First projector help.

Hello everybody, I'm in the process of building my first projector and slowly accumulating parts,

So far I have:
15k scanner & glavos
RIYA Lite DAC
LSX Software (Lite)

Soon to get:
445 ~1.5W made with a flexmod p3
532 200mW with analog modulation
Unknown red. Suggestions?
dichro mounts.

Now I have a few questions

1. So a while ago I harvested a 445 projector, and I have some dichro's that came from that, but neither of them reflect my 445, why is this?

2. What sort of platform should I use for my projector? I was looking at the aluminum basses but they are VERY expensive, would mdf wood work fine? If not is there cheaper options?

3. What type of red should I get to balance out my my other lasers?

4. ATM my scanner only supports TTL, but I should by lasers with analogue for when I upgrade?

5. Is there anything else I am missing?

6. Any suggestions for a noobie?

Thanks everyone!

bhwollen said:

1. So a while ago I harvested a 445 projector, and I have some dichro's that came from that, but neither of them reflect my 445, why is this?

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It's probably reflecting the other colors instead, and the blue just passes through.

2. What sort of platform should I use for my projector? I was looking at the aluminum basses but they are VERY expensive, would mdf wood work fine? If not is there cheaper options?

Click to expand...

The whole system is going to be expensive, and you shouldn't spoil the broth with one cheap ingredient. The aluminum baseboard is there to provide a stiff substrate to mount your optical elements to, and to provide heatsinking. MDF and wood will bend and twist, and insulate heat which is not good. You can use MDF for the walls of the enclosure, but you'll want a metal base to mount your stuff to.

Buy a plate of aluminum and drill out the holes where you need them. It'll cost you about $100 for 16"x16"x0.5" of aluminum cast plate (not including shipping), which is not that much, considering the price of your other components like adjustable mirrors. Get a drill and tapping set and you'll be set.

3. What type of red should I get to balance out my my other lasers?

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I would knife-edge combine standard 660nm reds into a more powerful beam. You can also buy 635nm lasers, but they sound like they're out of your budget.

4. ATM my scanner only supports TTL, but I should by lasers with analogue for when I upgrade?

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Yes, because they're usually not that much more, and you can usually just build drivers that will do it anyway for your homebrew lasers.

5. Is there anything else I am missing?

6. Any suggestions for a noobie?

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Do you have adjustable mirror mounts for beam combining?

Try building a test setup first before you invest too much in other equipment.

Thanks, I actually posted this on PL too and got a LOT of help.

2024-T3 Aluminum Plate .250" x 12" x 24" - Alclad | eBay

little cheaper than cut2sizemetals but you want to map out your kit first before you order a baseplate. make sure its all going to fit.

thats plenty big enough. I'll probably buy that.

here are some useful links
http://laserpointerforums.com/f47/first-scanner-build-eventual-tutorial-55349.html

you don't really need this next link but it is a good read none the less
http://laserpointerforums.com/f47/sound-card-dac-tutorial-40569.html

and this next link will help you with your red option
http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/math-help-running-2-lds-series-65315.html

and this last link, i actually just discovered tonight lol. but it will help you with your cas dichro question
http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/casio-dichro-figures-53597.html

For my red I will probably be ordering a labby from CNI.

And I already saw that thread yesterday. Thanks to adrian showing it to me.

whatsupadrian said:

2024-T3 Aluminum Plate .250" x 12" x 24" - Alclad | eBay

little cheaper than cut2sizemetals but you want to map out your kit first before you order a baseplate. make sure its all going to fit.

Click to expand...

Yeah, that's quite a bit cheaper, though I don't know about that 0.25" thickness. The alloy might make up for it though.

Over on PL they recommended 6-12mm and this is just over 6, so it should be good. I was also looking into making a full plexiglass case with a removable top so this just drops right in but the walls are the same size. What do you think? Also, how do you think is the best way to cut holes in plexiglass?

bhwollen said:

Over on PL they recommended 6-12mm and this is just over 6, so it should be good. I was also looking into making a full plexiglass case with a removable top so this just drops right in but the walls are the same size. What do you think? Also, how do you think is the best way to cut holes in plexiglass?

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Use a hole saw or a router to cut the holes.

any jig saw will work. but don't use a blade with teeth that are too fine. or you will start melting it. also put tape on both sides of where you are cutting.

michael.

This is a really basic question, but I'm going to ask it just the same

If you're combining three colors, and decide you want to use 405 instead of 445, for the better beam specs, do you lose the ability to produce a nice vibrant blue?

IE, with 405/532/650 is there a color combination that would make something similar to our typical 445 light?

rhd said:

This is a really basic question, but I'm going to ask it just the same

If you're combining three colors, and decide you want to use 405 instead of 445, for the better beam specs, do you lose the ability to produce a nice vibrant blue?

IE, with 405/532/650 is there a color combination that would make something similar to our typical 445 light?

Click to expand...

Sorta. If someone went with 405 I imagine they would also get a 473 laser as well

Sorta. If someone went with 405 I imagine they would also get a 473 laser as well

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In other words, much chapter to simply use corrective optics to fix the 445...

back before the 445s came out 405 were very common and everybody seemed happy. but i guess they were happy because it was their only affordable option.

elektrofreak is super happy with the 445's i think he uses them in all of his projectors.

michael.

I doubt a jigsaw would work very well as I want very nicely cut holes.