board where those connectors are, and I may be able to tell you.

FG stands for frame ground, attach that to your MAINS ground. AC1 and 2 is obviously your mains input.

And I am guessing V2 might just be a +5v line or something.

Di4Drive is analog, the little left over bit I assume is just to test for power.

Yes, you can build your own correction amp. You will need to build 5 of these circuits for a RGB projector. The TL072 is a dual opamp, so you can build 2 of these circuits with 1 opamp, meaning you only need 3 opamps for 6 channels:



Reference and drivers etc: EzAudDac Alpha release: Cheap DACing!!

So as for building a correction amp i see the only kit i can find is about 50$
what is the cost to build?
Worth the money for my time?
I think i will go and get the usb sound card. But i hate dx and would rather buy from some other supplier. Any other sellers of that card that are still in the same price range?

The same card can be found on ebay also. External USB 6 Channel 5.1 Sound Card PCI for PC Laptop - eBay (item 180466945239 end time Feb-12-10 19:35:34 PST)

Thanks i have had some bad times with dx and they are not worth the hassle if i can just pick them up else where.

I bought just the board and voltage converter from drlava, and bought the rest o the parts myself. Now I wish I didn't, because it easily cost me $50 alone in potentiometers locally!

I go threw all electronics to get my parts they seem to have great prices.
they are a surplus store.

Do you know if all these parts can be gotten threw digikey?
IF so how might one look up some of them i can find most but i cant find the the d106e and lm7905 (on the lm i found one but it looks different)
Also just to ask a question how much would you have paid for used 15 galvos?
Or what do you think they are worth.
I think this is what i have or at least they look almost 100% the same
K12N Scanner - Technische Kurzinformation - Download - JMlaser Laserdisplay

Been getting parts and thinking a lot.
I have decided to change drivers.
The new driver i have picked out looks a lot simpler and smaller.
http://c4r0.skrzynka.org/_hv/lasers/RGB_DRV.pdf
Has any one used this and shed some light on how it preforms and anything i might want to know before using it?
The N-channel MOS-FET (2SK2098) in the schematics i cant seem to find it for sale is there a more common model number or one that could do the same job?

That driver is for TTL modulation. On Off On Off On Off. Is that really what you want? Probably not.

I suppose that depends if you want to do color mixing to achieve several shades, or are happy with a show with discrete colors.

Analog drivers will be more difficult to build, especially if you want them to be linear. For DPSS thats very tricky to do since there is no linear relation between drive current and light output.

Perhaps driver software will allow you to enter some sort of voltage/power plot in such a case, otherwise its gonna be a lot of electronic work