First scanner build (eventual tutorial)

UPDATED Galvos arrived.

i hope this isn't poor etiquette... Purposely making a non-finished thread.
but here I go any way...:na:

I am building my first scanner. I have decided that beam shows are what i am into. so after a lot of reading I have decided that 20k galvos are just what i need.
I know it is more difficult but i am going for RGB
i was convinced to go anolog for color mixing



Parts I already have:
red module set at 420ma, need 1 more, and a pbs cube.
parts to make blue module
green module. ordered 9/30/10 i ordered the one elektrofreak posted from ebay. i got the 150mw with anolog driver
dicros from casio projector
aluminum attache case for housing
Flex Mods ordered on Sept 21. 2010. ARRIVED.
Bare amp pc board ordered sept 23 2010.. ARRIVED
Galvos ordered Sept 23 2010. 110usd total includes: Arrived. package was in great shape. customer service at Phenix is awesome!!! i recieved all parts as described on their website.
now i hope i don't get impatient durnig the build and F everything up LoL.
ok, i have and/or ordered all parts now except for an aluminum table, 2nd red loc. and pbs.
waiting on dx to ship my usb sound card.
2glavos 20k
2 spare mirrors
2 amps
all connecting wires
psu
mount for galvos

I will be using this link for my sound card DAC and amp: Elektrofreak is a genius!!!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f47/sound-card-dac-tutorial-40569.html
and go to this link to get all parts needed to build your dr.lava amp. big thanks to Paulzimm for gathering all the info on parts
http://laserpointerforums.com/f47/sound-card-dac-tutorial-40569-4.html#post789260


the table will be 1/4" thick aluminum plate, all mounts and mounting rails i am going to make my self.


Please add to this to parts or help you feel i am lacking. i won't be bumping this thread until i actually start assembly.

michael.

A analog driver can be built using analog parts if you want, no need to stick to TTL.

Colour mixing and gradients is one of the coolest effects in beamshows IMO.

lets say i made a ddl for each module. could they be controlled anolog or ttl? to be honest, in what i've read it seemed easier to go ttl (just buy a ttl compatible driver) but i am interested in using home made ddL's if possible.


michael

DDL isn't suitable for anything other than CW always-on use. You'll want to buy a premade driver that supplies analog modulation capability.. if there was ever some advice to give, it's that you really, really, REALLY want to go with analog. If you go all TTL with a full-color system you'll always regret it. Trust me. It's not any more expensive and it doesn't complicate anything. If you're building a red and blue, i recommend drlava's flexmod here. It works basically the same as any pointer driver, with a couple extras connections for modulation.. I swear by them, they're affordable and very capable. They can be modulated much faster than most drivers that come with commercial lasers.

FYI there are inexpensive analog green lasers here. One of these with a dual-red LOC driven by a flexmod and just one 445nm Casio diode running around 600-750mW (also on a flexmod) will make a very decent homebrew RGB setup..

WOW - I have always wanted to do something like this. Thanks for the information, you have pointed me in the right direction. I am seriously looking forward to your updates.

Question: How much do the phenix technologies 20k galvos cost? Just curious, thanks!

those are great links Pat. i will order those flexmods and that green module soon.

i didnt want to complicate things but it seems for anything decent in RGB i will have to run dual reds =(

chipdouglas said:

those are great links Pat. i will order those flexmods and that green module soon.

i didnt want to complicate things but it seems for anything decent in RGB i will have to run dual reds =(

Click to expand...

you will not regret going with the flexmods, analog is really the only way to go

i will also back up that flexmod statement. i have a few smaller rgbs under my belt and am in progress on two different new BEASTS. im looking forward to seeing how this turns out for you!

ElektroFreak said:

DDL isn't suitable for anything other than CW always-on use.

FYI there are inexpensive analog green lasers here. One of these with a dual-red LOC driven by a flexmod...

Click to expand...

Question: What does DDL and LOC stand for? Just trying to get the terminology down. Thanks in advance...

EDIT: Found out that LOC = Long Open Can (like the 250mW LPC-815 red laser diode)

paulzimm said:

Question: What does DDL and LOC stand for? Just trying to get the terminology down. Thanks in advance...

EDIT: Found out that LOC = Long Open Can (like the 250mW LPC-815 red laser diode)

Click to expand...

Direct Drive Linear (driver) useless in scanner application adn yeah LOC, you got it hah.

pm me if you have any questions, i build these b!tches.

paulzimm,
Here is a good bookmark:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/acronyms-forum-42167.html

You guys rock - thank you!

I just made a leap of faith and ordered the following items:
Galvo(scanning) system ILDA20K max35k for Laser systems - eBay (item 290475009457 end time Oct-12-10 18:16:26 PDT)
150MW Green Laser Diode DIY DPSS Module + Power Analog - eBay (item 230514268394 end time Sep-20-10 03:43:04 PDT)
DealExtreme: $17.16 C-Media CM106 USB 2.0 External Sound Card Box with 7.1-Speaker SPDIF Optical Output

More to follow

well your off to a good start it seems

now all you need is a dual loc with a flexmod and a 445 module with a flexmod, some optics and you'll have yourself a nice little RGB rig

I thought the same thing about TTL blanking and agree --I will go now w/ analoge rather than regret the ttl later-thanks EF and all other for helping us Projector noobs==you re the greatest!!!

flecom said:

well your off to a good start it seems

now all you need is a dual loc with a flexmod and a 445 module with a flexmod, some optics and you'll have yourself a nice little RGB rig

Click to expand...

Thanks flecom, I have to admit that you are a MAJOR reason as to why I am attempting to complete this project. I showed my girlfriend the pictures and videos from your 5 Watt RGB projector and we were both blown away! I am a computer programmer by trade and I think that creating a DIY scanner is the perfect hobby for me

QUESTION: If you look at the photos I uploaded, you will see that the (el cheapo) SpaceLas 20K galvos have a 3-wire plug that will connect to my custom sound card DAC / correction amp. The only problem I see is that the correction amp only has TWO connections each for the X/Y galvos. Do I just use the IN+ and IN- on the galvo board or do I have to do something else? I read somewhere that I may need to connect a 4.7 kilo Ohm resistor to the ground. What ground, on the galvo or on the correction amp? I am not sure what to do here, all the galvos I have seen use 3-wires so I am sure someone has dealt with this issue before.

* As you can see from the last attached photo, I already have two heatsinked LOC red diodes and at 1 watt 445 diode ready to go. For now I am going to just get the 532nm going from my newly aquired +150mW analog before I purchase the dichros and PBS cubes for a full RBG scanner.

The correction amp was just purchased from Dr. Lava and I plan to upgrade the 9V DC-DC converter with one that supplies 12-15VDC which will (supposedly) improve the scan angles:
NKA0512SC Murata Power Solutions DC/DC Converters & Regulators

Any hints, tips, tricks will be greatly appreciated!

EDIT - Link to the documention for my SpaceLas PT-20K Galvos:
http://zimmtech.net/SpaceLasPT-20K.pdf