How to replace ttl modules with analog modules?

Is it easy? What is needed?
Photo of my current layout:
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Im talking about completly replacing the current installed modules and drivers...
Search on ebay for:
500mw 650nm RED laser Diode ANALOG for lightshows
(on iphone cant copy link, but i dont wanna buy that specific model because the extrenly large dot) but it will be something like that.
Replace my modules with something like that.
I have a pt-itrust as control board and a pt-30k galvo system.

Please tell me!

1. Decide on a suitable module you would like to have.
2. This time, make sure they FIT before you buy them.
3. Remove old module.
4. Install new module.
5. ???
6. PROFIT


Aren't you happy now that your projector is finally working?
Why do you want to mess with it again?
Why don't you just stop for a while, relax and enjoy what you already have.

anselm said:

1. Decide on a suitable module you would like to have.
2. This time, make sure they FIT before you buy them.
3. Remove old module.
4. Install new module.
5. ???
6. PROFIT


Aren't you happy now that your projector is finally working?
Why do you want to mess with it again?
Why don't you just stop for a while, relax and enjoy what you already have.

Click to expand...

So its a simple matter of connecting them to the pt-itrust and power?
It can be connected with desame psu where the current drives are attached to?(see photo post 1)

I am very happy with it the way it is, but im always looking into the future.
First im going to purchase a dac, and the next analog modules will be something to install later.
But maybe late this month im going to use a analog blue laser driver.(its currently hooked up to the old 405nm driver therefore ttl, but i got the analog driver saved in a case...)
So if thats easy to switch i am probaly going to do that after i got my dac and played a bit with it.

Space is not a really big concern anymore...the size of my flightcase is huge.
But i will ask before i buy
That is, if you mean dimensions with fitting.
Or did you ment something else with that?^^

You will probably need to bypass the itrust controller once you have a dac (do a test first) otherwise you will be unpleasantly surprised that most DMX controllers can only do TTL, so your upgrade wont work until you completly bypass the itrust controller.

Running the rig from the dac will give full analogue control; but this is where you may come unstuck - many dmx controllers "passthru's" are not complete passthroughs, and interpret the signal as a TTL one.

All you guys have beaten me to working projectors - I'm still saving for my big green laser

vk2fro said:

You will probably need to bypass the itrust controller once you have a dac (do a test first) otherwise you will be unpleasantly surprised that most DMX controllers can only do TTL, so your upgrade wont work until you completly bypass the itrust controller.

Running the rig from the dac will give full analogue control; but this is where you may come unstuck - many dmx controllers "passthru's" are not complete passthroughs, and interpret the signal as a TTL one.

All you guys have beaten me to working projectors - I'm still saving for my big green laser

Click to expand...

haha i may have beaten you in time but you are way more pro, you will make something way nicer then i have now

I dont know if the itrust can do analog...the analog driver with the blue module is a flexmod P3.
I'l ask the guy who sold the module to me, he also got a itrust.
but i'd like more experiences with this if there are guys?

Thanks

Once you get your dac, you can hook it up and have it put out a 2/3 power beam of any colour you choose (lets pick blue since you have an analogue laser for this colour, for example). With the laser disconnected, put a multimeter across the + and - of the modulation after it leaves the itrust for the colour chosen. If it reads 5V, its doing TTL. if its reading around 3.75volts, its doing analogue. You can verify this by having the software put out a lower power say 1/2 or 1/3. The voltage will be lower.

This is easier to test with an o-scope - you can put the scope across the modulation lines set to 5V range, and a reasonably fast speed (forgotten what its called). Set the software to make a laser beam that rises and falls in brightness slowly. The line on the scope will move up and down in syncronisation with the power level the software is commanding the laser to put out.

Of course these are all technical tests. You can simply hook up your blue laser, and have the software do the rise/fall power test - the brightness of the beam will rise and fall from off to full power with analogue, and if the beam comes on and off at full/no power the itrust is only putting out TTL.

alright thanks il try to install it soon then.
it doesnt matter if 2 lasers are TTL and one is analogue?
It doesnt give errors or weird stuff happening? (exept ofcource in the image of the projector not showing fades in/out on red and green)

Thanks again

no, your shows will simply look wierd. blank spots where colours should be - basically anything that requires a full power red or green and a varying power blue will show up, but anything that requires a less powerful green or blue may show as the wrong colour, or not at all, or as blue (since your laser with analogue is a blue one).

Your software needs to be told which way it needs to modulate the lasers - TTL or analogue.

You cannot harm a TTL laser by modulating it with an analogue signal - it will simply interpret any voltage below a certain threshold as off, and anything above that as on.

I just saw spagetti supports one laser on analog and others on ttl.

But what if i upgrade the modules to higher output....wont i need a better psu then?
The current one feeding the laser drivers is 7-12v....
Or wont it matter

Thanks

You will need to add up the current draw of all the new lasers (provided they dont come with mains drivers themselves, in which case, omit them from your addition) and get a power supply that is 1.5x the total current draw (e.g. if your blue and green laser both together draw 3 amps, get a 4 amp power supply. I left the red out as an example - lets assume thats your first mains powered module.

If your red, blue and green draw 6 amps all up, get an 8 amp one. This covers you for any peaks in power, and prevents having the supply running at its limits every time your produce full power white. This example shows you have no mains powered modules, and are running them all off the one supply.

I just got the reinforcing rails in my case and played with the positioning of my optical train using the little greenie as a guide. I'm guessing its going to be a tight squeeze inside this box, but I reckon if I hide the blue lasers psu under the amps, it'll all fit in