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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

First laser scanner

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carmangary

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Get a piece of melanine (particle board with a smooth coating) and do you layout. You can buy pieces at home depot in the lumber section. I suggest melanine because the coating keeps it dust free and very smooth. You can mount everything on it with simple wood screws until you are happy and then use it as a template for a metal plate.
 





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The_Muffin_Man

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carmangary said:
Get a piece of melanine (particle board with a smooth coating) and do you layout. You can buy pieces at home depot in the lumber section. I suggest melanine because the coating keeps it dust free and very smooth. You can mount everything on it with simple wood screws until you are happy and then use it as a template for a metal plate.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I live really close to a home depot so ill go there soon.

Custom Box Order Form

Custom cases. Ill get one made for a RGY. How can i bolt things to the case so it wont show on the outside of the case? Do i need a seperate sheet of aluminum in the case?

Thanks guys!
 
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ElektroFreak

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I recommend bolting the lasers to at least 1/4" aluminum plate. It helps with temperature control which helps keep the laser(s) stable.
 
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The_Muffin_Man

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Got it. Would 18X12X6 (inches) be good dimensions for a box for a RGY? I dont want it to be cramped.

Do the walls of the box need to be a certain thickeness? Could it be 0.08 inches? its not very thick but that is their thickest.

Custom Box Order Form

I could get the "tray style" without a lid and have the bottom be a piece of aluminum of my choice.

How do i keep the bolts from showing on the bottom of the projector?

I also heard that someone had troubles with the soundcard DAC. They hooked it up to their projector and all of the drivers ate the diodes. Are there any other cheap DAC's that work with spaghetti? I know, I know, cheap and DAC dont go in the same sentence together but i was just wondering. It would probably be fine if i tuned the DAC correctly or if someone else did it...Anyone want to? Ill pay shipping/labor ect.

Thanks
 
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ElektroFreak

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The_Muffin_Man said:
I also heard that someone had troubles with the soundcard DAC. They hooked it up to their projector and all of the drivers ate the diodes.
Thanks
Click to expand...


I can tell you that whoever that happened to had no business even taking the battery cover off a TV remote. Unless they plugged the DAC straight into the wall there's no way that happened because of a DAC, soundcard or otherwise. The DAC can only provide +-5V.. That's what's required for TTL and is certainly not enough to hurt the drivers on the lasers.. I wouldn't worry. You're not an idiot. Just read everything that you've been shown about it carefully and you'll be fine.
 
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The_Muffin_Man

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The picture of the 200mW red on o-like is not actually the red that they stock...now i have to go find a 200mW red...I could probably build one but i would rather just buy one...im going to keep looking...
 
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ElektroFreak

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You could easily build one for the cost of a LPC diode, a module, a heatsink, and a drlava flexmod driver. It would then have both TTL and analog modulation. Perfect for a scanner.

Let's do the math:

Long die, open or closed can diode: $10

Aixiz module and glass lens: $10

Heatsink from z-bolt.com: $21 shipped

Flexmod: $40

That's $81 for a 200mW analog-modulated 650nm laser. And you built it yourself. Now that'll make an AWESOME scanner.


But if you'd rather just buy one....
 
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The_Muffin_Man

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I see...I thought the flexmod was only TTL..? EDIT: just checked the page! it also has analogue

What current would give it a nice long life? And what would the duty cycle be like?

Ill probably make the red and get the green from o-like. Based on your review it sounds amazing.

I could probably even add in some violet too! Is it possible to run 2 lasers analogue and 1 TTL? I have heard people run their reds and blues analogue and keep their greens TTL. If you can then i will probably go all out and throw in a violet too!

Thanks
 
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ElektroFreak

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I was skeptical about that little o-like labby, but what i received is very well-built. It's also the cheapest 100mW TEC cooled laser I've found anywhere. That makes it ideal for a small inexpensive scanner..

Running ia long-die at 350mA should be about 200mW with a glass lens.. You'll get a decent life out of it, 3000-5000 hours maybe.. Even if one of those diodes eventually dies, it's really nothing to replace it.

I suppose it's possible to run different modulation types at the same time, but I've never tried it myself. The flexmod supports TTL and analog.
 
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The_Muffin_Man

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You got a good unit right? Isnt it stable at 175mW?

I'm probably going to run it around 400mA. Some people run these at 500mA so 400 should be fine. Which is better: the aixiz glass or the virtual village? I heard the virtual village works really well...does the glass give a smaller beam? If it does ill probably use that...

Ill ask around. Hopefully it is...

How much violet would i need for a nice balance? I probably cant get away with a 120mW violet...i would probably need a 6x for it to look balanced right?

Thanks
 
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ElektroFreak

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It peaks at 175. It runs 150 average. Very stable once it warms up (about 10-15 min.)

I prefer the Aixiz glass. It gives a very clean beam.

I'd go for no less than 200mW of violet. You can adjust the balance in the software.
 
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The_Muffin_Man

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Nice

Yeah i heard the VV one is good too. Ill order the glass when i order the module...

I thought so. Ill do that later...i just want to start with a RGY.

Does it matter how i align the lasers? could i do it like this(the "." are just spacers so the letters will move over..):

G- /......./
.....|R.....|V

I just need to get certain dichros right? sk8 doesnt have any so where would be the next best place to look? LSP?

Thanks
 
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